siteunseen

This a little off from TV commercials but I've been wanting to share this (it mentions Mr. K). It's an informative cartoon in the Sunday's comics about the 240. It's PDF and safe to open. 240Z.pdf

Wouldn't putting #1 wire a step counterclockwise put it at 6 o'clock? I was thinking you would want it at 9 o'clock like Blue's picture. But Jeff's forgotten more than I'll ever learn about these motors. So maybe backing up 1 step would retard the ignition timing allowing him to come off full advance at the adjustment screw on distributor base. Then he could turn it clockwise more, more advance.

That looks good! I'd like to see the hood too. Can't find a picture though.

A little late but on my '77 the rotor button points at the left side clip for the cap for #1. It's a little above the vacuum advance. There is also a vertical line on the left side of my cap that is supposedly #1, right around that clip too. Just found this http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html so it looks like mines wrong and yours is right but mine is running like a scolded dog and yours isn't. But my oil pump spindle is at 11:25 like Pomorza'a picture instead of 11:30.

Google has this info https://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=280z+rear+bumper+removal&oq=280z+rear+bumper+removal&gs_l=hp.3..0.3909.13479.0.14076.24.18.0.6.6.0.145.1434.16j2.18.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.4B6ll6JZg8Y&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=42d1a54cca937312&biw=1280&bih=620

Read this http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

My door plate says 9/'76 but it's titled as a '77 and has the sloped rear deck. If your buddies 4/77 has that nipple on the accordion boot all he needs is some 5/8's heater hose and a spray can of break cleaner for the AAR, or that's all a Redneck needed. But then again you have the smogsters to deal with. Fastwoman did some cool looking stuff with copper tubing and sweat fittings painted black. I may try that after I get through de-bugging.

I believe I got it now.

So I am going to make mine look like this picture. "I see" said the blind man. Thanks again.

You do some fine work Grant. I would have used a brown magic marker and sealed it.

Thank you, thank you! I like a thinking man. I've just woken up so I can't wrap my mind around this just yet but I believe I understand what your saying. I'll re-read this when I get home from work. On another subject, yesterday I bought an Accel super stock coil from Advance Auto online with a coupon code for $25.99, $28.33 w/taxes, it's smaller than the original but besides the hocus pocus they claim it really smoothed out my idle and seems to crank sooner which is now instant instead of before which took 2 cranks. Small details are progressing nicely. Thanks again.

Shooting in the dark is your best shooting! You nailed my plumbing questions, thank you. I'm pretty sure all the components I removed are the cause of the long warm up but the trade off was worth every minute I have to putt around until it heats up. Here's a picture of what I want to do but I think it may be counter productive if I understand you correctly. Take the cap (circled in yellow) and cap off the tube from the accordion boot then run my valve cover hose to where the cap was (in red) doing away with that section of hose (in green). Would that keep my throttle body from smudging up or make it worse? When I rebuilt and cleaned everything the throttle body was black and oily-smudgy. I apologize for my explanations, they're about as clear as mud.

I was wondering if re-plumbing those hoses would do anything. It doesn't.

I have an early '77 that has the hose from the valve cover attaching to the accordion boot before the throttle body. It takes forever to warm up. I notice a lot of those hoses going to the throttle body beside the one coming from the air regulator. I have the '78 FSM and it shows valve cover to throttle body. I guess I'll try it the newer way and see what happens. Just asking opinions. Thanks.

Don't forget the hose end goes to a hose that connects to the pipe coming out of your block up front on the driver's side. You must have been driving that ZX Fred Flintstone style.

Jackpot!

I'm about to put on my dash cap and was going to ask if the clock problem with these cars is fixable at the clock or is it something deeper? I've got a 1/2" split above my clock and can get to the wiring pretty easy by making the split even larger (notice I didn't use "crack", giggidy) with little effort. I plan on refilling the splits with black silicone sealant before I put on the dash cover. Thanks for any advice.

I don't think I could take the anxiety of driving mine daily. I always wonder before I turn it off is it going to crank again? They're old. Buy a 10 year old Camry and a fixer upper Z car for the weekends. That's what I would tell a friend.

Those look great. What do you think your price per seat was? Tools and material?

The front pops up crazy after the motor's gone. On mine it's worn out struts.

Alright! Something Z related around my house. I hope I can go.

Looking good! I see your keeping your rebuild book close by, I carried mine around for 2 months. It's all marked up with high-lighter ink and greasy hands. That knob on the leveler got in the way for me too. I bent it horizontally and used a socket on the other end. Keep up the good work, your doing something now.

Go ahead and buy a battery. You'll need one.

The day you crank it for the first time you'll be the happiest and the most anxious person in Georgia. "Layla, you've got me on my knees. Layla, I'm begging, darling please. Layla, darling won't you ease my worried mind."

I had an idea.