siteunseen

A vacuum gauge reading could help out too with the blown head gasket. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/

I'm pretty sure the Moderator won't delete that!

That's something I forgot to mention. I spent $50 having the FSM & EFI Bible printed and bound at a local print shop, before I found the Tom Monroe book, and I never used it on the motor just the transmission and steering rack. You can just find the page you need on your computer and print it out, that big 3 ring binder of paper was a waste off money.

"How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine". I've rebuilt boat motors and a couple of dirt bike engines so I sort of knew a few things already. Then I bought a '77 280Z and decided I wanted to keep it so I bought that book off amazon.com for $20. I've spent $2,000 on that car so far and that book, by far, is the BEST $20 I'll ever spend. Can't say enough on how simple Tom Monroe makes the rebuild. Simple to follow instructions and advice with lots of pictures. It's the best instruction manual I've read. Buy it and read cover to cover about 3 times then rebuild your motor. Oh and I almost forgot the wisdom and kindness of the people on this forum. This forum plus that book and you'll think your a Nissan mechanic.

Beauty is in the eye of the owner.

Mine next? Your doing a great job. It appears very thorough too. I'm ready to do the struts now myself- I did mine backwards from yours, engine 1st then all the bushings in front and the steering rack. I'm hoping to get some tips from your work, thanks.

If the car still runs then it must have been the ac belt that tore loose. There's only 2 on my '77, the main water pump, fan and alternator belt then the ac compressor belt. If that belt came loose it could have knocked some vacuum lines off around the distributor advance or BCDD. That could cause a bad running motor.

Maybe Bruce Kardashian rode around in it.

Put two wide silver stripes down the center outlined in black.

HOLY GUACAMOLE!!! It's alive! Haven't been able to yet but I'm laying rubber down now. Thank you Fast Woman, Zed Head and http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html. Everybody should try this. $5 and 30 minutes to revive an old sports car.

I hope y'all fall down a flight of stairs and someone is there to capture the Kodak moment.

Now I know what it must feel like to chew off your own arm. It was not coming up with my pocket knife and I couldn't reach the pull handle in the cabin, I was in a pinch. Thank God for pocket phones and neighbors that don't work.

That's what mine is doing too. Flat spot then it screams ahead. A fellow that's helping me thought higher fuel pressure would clear it up but it hasn't. Thanks for the part number Zed Head.

Does an FPR have to have vacuum? Would a constant pressure of 36psi be ok at idle as well as WOT? I found a guy without the vacuum on a adjustable FPR and he says it "works like a charm". He has my same set up it looks like. I apologize for being hard headed sounding but I have no knowledge of resistors and am a little hesitant to go outside of my abilities. If I do use the resistor is that something I could get at Radio Shack or auto parts stores? Radio Shack has 1 that looks like a volume knob, with 3 post, I would need 2 post right? In and out? They're a couple of bucks vs. $70 for the FPR. Probably should try that 1st.

Nice car that was originally bought 45 minutes from me. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3429372777.html

Well I've learned the difference between boost and a hole in the ground.:disappoin And manifold vacuum decreases with RPM. Is there anywhere that pulls more vacuum with RPM? I've got to get my car back! It's driving me nuts.

Thank you so very much for your time in explaining things. Would you please give this a look and see what you think http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2222 I don't know boost from a hole in the ground but if my intake vacuum rises with the RPMs I think this would work.

I've bought a cheap universal off ebay but it, like others, leaks down after awhile. I've read Zed Head say that the Aeromotive Tech guys said theirs does it too and Wade Nelson put a check valve in the line before the fuel rail on his. I've found a retired Nissan mechanic that's getting mine fine tuned now that he's put that adjustable FPR on. So if my new Bosch pump has a check valve in the pump wouldn't I want another in the return line? I have brand new injectors so I hope they're not the cause. Or has someone found one that doesn't leak down? I need more pressure because of the larger fuel rail and some other things I did. And probably the drift? in the ECU Fast Woman talks about. Thanks for any helpful replies. Cliff

I googled that, http://www.jdmgallery.com/information/diys/s30-2/replacing-oil-pan-gasket/

That's burnt into memory.

I used a Winchester gun cleaning kit from Walmart after it was vatted at a machine shop. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Winchester-Universal-Cleaning-Kit-24pc/20595702. Worked great.

Sounds like your going to need a fuel pressure gauge. They're cheap money instead of guessing or replacing parts that aren't bad. The inlet port on the pump, if it's a Bosch OE, has a cone shaped screen filter smaller than a thimble in it. I used tweezers to get mine out. They're real fragile if they're OE. Blast it with carb cleaner if it's dirty. Your about to be over my head and need the pros.

What Andrew said about that cone filter going into the fuel pump. Is it clean? That G3 out of the tank should be full. On my early '77 you can unhook that small flat connector on the starter and turn on the switch and my pump will run. If it's running take off the line before the rail and see what kind of flow you have, into a jug or something.

Yes. A small flat head screwdriver on either side works best for me. Usually just get one side popped out and the connector will slide off.

How come your finger nails aren't all nasty? You must have a hand model for the pictures. Just messing with ya'! You do some amazing things Captain.