siteunseen

Yeah. It would keep a high idle for too long. I turned it clockwise 1/2's at a time until it would fall about 500rpm to idle when I push in the clutch pedal. So now it hesitates at 1500 to 1300 for a second then falls to 800 or 900.

FWIW I turned mine clockwise until it smoothed out comng to a stop. Seems to be working fine.

So heat is ok for the differential fill plug? Mine won't budge. Add on edit: what size wrench will fit male fill plug? 3/4's ?

200 miles of 500 so far. There's a tiger in my tank I just have to figure on how to get him out. Every 50 or so miles I'm gaining 400 rpm's. It's loosening up quick. Temp is to the left of the "F" finally. 3k rpm = 80mph with stock tires and wheels. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Thank You.

Or D) this forum. My favorite.

I live in a small town in Alabama so I spy more Beetle Bugs than Datsuns. But I'll look harder now. Do junkyards count?

I'm getting 19 in. hg off the brake booster tube from manifold. That's good isn't it? It is at the far end of green on my vacuum gauge. Having a hard time getting the timing right though. Trying to do it by ear and my ears ain't too good.

Thank you John Coffey, you got my arse off the floor. Jeff I'm so glad you race because you've given me insight I wouldn't have otherwise. That lash pad replacement was 1 of the easiest things I've done so far, thank you also Gnosez for the re-asurrence. It is purring like a souped up wildcat now. l'll keep my rpm's low for awhile since I'm still unsure about stuck valves. Olzed your a treasure of information, thanks for all your post. Thank you all again, I'll sleep good tonight

Don't forget the anti seize. I've had to remove my wheels 4 times this week.

I know that sucks for you Grant. I used a rubber hammer and came up from the bottom with it but mine was 20 feet away from the car on a stand. Maybe a piece of wood from the bottom and a hammer. Permatex red brush on sealant is what I sealed mine up with.

I'm gonna quote from Grant, "I love you guys but not like that". Thanks so much for your experience.

I found some info http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45677.html. Sorry I freaked out.

It's the exhaust valve on #3 not intake. It's thickness is .162 on my old calipers, it's hard to tell from the flash.

I bought some new tires and hit the old two lane highways to rack up some miles for the break in. Smiling from ear to ear. Guy in an older 3 series BMW got behind me and heard the sound. We pull into a quick shop and I shut it down talked for a few minutes got back on the road and realized I had a dead skip. Pull over again raised the hood and clackaty clack valve sound. Slowly limped back home to do a hot valve adjustment. Pulled the cover and found a lash pad off #3 intake valve spring. Can I take that rocker arm off and put it back on? The lock nut was tight as I had done a cold adjustment when I put the motor together. Don't understand how it happened but I want to fix it ASAP. Only got 53 miles out of my scenic break in. Also the valve didn't fall as my Dad scared the crap out of me with that, maybe a Chevy does that or something.

On mine that black stuff was old oil, looked like paint, I got some oven cleaner from walmart soaked it then sprayed with high pressure hot water at a car wash. Looked like new inside. I didn't paint inside mine just oil as Blue says.

I'd be proud to have that turd. Looks good!

I bought my Exedy from amazon.com.

Same here, ground it with die grinder. No problems. Your going to love the sound made by that setup.

They made all the difference in the world on my car. 3 of the old ones were cracked out and falling apart. I bought new Standard FJ707 with the long hose and they came with the big O ring as well as the smaller one and the clamp. Got them at rockauto.com for about $165.

Cranked right up! No leaks no drips, good oil pressure and temperature. Beautiful sound too. Hal a lu ya, hal a lu ya, hal a lu ya, ha lay you ahh.

I bought them off ebay from a guy named forrest something or the other. You can get 6 or 4 and they come with heat shrink but what a PITA. My hands suffered less rebuilding the engine than what those 10 connections did to them. Soldering is a lot harder than youtube vids make it look. And the hemostats are for holding the spliffs you'll be needing.

Tools needed: hemostats

All's fair in war and racing. What a pass.

Your mechanic friend's guy got over zealous looking at your avatar. I apologize if that's your wife but she has pretty teeth.

I have a very slight leak, when I blow air into the brake booster bung, around the AFM boot, from the throttle body to AFM, it curls up on the ends from those dang Datsun 2 wire clamps. Since it is before the throttle plate should it affect the manifold vacuum? I could get wide hose clamps and stop it probably but if it doesn't matter what does it matter? It's the connection from AFM to throttle body accordion hose that won't seal. It's been a long morning, sorry.