siteunseen

I get my fuel for my 4 vehicles from the same Gas Station. The '77 280 had a problem that was fixed by putting the potentiometer in line with the coolant sensor. I've actually done this. Maybe "drift" wasn't the right choice for a word so I'll just say it was broken and now it's not.

Yea it's drifted out of spec is what I read. Mine ran terrible between idle and 2500 RPM, it wouldn't even spin the tires from a dead stop. I first thought it was the TPS though. I did what Fastwoman and Zed Head suggested, also on Atlantic Z's tips for fuel. I'm so glad I did too, made mine run like it should. Cheap and easy to do, the way I like it! http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

I changed the oil in my '87 Hardbody this weekend and have used a Fram Tough Guard filter from Walmart with that rubber flap that keeps the oil from running back through the filter to the pan. They weren't in stock and I wound up buying one from Advance AP without that flap. At start up this morning I heard that old familiar sound again, a short "clackity clacking", valves I suppose. It has 300,000 miles on it and I'm waiting on it to finally quit running before I tear it apart. I didn't put a lot of thought in those flapped filters, kind of a sales pitch thing to me, but I do now! Makes a difference on my truck on cold starts.

Does anybody still sale the factory accessory styled stripe? I don't like the blocked looking one MSA has and one of my rust spots is under the rear of the driver's door stripe.

I'd go ahead without that other line up pin. And I think all that grease/oil is because of the oil pump and timing chain being behind all that. They all will do it. Clean it then see how soon it comes back, you could have a torn gasket around the front cover.

Tom Monroe "How to Rebuild your L motor" pp.118, "Oil the side seals and insert them into their grooves with the lips pointing toward the block."

After the spring oil change I'd use Valvoline VR1 10W30 Racing Oil, not for street use because of the converters, from O'rielly's. Seems like they had the best price and not all of them stock it, but can get it overnight. It's kinda expensive is why I say not for the 1st change.

Ruger wasn't involved in that crash was he? Sorry to hear your bad news. I broke my ankle in '85 and had the third ankle bone fusion done in 12/'01 and am about to have it done again, in the next few months. They seem to wear out the more active you are. I truly hope yours wasn't too bad, you'll feel that pain every time you take a step. All the best on the re mending and repairing. Cliff

That sums it up perfectly! I now get the handle "Hardway".

They keep me out of jails and hospitals.

Ya'll both have helped me. With the pictures especially. Thanks guys for taking the time to share.

That looks fantastic! 17 months is record time for these old cars.

Thank you for that information Dr. 240Z. I'm just a Candy Striper when it comes to the carburetors. Cliff

The triple Webers I wound up with only have choke cable connections on the outer 2. The middle one has nothing. I'm hoping the original choke cables will work, like for the SU's.

When I did mine a small bottle jack helped keep things in place while your trying to start the nuts. Use the Energy Suspension Hyper Flex kit, it's around $150, Energy Suspension HYPER-FLEX Master Bushing Kit 70-73 Nissan / Datsun 240Z - Part Number: 7.18101 - Sparktec Motorsports - Passenger Car Applications. I got the black set instead of red.

I agree with hr369, clean the connections then coat them with dielectric grease. Cheap and easy to do.

That looks fabbedulous. What stock did you use? That's what I want!

The one from rpmrons.com for $625 is pretty much what I bought from rockauto.com, picking and choosing myself, for $600. Everything was standard size too. Also a new set of Standard fuel injectors. I typed too soon. rpmrons $423 kit looks more like it, no pistons or wrist pins either, my originals were in good shape. Also bought the high volume oil pump from Advanced, Melling M52 If I remember right. Got an email from zcarsource http://www.zcarsource.com/specials.html looks like a good deal.

That's the 3 dealer add on's mine has. A/C, Slotted Mags, and my favorite, a thick undercoating.

Don't go smacking on a new AFM, knowing that I doubt it too.

I know you got it but I just can't wait to share my experience. I had to remove that arm off the throttle body that holds the spring, it's a #6 allen bolt that holds the throttle body to the intake manifold - bottom right, so I could reach that bolt closet to thermostat housing. I had to put the horizontal shield on first then the vertical one. Sorry I didn't get this to you earlier.

Check that vane under the black square cover on the side of AFM, they get stuck sometimes. It has a counter weight on it and should move freely when you touch the weight.

Read this XenonS30 - Painting Your Engine

Was having problems with Farmers Insurance trying to add small fees on my Homeowners policy and considered switching but finally came to a consensus with them. So the 240Z has been insured and tagged and the miles are rolling on. Only a couple of small differences against my 280Z, kinda joking there, I LOVE THIS CAR. It is so much lighter feeling and way more responsive through the steering wheel but I feel all the bumps in the roads. It's my Go-Cart from childhood with a radio. If I hadn't started reading this Forum I would have never considered buying one. Thank you all!

A mechanic clamped my return line with needle nosed Vise Grips and Popsicle stick looking pieces of wood, without damaging the hose.