siteunseen

I read that too, Blue. Pink is thicker than yellow. Also read the 1st Atomic Bomb is credited for non-stick cookware.

Thanks guys. I had some but thought of it as a natural gas only. But the good ole internet brings out the truth.

So proud of my fuel rail and now it has a small leak on the line to the FPR. I used Permatex red gasket adhesive for thread sealer, stupid I realize now, it was high temp and claimed to be fuel resistant but it ain't! My neighbor who is a HVAC contractor said I should use flux and plumbing solder on the brass fuel barbs then screw them into the aluminium fuel rail. Anybody have any thoughts or experiences? Zedyone_kenobi what did you use for thread sealer?

On my '77 dash-pot there's a small brass screw under that white cap, very small, jewelers screwdriver small. Spray the protruding rod with some slickum and adjust the screw. Mine works good with about 1/4" movement on the throttle mechanism. If that's the problem. What about unplugging the BCDD for a test drive? It has 1 wire that has a bullet connector below the coil.

I wanted to get a fresh motor right off the bat, before paint and then the interior. So I guess I'm a little of all 3.

I'm proud to say I figured it out. I loosened the passenger side bottom allen bolt on the throttle body and was able to move that arm that holds the throttle return spring from vertical position that was blocking the shield to horizontal. The shield fell out then. And yes the heat shield sits right on top of the header tubes. Thanks for your replies. Cliff

I've sent a reply. Glad you can use it.

It's a '77 with Msa's 6 to 1 header right under and the header tubes are causing it to bind. Maybe I can get it out just loosening the intake?

I used some cheap clear coat on my shields and the heat has turned them yellowy. I got the bolts out but can't maneuver it out. Anyone know a trick? It looks like I could remove the throttle body and it would come out or take the intake off. Any other ideas or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks for any help.

You can have it if you need it.

You make good sense Healy Man. $20 gauge makes that new FPR $80 instead of $60. I got mine from rockauto.com

I'd get a gauge on the fuel line too, temporary would do fine for testing. I bought one off ebay for $15, 0psi to 60psi. $5 more for the "T" from auto parts store. At least you won't get sprayed with fuel when your taking off the lines. Smiley face goes here.

You can practice on mine anytime. Engine bay and motor looks great. Good job.

Holy crap $1000. Mr. Beck should have jumped on that.

I too removed the EGR and Thermal Vacuum Switch when I put on the header. The MSA header I bought won't work with an EGR valve, don't know about others. Until I found the broken AAR I thought removing the TVS was my "hard to warm up" problem but it wasn't thank goodness. This guy says he sales a manual valve but I didn't find it so maybe you have to email him. If you have cleaned it, adjusted it and still can't get it to open and close properly you will have to buy another. They cost about $70 for a GTV6 and as much as $130 for some other cars.@ If you want you can buy a manual valve from me. It's a permanent fix and will never need to be replaced or cleaned. It also provides even better cold starting and slightly more power then a perfectly functioning Bosch AAV. It's operated by a manual cable, pull it out for starting and push it in after a few minutes of running. The manual AAVs are for sale at the bottom of this page. http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm

What ever you paid wasn't enough. That's a beautiful car. Lucky rascal.

I agree with Grant. Sounds like a big vacuum leak. Search for "Yogurt cup test" on this site. It is a great trick for 1 person to find vacuum leaks.

Wow, what a difference that made. I found one on a ZX that looked good (the hood had been kept closed) and when I was cleaning it up I noticed the connection plug was at an angle where mine was level. Also there is a rolled pin in the ZX AAR that keeps the metal strip and the connection from turning like mine had done.

So it doesn't turn at all, it bends to the right or left. Thanks Blue! Bi-metal slowly rotates to a position that can no longer operate shutter AAR gets gunked up by oily engine fumes that are re-circulated. Electrical connections to AAR corrode and stop conducting. AAR suffers mechanical failure due to bi-metal lever rotation.

I'm pretty sure mine is toasted. I'm going to a junkyard that has 3 old Z's and want to know if I know how to check if they're good. Does the whole thing turn, electrical connector and all? Or does the connector stay and the 1/2" x 2" long metal strip with the wires wrapped around it turn by itself? I put the metal strip in a vise and it won't budge. Put 12 volts to it for at least 5 minutes and still no movement. The only way I see it could turn is where the connection slides in the housing. So if I find one that the electrical connection turns slightly to the right while in the housing would that mean it's probably good? Sorry for any confusion, I'm not too good at 'splainin things. Thanks for any replies. Cliff

Google has this https://www.google.com/webhp?rls=ig#hl=en&rls=ig&sclient=psy-ab&q=atlanta+datsun+z+cars+mechanics&oq=atlanta+datsun+z+cars+mechanics&gs_l=serp.3...59.5926.1.6188.10.10.0.0.0.0.155.1104.3j7.10.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.OP19sfmlOP0&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=9e0d634c5b1464f6&biw=1280&bih=620

Natural deselection.

Is it the right? Or the other side? That's my AAR connection too. Thanks for any help. EDIT: Sorry, Ive found that the LFT side is the 12volt and RT for the ECU in my picture.

Way to go Grant. Some fine days ahead for a drive.

I'm sorry. There isn't a 6 o'clock, 7 & 5 o'clock. But would backing up 1 hole all the way around the distributor retard timing?