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$28.19 in Alabama for 1 year. Antique plates get pulled over alot around here because your only supposed to drive to and in, then home, from car shows or parades. They're $50 1 time but I would rather pay per year for a current tag. A friend from high school that's a Police Officer say's "Not to draw too much attention by running antique plates. The crack dealers use old cars with antique plates". Cheap Bastards.

Originally Posted by escanlon seeing as the op was asking where to buy the parts, the comments as to how you feel about them are not necessary. He wasn't asking for your opinion. To top it off with "go buy them at an accessory parts place" qualifies your answer as a dumb answer. Those mud guards (aka splash guards) are available from our sponsor - motorsports: http://www.thezstore.com/page/tzs/ctgy/sg the splash guards shown are custom molded for the year of the z and are the best fit i've seen in years. The style does differ for the front and rear as they fit to the fender outline very well. E. Reply: 72 OJ I See plenty of personal opinions given on this forum , and plenty have nothing to do with the original issue , I made a suggestion on where to find the item and placed my opinion on the item. In your profile I see that your Z has this guards, if this offends you.....not my intent......life is full of flavors Also if you make a call to a quote , use the entire line and not a part of it to justify an offense. Mud flaps are a touchy subject it seems. I'm glad I've made my decision.

I had a friend whose Dad gave him a '75 Z. Perfect car, goldish brown color, ran great. He cut the roof out for a targa top and the car bent in the middle. He had a welding shop weld 2"x2" angle iron down the underside rails and got stuck on a speed bump at our mall. That's one funny story for me. Thanks for the memories Greg.

Here's something that may help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42420-77-280z-head-removal-step-by-step-photos Lots of pictures. I'm sure the Factory Service Manual for '75 thru '78 would have a diagram. Here's the one for the '78. http://www.jdmgallery.com/information/s30-manuals/s30/

It will sun dry again today and then I'll put in the other half quart for a second layer Monday or Tuesday. Then it will be sitting for at least a month as my engine is in hundreds of pieces in my spare bedroom. The directions say when you can no longer smell the sealer it's alright to recoat. I noticed this morning it has some runs coming down from the top down the sides. Not very happy with that but I'm hoping it won't cause problems down the road. I want to put a glass filter before the fuel rail also and hopefully not see any pinkish fuel.

Beautimous Z.

I used 1/2 gallon of muratic acid mixed with 1/2 gallon of water and swished around for about 10 minutes then drained and put 1 box baking soda mixed together with 2 gallons of hot water and swished around then drained. Used a leaf blower to dry up the inside then poured in a quart of acetone and swished and shook for a few minutes then hit it with the leaf blower and an air hose. Poured in a quart of Red Kote and rolled all around and still drained out almost a half of the quart. I'll definitely apply a second coat in a day or so. Worked great and was alot easier than I was expecting.

That's what I was worried about, BFD (if that means what I think). Thanks.

I saw an opened up exhaust here http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html and the 2 1/2 pipe was reduced down to a hole not much bigger than quarter in that paticular resonator. I'm sure they're not all like that but I don't want to buy the wrong one and have that kind of reduction in my $500 exhaust. I do like the one Walter used.

I've got the MSA 6 to 1 header and the 2.5" premium exhaust. Everyone speaks of the horrible drone? at highway speed. I thought a drone killed terroists, so it I'd rather not have to deal with it. Whats the best glass pack to buy? I do not want a resonator. Thanks for any suggestions.

Finally I'm down to 3 bags of bushings. The best help tool was a small bottle jack, by the way. My question regards the front control arms and the rear control arms as well as the 4 bump stops, that's the 3 bags left. I will be replacing my stuts after I get all this other stuff done, probably next year. Won't I have to disassemble the control arms when replacing the struts? And don't these bump stops go at the top of my struts? I'm so sick of that silicone like grease I want to wait until the strut job to finish with the bushings. Thanks for any replies. Cliff

I bought an '88 325is in '98 for $3500, sold it in '10 with 300k on the odometer for $1000. Put 2 slave cylinders and a new driveshaft plus routine stuff, tires and sparkplugs. So far the very best car I've owned. I beat the crap out of that 6 cylinder.

That's good enough for me. Blue you have saved my a** many times. Thank you.

I'm working in that area and thought I'd go on and change it out. I've read flush with diesel fuel. I've read synthetic is best, Redline, and also read not to put syn in something that has had "dinosaur dope for 30yrs". Blue's tech tip says to flush out but doesn't say what to use. Please share 280z tried and true expieriences. Thanks for any replies.

Kurbycar32 that is such a distinguishing sound! Good ears.

I had to make my own too. It didn't leak.

That book is the best step by step instructions I've ever had. He even cracks a joke every know and then. I don't know the proper term, 1st person or 2nd person, but he writes like he's talking to you throwing in short cuts when usable. $19.95 w/free shipping from amazon.com. I'm glad I bought it but you've done very well with your books it looks like.

How to Rebuild your L series by Tom Monroe suggest putting only water in the cooling system when 1st cranking. Also because of no air flow he says put a hose pipe in filler hole and opening the drain on the radiator so it's not overflowing then you'll have cool water circulating. New parts cause friction creating extra heat for the first 20 minutes at 1500 rpm that he suggest. I haven't read anything on priming the cooling jackets before the thermostat opens. I guess I'll fill the block with water before installing the thermostat or just leave out the thermostat? More research! I'm rebuilding mine also as a 1st timer. Good luck with your's.

I am glad you got your tie rods replaced without too much blood or blue fingernails.

A rear engine with the body in front?

It's really easier than I was thinking, maybe because it's a 280 and I had read bad expirences from people with 240s. Remove that shield behind passengers rear tire the night before and spray those 3 hose clamps and the 14mm bolts for the tank straps with your choice of lubricate, I use 50/50 acetone and ATF. And like Blue did, leave the sending unit in the tank just unplug the 2 wire connection in your hatch. Like a dumb*** I took mine out and lost the O-ring. I've ordered Red Kote to line my tank, a quart was $25 of ebay and read the instructions online and it sounds simple or "idiot proof" as someone said on here before. Here's a link to the instructions http://damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf

I did it just like Blue's Tech Tips and it was easy with plenty of pictures, but it's a 280 like he has. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

Thank's for preventing that mess! Glad to here from someone who has used it 1st hand. Melted Jolly Ranchers. Great description, I've seen that plenty of times down here in the Deep South.

I've ordered a quart for my tank and if I have any extra I thought I could do the calipers. I'll have to read the msda info when it gets here. Might not be a deep enough red either, I don't want fuschia brakes.

I read somewhere to use a adjustable shower curtain rod from inside of the tires across to the other beforehand then after install recheck with the curtain rod, now that's Shade Tree but if it works?