siteunseen

I've got 700 miles on my fresh motor and decided it was going to stay together after all, my first build on L motor. The sun shined down and a 928 with a younger guy with blue sunglasses was looking over at a stop light. After shifting to 3rd he had enough and backed off. Big ole smile on my face and my dog, Jelly, seemed to like it too. Gotta figure out a seat belt for her. Anybody know of something?

I recently did mine so here's some links: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45883.html. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45676.html. It's not as bad as I first thought but you need to get everything together before you start, kinda quick on all the steps. Then make sure and put a Fram G-3 clear plastic fuel filter right out of the tank, search Fram G-3 and you'll find lots of info. You can do it! Blue's tips on the PLOP! are great.

Here's some white smoke inside the vehicle.

It's above the spare tire-well to the right, by the tool bag and jack on my '77. About 6" circle.

In the hatch by your spare tire you'll find an circle shaped cover with 3 screws. Take that off and get a screwdriver and hammer and unlock the tank access. Then remove the fuel gauge sensor and take a LED light and look down into the tank. You'll see rust if there is any.

Nice car, even parked.

I'd bet your car has a permanent BOLO for it. 1 mean arse looking car!

Fine looking carpet. I hope mine looks that good some time soon.

I actually just used Permatex High Heat PTFE Thread Sealer. It says fully cured in 72 hours, so after that I'm baking it my oven set to at least 300 F. Then polishing up like Zedy_Kenobi's. If it leaks again I'll have the fittings brazed in. Also they're will be a fire extinguisher behind the seat from now on. Thanks for the replies. Cliff

Yeah, I'm laughing.

I'm trying to figure out if Teflon tape would melt on my fuel fittings at the fuel rail. I soaked the yellow over night in a jar of fuel and it held up great. Now I'm wondering if it might melt out when the motor gets up to temp. I'm thinking it may be a good thing for it to melt in to the threads? Maybe seal even better. I could put it the oven when I get it all back together and see. Maybe 300 degrees? More or less? I'm using the heat shields and I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. Appreciate any replies. Thanks Cliff Edit: sorry, I forgot the Wikipedia page. It says 621 F.

I read that too, Blue. Pink is thicker than yellow. Also read the 1st Atomic Bomb is credited for non-stick cookware.

Thanks guys. I had some but thought of it as a natural gas only. But the good ole internet brings out the truth.

So proud of my fuel rail and now it has a small leak on the line to the FPR. I used Permatex red gasket adhesive for thread sealer, stupid I realize now, it was high temp and claimed to be fuel resistant but it ain't! My neighbor who is a HVAC contractor said I should use flux and plumbing solder on the brass fuel barbs then screw them into the aluminium fuel rail. Anybody have any thoughts or experiences? Zedyone_kenobi what did you use for thread sealer?

On my '77 dash-pot there's a small brass screw under that white cap, very small, jewelers screwdriver small. Spray the protruding rod with some slickum and adjust the screw. Mine works good with about 1/4" movement on the throttle mechanism. If that's the problem. What about unplugging the BCDD for a test drive? It has 1 wire that has a bullet connector below the coil.

I wanted to get a fresh motor right off the bat, before paint and then the interior. So I guess I'm a little of all 3.

I'm proud to say I figured it out. I loosened the passenger side bottom allen bolt on the throttle body and was able to move that arm that holds the throttle return spring from vertical position that was blocking the shield to horizontal. The shield fell out then. And yes the heat shield sits right on top of the header tubes. Thanks for your replies. Cliff

I've sent a reply. Glad you can use it.

It's a '77 with Msa's 6 to 1 header right under and the header tubes are causing it to bind. Maybe I can get it out just loosening the intake?

I used some cheap clear coat on my shields and the heat has turned them yellowy. I got the bolts out but can't maneuver it out. Anyone know a trick? It looks like I could remove the throttle body and it would come out or take the intake off. Any other ideas or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks for any help.

You can have it if you need it.

You make good sense Healy Man. $20 gauge makes that new FPR $80 instead of $60. I got mine from rockauto.com

I'd get a gauge on the fuel line too, temporary would do fine for testing. I bought one off ebay for $15, 0psi to 60psi. $5 more for the "T" from auto parts store. At least you won't get sprayed with fuel when your taking off the lines. Smiley face goes here.

You can practice on mine anytime. Engine bay and motor looks great. Good job.

Holy crap $1000. Mr. Beck should have jumped on that.