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I also used locktite on my exspansion plugs. You've begun a good tech tip again. Thanks!

What about the big bolt that holds the timing gear on the cam?

Would synthetic VR1 10w30 be better for a newly rebuilt motor or would the petroleum VR1? They both have the high zinc and phosphorus content. When I took the motor apart it was dark brown, almost black on the inside, crank, pistons and cam. Would synthetic do that to the motor?

I sure hope that they'll be at least close. Standards are from Greenville, South Carolina. Maybe they flow test every 10,001 or so. That would be a chance to take a smoke break.

I just got the upgraded hex head fuel injector screws from my local Nissan dealer for $0.61 each, times 12, $7.32. Part number 01121-02981. While your at it. They are like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Fuel-Injector-Holder-Bolt-Set-280Z-280ZX-1975-1983-NEW-/230791880629?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D310386387693%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8460149209738761374

I bought 6 FJ707T Standard Ignitions from rockauto for $163. They have a long hose with a cheap clamp but do come with both rubber seals, the big one and the small one. Still sitting on a shelf so I'm talking out of my butt. No expirence with the performance but they're nice looking. Smiley face jumping up and down.

Is that bad? Oil in cylinders. Or I guess your saying on the tops of the pistons where there shouldn't be oil.

You could drop it from an airplane. It'd top out at 120mph though.

And wouldn't a low front spoiler with all that engine weight maybe get scratched up by bouncing on these fine interstates we have.

It's out there, just googled and got this real quick Just want to note that I surveyed the archives and found all the hints for removal of oil pan while the engine is in the car BEFORE I attempted to do this on my '76 280Z to replace a leaky gasket. And I must report, once you know the tricks, it is a very simple process requiring no removal of crossmember or jacking of engine. Since the hints were scattered in several posts, I thought I would take you through the process with all hints in one place: 1. Jack car up on crossmember and block it there. Even better, I slid ramps under the front wheels (the car is too low to drive up them). This gave me plenty of working room, and was much safer than jack stands. 2. Drain oil. Remove dipstick. 3. Remove all pan bolts. Note that there are two different-length bolts used on the pan. The longer ones go throught the angled metal "spacers" or whatever they are on rear sides of pan. 4. Remove bottom two bolts in the tranny bellhousing. The pan will hang up on them otherwise. 5. On my car (76 280Z), there was a small "anti-torque" thing on the steering rack. It's put together with a U-clamp like you'd find on an exhaust clamp, and is there I guess to keep the rack from twisting. Anyway, mine was situated at the driver's side of the rack. It's in the way for lowering pan. It's simple to loosen it and either remove it or (as I did) simply slide it to the other end out of the way. 6. Knock pan loose with rubber mallet. After 20+ years, mine was almost 'welded' on and had to be pried loose with screwdriver, which actually bent one corner before it would bust loose. You may have to go this way, too, but try to do it only as last resort. Straightening small bends in pan rim is no big deal. 7. Loosen the two 12mm bolts on the oil pickup. They're on the driver's side about halfway down the block. Be careful not to damage the thin gasket. You don't have to actually remove this piece, but I did so to clean it up and replace the gasket. 8. Once the pan is loose, you can get a flashlight and see where your rod journals are situated. The pan will not come out unless the front journals (or more accurately, the crank counterweights in front) are rotated up into the engine. So you need to get your 27mm socket on the crank snout and turn with a big ratchet or breaker bar. (I meant to see where this was compared to TDC, but forgot.) 9. Once the frontmost counterweights are up inside engine, the pan will slide back, down and out. It's a tight fit and takes a bit of jiggling, but it will make it. 10. To install, "reverse the procedure". If you've removed the oil pickup, screw it very loosely into position BEFORE you slide the pan on. Once the pan is back in position, don't forget to tighten the oil pickup bolts before you start in on the pan bolts. I tried sticking the pan gasket on with sticky sealer, but you have to wiggle everything around so much, that it still came loose. It's okay. You can fudge it around when the pan is in position, just be patient and make sure all the screws are indeed going through the gasket. Finally, do NOT overtighten pan bolts. I think they spec out at 7ftlbs. The pan gasket I used was so thick and squishy that I had to make 3-4 passes around with a small torque wrench before they would 'hold' torque. Also note that there are two or three bolts on the passengers side under the crossmember that you'll have to do with a box end, as you can't get a socket on them. 11. Don't forget to put oil back in the engine! ;-)

I've read shaving cream in the cylinders to keep chips out and also read a post about somebody that was able to unhook motor mounts and jack the engine up enough to remove oil pan then push the piston through the top. I wish I could remember specific names or post titles to keep you from having to do alot of searching. I always just google search and get better results. The search on here doesn't filter out junk as well as google does. Good luck.

Oh wow, that stinks. I'm doing the same thing as you right now. That nut will be in my mind for sure.

Damn fine idea. Looks like the stints they put in my Dad's arteries, but bass ackwards.

That's what Michael Knight drove to High School.

I thought of this for keeping that stinking gear oil in while moving it around to clean up. It's a 2" rubber cap from Lowes. The other over the gear shifter hole is 1 1/2" and just kept the water out. The second picture is the reverse light right? Just need to solder wire back on and get a new rubber boot, right? Thanks for any help. Cliff

I'm going to delete the "5 Speed" off my '77 deck.

Would this bumper work with the right brackets on '77 280?[ATTACH=CONFIG]53129[/ATTACH It's off a 240.

I just read all about Glade Plug-Ins, and tried to see my car value but it wouldn't go beyond a '98. Evey little bit helps. Maybe one day I'll be in RED.

I've been trying to reply for 5 minutes! Download time is forever even though I have nothing to say but I bought an N42 reworked head, valves and sides ground and new stems etc., for $250.

Yeah I guess I am being a cheapskate on this for some reason. I've done too much work and thrown money around like crazy. I'll go with Redline products. Thanks for your replies.

Could I use this in my transmission as well as differential on a '77 5spd? I know everybody runs Redline but this has to be close in quality and is a 1/3rd of the price. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-75W-90-Syn-Blend-Gear-Oil-1-Quart/16795248

This may help http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Like LeonV says, the "How to To Rebuild L Series" by Tom Monroe was the best money I've spent on my 280Z. And Blue's Tech Tips from Atlanticz.com was the best $0 money, he could charge for that info, it's priceless. If you plan on a paint job for the body you should pull what's left and start from there. $2000 to paint and you will not want to pull the motor out or I would not, the fenders a very thin, an elbow would make dent.

I had good results with laquer thinner and a very strong degreaser that came from a local chemical supply, not sold in retail stores, and small wire brushes from the welding section at Lowes. Brass bristles for the aluminium.

$28.19 in Alabama for 1 year. Antique plates get pulled over alot around here because your only supposed to drive to and in, then home, from car shows or parades. They're $50 1 time but I would rather pay per year for a current tag. A friend from high school that's a Police Officer say's "Not to draw too much attention by running antique plates. The crack dealers use old cars with antique plates". Cheap Bastards.