siteunseen

I was about to pull my hair out trying to find the 9mm wide wipers 18" long. On my way to Walmart I stopped at O'Reilly's. After looking at EVERY 18" they had a young man ask if I needed any help. I explained how I'd have to buy the "dumbed down" wiper assembly and remove the rubber to keep my original look. He went behind the counter and came back with the exact size refills only. Trico 44-180, $6.99 for both! Don't understand why they are hidden but I don't care now that I know. O'Reilly's also has the clear plastic fuel filter for $3.49. They are 240Z friendly. Monday I was about to order the K&N air filter for my 240, $55 at amazon.com. On a whim I called my Nissan parts buddy. This morning he called and said I had an OE filter waiting on me, $15.

Thank you for that. I hate the way the generic UFO looking one I had to get looks. Where did you find that new pump? Do you have a Nissan number? Thanks, Cliff

Here's the part number for those small rivets, 79909-E4100. About $10 at your Nissan dealer for a pack of 10. There's 2 behind the tag and 4 or 6 up top.

Hey that's a good idea! Our SUs have vents on top of the float chambers you could pour gas in somehow I suppose. Could he shoot starter fluid in the mouths of the carbs? Maybe raise the piston a little and open the butterflies with the linkage? You should have a fire extinguisher or a hose pipe ready just in case things get away from you. Maybe buy a low pressure, low price electric fuel pump? I think Purolator has a square one for about $20. I've used them on boat motors.

I use acetone and ATF 50/50 mix in a spray bottle, it works great for me and is inexpensive so you can really soak whatever you're working on. If you'll spray it down real well the night before it almost always works. A quart of each has lasted me 3 years and still counting. Sometimes a good wrap with a hammer will loosen things up so the penetration can work sooner. I've even tightened stuck nuts a little then backed off of them, I think that's nutty sounding but I swear it helps. Oh yeah, don't forget about using a wire brush on the exposed threads too. Also an impact wrench or a drill dialed down will move stuff a little and that's all the acetone & ATF mixture needs to get in there and work. Put a box of band aids close by. I keep 4 in my wallet. I use acetone after the baking soda and water rinse. It dissipates moisture and gives you an extra few minutes before flash rust appears inside the tank before you pour the liner in. Read over this if you're thinking of doing it. It'll help understand the steps you have to do. They are very simple you just need to be prepared, it's kinda time sensitive. That acid will etch it down to bare steel which will lightly rust QUICK. http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

Wick Humble says they're stainless, page 173. If you look at the bottom middle you should see the gap, if you have them. I just did mine with some 0000 steel wool.

Are they similar to the 240 brackets?

Same as mine. But now after a few thousand miles the idle pressure is lower than midway, about a fourth of the gauge, but comes right back up with a little pedal push.

Nice car.

I found my thread, disregard all the shoe talk, we had some laughs on that. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49439-developing-story/ here's where I first got the confidence to try it myself, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm If you need any help just let me know, I've learned some helpful tips like using a leaf blower to dry it out and using the old sending unit to cover that hole while you are sloshing everything around. Baking soda from the Dollar Store and 4 or 5 five gallon buckets etc. Cliff

I've done 2 that make that one look like New Old Stock. It looks very useable to me but I can't see any pin holes that may need welding up? A gallon of muriatic acid and some tank liner would make the inside new again. You'll need to replace all the the evap tank hoses while you're at it. I did a 240 tank a couple of months ago and cost less than $100 and was able to do it in one nice Saturday. Then I let the tank liner cure for a week while I was redoing the hoses and put it all back together the following Saturday. Here's some pictures and the new fuel sending unit from my local Nissan dealer that was only $42 bucks plus a new O ring so about $45 added to the $100 for hoses and clamps and the quart of Red Kote tank liner.

When I rebuilt my 2.8 it had good oil pressure and only got better. It stays 3/4s of the gauge when driving and only drops down at idle. Maybe you could put a vacuum gauge on the brake bung? Part stores loan them out.

That fargin bastage!

I got this this morning, http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-5568-Pro-Timing-Light-Tool/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419644458&sr=8-1&keywords=innova+5568

After I get over this last spending spree I am going to start a new one with you, @240zrubberparts. You have some good stuff.

Or even easier but not a good mouthwash, take the bigger hose off from the fuel filter and give it a good sucking to see if you get fuel up to there. If it comes to there then it's pretty much the fuel pump. It has an arm that works up and down off the front of the cam's nose, like an old push and pull water pump from old western movies. You can remove the valve cover and see it it's broken. It's at the front and works off an off center cup looking thing.

Congratulations! it looks good. I had a similar day myself, merry Christmas to us.

A couple of months ago Tonight

I took the whole day and got them put in without scratching them or myself. The old vs new On the car park lights parking lights with brakes too Part #s for the gaskets and rivets, small and the normal size. My local dealer got everything in a few days.

I would first take the bigger fuel line off the fuel rail in front of the valve cover, straight from the fuel pump and put it in a clear bottle. Then turn it over to see if it's pumping. If it's not you could bypass the fuel tank which most likely is crudded up by taking a 2.5 gallon gas can with some gas and sit it between the radiator and the front grill. Take the fuel line feeding the pump and put it into the gas can, bypassing the cruddy fuel tank. Then put the smaller return line from the fuel rail into the can also. If it pumps then that'll narrow it down to the tank being stopped up. If your getting fuel to the hard fuel lines along the valve cover it could be stopped up carburetor filters or stuck floats or a ton of other stuff. We'd love to figure out what's wrong with your car.

Those floor pans look great. That car has been kept inside, apparently. Is that paint #110 Persimmon Red? I've got that color with white interior. Didn't like it at first but now it's growing on me, the white interior. I had to put a cover over the driver's seat and now I can wrench on it and jump in and drive without changing clothes.

I added mine up a few days ago, $4,500. $2,000 for the car plus $2,417 in receipts so probably $5,000 all told. 1st time to put a price on the best car I've ever owned. I should get it appraised though for legal reasons that may come up someday.

Adjust the slave cylinder where the clutch slips a little. No more THUD. Just kidding. "fackin bolts", that's funny, reminds me of that old Michael Keaton movie "Johnny Dangerously". "You lousy cork-soakers. You have violated my farging rights. Dis somanumbatching country was founded so that the liberties of common patriotic citizens like me could not be taken away by a bunch of fargin iceholes... like yourselves." "You fargin sneaky bastage. I'm gonna take your dwork. I'm gonna nail it to the wall. I'm gonna crush your boils in a meat grinder. I'm gonna cut off your arms. I'm gonna shove 'em up your icehole. Dirty son-a-ma-batches!"

I can get a set of graphites for $410 but without lugs or valve stems so that's not too bad. Nobody else has them yet, "exclusively at Motorsport" There goes another $500. Easy come, easy go.

Finally, black Rewinds. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic05a01/25-1207