siteunseen

"Can't do any harm" is wise.

Doesn't it suck having to work for Z money? You could make gaskets for a living though, those look really good.

So if the bolt is broken at the base wouldn't that allow it to turn or twist slightly? And wouldn't that bind the cam? Or wear out the bearing? I'm just guessing as usual.

I'm about to get these fromDiscount tires http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=4-114.3&pc=73392&counter=1&wd=16&rw=7

They're a lot easier coming off than back on. Ruined a set of pants and about 1/2 tube of grease under my finger nails. Tommorrow I'll be cleaning tools and enjoying cold beverages. Adieu!

Here's that ACC seller on E-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/77-Datsun-280Z-Complete-Carpet-w-Wheelwells-Shock-Cvrs-/200753401329?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebdd5cdf1&vxp=mtr

So I should dent this work of art 6 to 1 flower pot I've got? With what? I don't want to break the thermo-coating. I'll put up a picture later.

My 6 to 1 header is hitting ever so slightly on the bell housing. I want to grind away a 1/8th" or less. Is this common or is something wrong?

Like Slim Pickens said in Blazing Saddles "Dang that was close. Almost lost a hundred dollar hand cart".

Take it to auto parts store with a machine shop and see how much. They'll do it right the first time like you would.

I've got another place to hide my money, '77 280Z.

I promise that'll be one of my first post after it is running. Just got the clutch in and re-attached the tranny today so the motor's ready to be dropped in. I still need to solder the new connections for the injectors and cold start before i can crank it. Almost put the header on before mounting the transmission. In my crazy way of re-assembling that would have been a huge mistake because I'm doing it on the floor instead of hanging from a hoist. The bellhouse and transmission is a lot heavier than I thought, so glad I learned from you guys to pull both instead of bench pressing that b***h. Not really the floor but a crate Zedyone showed in his thread. It's taking longer than I thought because it's hotter than I thought it would be in HELL!

I wasn't looking in the right place Grant. In a bar of soap is funny. I'm a Redneck and can't find money if it's in a dictionary. But I can find it if it's in my cousins panties.

Where did the hippy joke go? It's not on Funnybone. I think you could hide anything of a hippy's under a bottle of deodorant.

There are some common bolts at the front of the pan to the front cover but you shouldn't have to remove the oil pan if you careful with the gasket. Maybe break loose with a putty knife before you pull the cover to keep from tearing it. All #12 bolts have to come out and a few #10s, don't forget the 2 up top at the head. The Fixx have a song I sing when working on mine, "One thing leads to another". There's a trick putting the oil pump at 11:25, slide it up then turn it 1/8" clockwise and you'll feel the gears fall in place then turn back counter clockwise the 1/8th and bolt up.

What are you telling us? That guide was OK?

Here's Hardway's adventure http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46588.html

I've built the engine crate you put up measurments for. Works great but if someone (like me) is going to work on the rear of the motor, plate and flywheel, they should use 1x6 for the back side or do what I had to do with a wood chisel. The 2x is too thick to let the rear clear the board so I had to chisel out 3/4" of the thickness and went down about 2" so it will clear the rear board. You could still use the 2x but cut that out before nailing together. It sat about 1/2" short before I cut that out. But for storage it would be fine. And you'll have to go 1/2" farther back for the oil pump cut out.

That's some damn good eyes olzed. It does look thin or non existent. Where would it be? In the oil pan like hardway's was.

Part number for the M8 deformed nuts. I bought a great header from MSA but the stud kit was wrong.

Finally! Somebody else makes bad moves other than me. Trial and error is the only way for me to learn, sometimes hard learning. Nows your chance for those oversized pistons that make more power. A blessing in disguise, maybe!

Ok I have some more info on exhaust studs from my local Nissan Dealer. I carried one of the studs and nut from MSA, M8x1.25, and asked about a M10x1.25 stud and nut. He had some from their 8 cylinder pick-up, #14064-JG30B STUD $1.98, #01223-N0021 NUT $1.06. that matched length wise and the nuts are truly out of round. You can't tighten them past the last 2 threads in the nut without a socket where as the MSA nut would spin all the way down to the shank on their stud. Parts guy said that those nuts were NOT deformed or out of round because they thread down so easy. He said I should mash them with a vice a little to make them out of round or buy the ones he sales. He has been selling Nissan parts since '85 and said that he's never seen a nut you could tighten all the way with your fingers on a manifold stud. Exactly what 5thHorsemann said. I don't think MSA got the right nuts for me, maybe I'm the only one?

I'm sorry. It's been so long since I've seen my motor actualy in the car I forgot what it looked like. Mine's tilted the same way looking at my pre- destruction pictures.

Are 240 motor mounts slightly tilted to the passenger side or is that a camera trick? My 280 valve cover is level sitting in the hole. Maybe a carburetor thing?

Here's something to look at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46186.html Good pictures always help me. And all the bolts on the front cover and water pump are diffrent so pay close attention on their locations. Don't forget the oil slinger, that's a dumb mistake I made because I got in a hurry. You'll need a rubber hammer too.