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I don't have one or remember having one. My FSM shows an oil thrower. Could there have not been one or did I lose it and my mind? It's an early '77 with a 2 row pulley. MSA has one for $1.70 for '70 thru '83 but no other parts places have a listing, Courtesy either. Will it really cause the crank seal to leak if I don't use one? 3 woodruff keys, chain sprocket on 1st, worm gear on 2nd and the pulley's on the last one. Everything seems nice and snug sitting on an engine stand. Thanks for any help.

Conjecture and guesses are what put men in space. I've set it at #3 and used red loctite, torqued to 100lbs.

I thought you weren't supposed to use coolant at 1st, just water. Just one of the thousands of suggestions I've read. You know better than most of those suggesting though. Can't wait to see some pictures.

I'm with Grant. $10 for 2 filters to start with.

I put my timing stuff on and was very careful. I turned the crank over and now the crank sprocket dimple is 2 links to the left of my bright link. Is this normal? Kinda' seems like it since the crank sprocket has less teeth than the cam sprocket. Motor turned like rubbing panties together.

Would a hose that runs from calipers to hardline on brakes work from the slave cylinder to that hardline? Mine is rotten and I can get a single brake line from rockauto super cheap. They look the same to me. Thanks.

Steve that's pretty much exactly what the mechanic said. Stock engine would benefit most from the cam advance. And won't cost a penny more than what I've got already. Also said if I didn't like the way it ran it would be no problem to go to #1 hole on cam sprocket since the chain is already in the right spot on the crank. But "Don't drop the chain!" I'm sorry to say that I will be doing the reverse of what you suggested, #3 first. Thank you for the reassurance and for reading all that Racer Brown article. It was confusing to me.

Got this email. 50% on some stuff. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209248&m=wc&l=en&html=true

I guess I'll expirement with it. If I do what he says then I've got him on the hook. Thank you all for your thoughts. Much appreciated. Cliff

A mechanic friend that I have lots of faith in suggested I install my new timing set at hole #3. Says it will give it a little more umph. His shop has a waiting room with an armoire and a flat screen. Rovers and MBs with engine covers. He started off on Datsuns and said they used to do that a lot that it advances the cam slightly. Any thoughts on this?

And where I messed up was not checking levelness between holes I tapped. The 1st 3 are straight up and down but the last 3 are slightly tilted. Slipped in the vise between the wood. Nobody knows until now.

Here's what mine turned out like using his measurments. No CSV or pressure gauge though. Kept it simple on 1st try.

Write a book. Sorry. You've not left enough info to get answers.

I just put my new cylinder head on. I used anti-seize by permatex and turbo bolts. #9 wouldn't click my torque wrench @62lbs after almost positivley feeling the same as the other 13. I quit as I don't want to be in the same situation your in. Do people retorque after break in?

That's the thing to do, step back and think it over, you'll figure something out. It's almost been 8 months on mine from walking away. Hopefully it's not a car you have to drive. Uh I meant have to use daily. Of course you have to drive it, they hard to push.

I had one broken on mine when I bought it. Head was rolling around my valve assembly. I took the cylinder head off and the bolt was sticking up about 6". Vise griped it. But you may not want to remove the head. It only takes a couple of hours and is cheaper than a welder. Threads are in the block only.

I watch "Always Sunny in Philidelphia" and have seen a burgundy 2+2 parked outside the bar more than once.

Holy moly! I just looked at Zedyone's picture. That is a thing of beauty Sir.

Here's the measurments from Willoughby Z, thanking him again, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43897.html. Scroll down to #21. I'm going to be putting a FPR on the firewall close to where the coolant in and out is on the passenger's side and running the return down to the hardline going back to the tank, on passenger's side. The one for a '78 only has 1 inlet and the return on bottom. So the end of the rail closet to windshield will be connected by about 2' high pressure 5/16' fuel line to the FPR then low pressure from the bottom or return of the FPR down above the starter but below the battery down that flat part of the frame where the hard fuel lines are coming from the tank and connect to the return. It works in my head but is hard to explain. I just woke up so sorry for the rambling. My medication takes about 30 minutes to kick in.

Parachute but no wheelie bars? That is a crazy ride.

Ben the aluminium rail already has the 1/2" feed line drilled in it http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash6.html. And yes that is Blue, blue & blue white twisted pair phone wire. FYI everybody on DSL that's all it takes to connect you to the info highway, 2 little wires. Coaxial is the way to go. And my quest is to do away with all hardlines on my motor. They get crudded up.

Thank you Blue, that means a lot.

2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, loaned from a plumber friend taps & bits @$0, 4lbs baking soda for blasting gun from Dollar Store $2.00. $100 on beer. Easy to do. I'm gonna give myself a 8 out of 10. Next one will be perfect.

My valves were so far out of adjustment I heard "clacking" and thought it was a woodpecker on my house.

My Felpro gasket set came with a off white plastic washer for the oil drain. But it has the copper one on it already.