siteunseen

You'll have to get it to idle at about 800 RPM to set it with a light. You could get the basic setting here; http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

You're at the right place, come on in. Find out which # you have, should be E31 or E88 I think. Here's something that might help; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/rally-racing/2935-e31-vs-e88-intake.html

https://www.google.com/webhp?source=search_app#q=weber+32%2F36+tuning

According to their web page Walmart and Tractor Supply have it in my area for a little less than $5 a quart.

Looks like my #305 from the picture so I think it looks great! Can't wait to see the whole car sprayed.

I broke a bolt extractor getting a broken exhaust stud out from under the thermostat housing on the head. A drill bit wouldn't even scratch it so I had to get a bolt welded onto it too then it backed out with the remnants of the old stud with it. A lot of trouble but that's the only way.

Some good news for sure. Take care out there in Texas. Cliff

I sure wish I had the good sense to that! Would've saved me lots of $$$$.

I'll mention something but on tip toes, I personally would throw the MSA header stud kit hex nuts in the trash. Something about them spinning down to easily and no lock washers to keep them from spinning back off. Conical nuts or slightly out of round is what's needed, in MY opinion.

Pull the rear drums off, it's easy, tap them with a hammer if they won't slide off. There is an adjustment for the E-brake that may need loosening/tightening. You may find metal on metal too, worn brake shoes. Mine were a mess when I bought the car. I don't think the previous owner had ever touched the rears. Here's something to read on the door hinge pins and worn out bushing that can let the door drop down and not meet the striker at a level plane. It says ball and socket something or the other but it's actually door hinges Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca)

That's what I read about the Pacesetters, flange doesn't match the intake thickness and they share those four studs in the middle. And Msa's packing guys suck, I had to send mine back after e-mailing pictures of the scratched ceramic coating on the outer most tube, it was sticking out of the box at least a 1/2".

Q: What kind of music do the Pilgrims like? A: Plymouth Rock in a Honda

Fine looking car but what is a "Rare factory driving computer"?

I got the 6 to 1 and their 2.5" Premium Exhaust. Couldn't have bought anything better in my opinion, the look and sound is amazing as is the price, $1,000 or there about. And I'm sorry to say but I threw away the cast iron OE manifold, would have gladly given it to you.

page 194 in "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car", Wick Humble. VIN# HLS30-350001 through 410516 and GHLS30-060001 through 102141. If you don't have the book I'll scan it for you later, I'm at lunch now. The exhaust fitting came loose and the fix was a clip, part # 14741-H8216. Mine is HLS30-355834.

You might get a mirror and look under your intake where the EGR tube couples up. They had a recall on '77's and the PO of mine didn't get the work done and it rotted the bottom out, big old pain in my a$$. I took a Sawz-All and cut the EGR plate off but the hole was too big to weld up so I had to get another intake.

I had to realign the door striker on my 240 to let it close completely. I've seen people do a quick fix with a 2x4 and a floor jack under the door but I'd be scared on these old cars, you might break the weld on the hinges. Your squeaking could be the rear brake drums, mine did it until I replaced them with new ones. Will it squeak when you bounce on the rear bumper? Or is it when the car is moving?

I'd put in one of these after draining the old fuel, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation, there a few dollars at walmart. Then replace the metel can filter in the engine bay, mounted on the passenger's side behind the radiator. Check all the fuel line clamps and the fuel line itself, also make sure all the vacuum lines are good and that the ends aren't cracked. Check the plug ins on the injectors to make sure they're seated and clipped on and clean them too. If you see any green on the copper clean it. Clean all your electrical connections, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html. Hell, do pretty much anything on this page and you'll benefit, Tech Tips. Take your time, things break really easy.

Some of these are relevant.

Post #8 Waking the sleeping beast?

I anxiously await an answer for this question. I bought some kind of bastard N42 intake with the EGR mount and tunnel without the small holes into the runners nor the bigger plugged holes on the bottom side with the 10mm allen fitting. It was half webbed and I spent 2 days with a die grinder & Dremmel cutting that stuff out.

Squirt the crusty stuff with 50/50 Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid over and over for a couple of days. That concoction is the best homemade penetrating oil ever. Maybe then they won't snap off, if they do you'll be in deep dew dew (French words).

I believe it's Gorilla Tape.

I've had a lot of fun in Cartersville. One of my best friends had a Bar B Q restaurant across from Cracker Barrel right before I-75 back in '98 &'99, it was an old Pizza Hut building. He sold it and the new owner ran it into the ground, now we've got the pit and some other stuff at his restaurant here in town. Pruett's Bar B Q. Lot's of pretty Nurses in Cartersville back then and I'm sure they're even prettier now. I live 2 blocks from HWY 411 and could get to his apartment in a little over an hour. Welcome aboard, we're all in the same boat or Z car.

I like that she doesn't let her hair get in the way. :embarrass: