siteunseen

$10,500 is pretty cheap. The seller admits he didn't know squat about the car so it was a gamble. I got mine from the same type guy but for $2,000. Back in the good old days, 2015.

The few I've done a telescoping magnet was a big help for the retainers.

The nice paint on the block makes me think it's been rebuilt by someone that cared enough to get the correct color. I'd guess it's most likely a decent motor if it turns freely. $500 minimum IMHO No carbs, $300.

I've removed material off my rockers to weigh the same but if I'm reading that right he's making your's a one off type thing. You'll be a lifelong customer.

You could try one. It would not hurt anything. I had one on a 2 cycle dirt bike that would foul the plug when I didn't keep the RPMs up high enough.

I opened the rad lower drain and put a hoe's pipe in the the top of the radiator. I didn't have my carb linkage stops in the right orientation and as soon as I cranked it shot up to about 3 grand and I shot my pants. You'll have less stress as you're more methodical than me. Good results await you!

Similar to my problem. Could not figure out why it wouldn't hit right off then after pulling my few hairs out I realized the lid screws were loose and the float bowls were evaporating themselves dry. Add another to my simple problems that I over looked. I would be a terrible doctor but the insurance companies would love it.

We'll never know if he's wrong.

I've had similar and it turned out to be the float chamber lids screws were loose. There's 4 on each of mine, Phillips head. They vibrate loose after a whille I suppose if you haven't had them off or anything. Raise the piston on each carb and check for "equally shitty" running. One carb runs 3 cylinders so disabling them one at a time should give you equal crappy running. It'll run but barely. Did the distributor hose come off the front carb? It does sound like extra air being pulled in from somewhere. High rpm is generally a result.

My tach acted up a little here and there but overall it was okay with the stock coil. I read a good bit about them and ended up with the Crane PS20. It's 1.4 ohms which a little higher than the fsm specs, .06 to 1.0. I figured the bigger distributor cap and button could take the extra .04. It has been rock solid since day one. I have a 10 lb-ish aluminum flywheel and that tach needle pops up and down like the stock market. https://www.amazon.com/Crane-Cams-730-0020-PS20-Performance/dp/B000CIO1F0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1401630162&sr=1-1&keywords=crane+ps20+coil#productDetails

You could get a good price on that Boeing Starliner that just came back empty???? The cartels have a new mule. They having a party on the space station.

I am using two long armed lids on my '72's, basically they are 3 screw carbs with the early 4 screw configuration. I put a rear lid and valve on my front carb with great success. From ztherapy.com... The Float Chamber Lids came in three styles. The float pivot points are called ears. They came long or short. All 70 carbs had two long lids. 71-72 had one long, one short (the short one goes on the rear carb). 1969-Jan 1970 float chamber lids were round with 4 tabs for the hold down screws. This is a result of Datsun raiding the parts bin and using leftover 2 litre Roadster parts. The Z 4 screw body IS the 2L roadster body with the vacuum tap moved.

I see it now. It's a clothes dryer!

I'll pay anything, what the hell is it? Some kind of jack?

Make sure your float bowl lids have good gaskets and are tightened down good

Here's some past cover leaks threads. You might read over them and learn something helpful. I know you need to diagram and label the bolts on the water pump and the cover. It's a big mis match of depths and sizes. I recommend using the original fasteners. These after market kits aren't machined as well. And aluminum to steel which is the cover calls for special applications such as lock washer then flat washer under the bolts. https://www.google.com/search?q=front+cover+leaking+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&sca_esv=d0b2727f85f62fcc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=QHHXZta6FYOyptQPzf7ViAo&oq=front+cover+leaking+classiczcars.com+&gs_lp=EhFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocCIlZnJvbnQgY292ZXIgbGVha2luZyBjbGFzc2ljemNhcnMuY29tIDIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKsCMgUQIRirAjIFECEYqwJIkmlQL1i7XHAAeACQAQCYAZkRoAHhSqoBETAuNi42LjQuNi0xLjEuMS4xuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIUoAK5UcICDhAuGIAEGLEDGNEDGMcBwgILEAAYgAQYsQMYgwHCAgUQABiABMICDhAuGIAEGMcBGI4FGK8BwgIREC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYxwEYrwHCAggQABiABBixA8ICCxAuGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIFEC4YgATCAgYQABgWGB7CAggQABgWGB4YD8ICCxAAGIAEGIYDGIoFwgIFECEYnwWYAwCSBxAwLjIuMTAuNC42LTEuMi4xoAfMdQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

I know nothing about pertronix but is it possible the coil wire to the dizzy cap is seated good and tight

Fuel fire and air You have the fuel checked off, it's good. You have the air filter housing off so no restrictions there. You should focus on the fire or electrical now that all 6 are black and sooty. It could be a loose wire since all of the sudden the spark plugs went black. Did it not start running bad all at once? It should have after looking at the before plugs and the newest pictures. Have a good weekend.

There's all kinds of testing you can do, you've missed some and some have missed you but you have gone ahead and shot the parts cannon at it for no reason. There's ways to test the spark at the plug and check resistance at the coil. "We" would like nothing other than your problems resolved and ending this, FYI. It may be as simple as the distributor cap and worn rotor button?

Will Pertronix ignition make the tach twitchy when it's going bad?

I remember Alex having problems with the chokes light staying on and showing him the switch under the console. I wonder, is all that good and tight? Did you ever install the choke handle mount that screws down on the tunnel?

I'll look at both cars tomorrow and take a photo of the condenser if I have one. I switched my 240 and 280 to the ZX distributor and I'm thinking I did away with it? For some reason I think I had to get it gone so my tachometer would work with the ZX dizzy setup. @SteveJ would know what it does and if you need it. He's going to be hard to get though as he just bought one of the new Zs. He bruising bugs I'm sure. 400 hp he's most likely killing them.

The coolant temp sensor wires aren't crossed up are they? The TPS could be out of adjustment too. When I deleted my EGR I remember there was a vacuum line on the bottom of the BCDD that had to connect with the hose coming off the thermal vacuum switch above the warming plate. It was a few odd things I had to figure out before mine ran normal. You mention the 2K rpm. That very easily could be the TPS not coming off idle contact side. I can't post any pics until Saturday sometime. Sorry You can find some good stuff googling "blue's tech tips" look under sub category "efi and fuel"

My apologies for hijacking a post but, Zed Head I finally bought a new laptop! Worlds of difference. Yarb said I was only 10 years behind.