siteunseen

Yes it's the code stamped on there. I carried that single key to a locksmith and he cut an exact copy by those numbers, it was the only key that came with the car and I needed one to zip-tie under the rear bumper for a spare. Actually I asked him to grind off the edges of the new key as it was a little tough to turn in the old locks.

Here you are. It could be a dealer bought copy now that I see that in the owners manual

I'm can't say 100% sure but the man said it's the original. I don't think it's a copy. I'll get you a better picture when the sun comes up.

I think it would be easier to find Bigfoot than information on injectors. It's a conspiracy.

Here's an original '77 key. Taken with my phone so not so good, sorry. Under the big N it says Nissan Motors.

Thank You Fastwoman. Always great info from you.

Is that the FJ3 injector? It seems like they have quit making those by looking at all the online parts stores. Most have "only 3 left" or "wholesaler closeout". Do they have the small hole at the tip or the opened up one with the square with small hole at the tip? I realize you haven't seen them 1st hand so PLEASE let us know when you do. I've got to get mine and there's nothing but generic pictures online so once again I'm confused. Thanks.

I'm not sure of the "wrap around style" but I like these for the injection fittings. They are solid bands. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5-16%22-Automotive-Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamp-(4-Pack)-Autocraft_89016085-P_N3055_A%7CGRP2014_____

I can get these for about the same price. Standard Motor FJ3s off ebay $165 or FJ707Ts from rockauto for $169. I know Fastwoman uses the FJ3s and likes them. Anybody running the 707Ts?

I used lacquer thinner from a paint store, about $10 a gallon, and a heavy duty de-greaser from a bar-b-q restaurant I do maintenance for which was free. Scotch brite scouring pads (also from the restaurant) a round wire brush for a drill and alot of that elbow grease you speak of. Cleaned internal parts as well as intake, valve cover and suspension parts. Oh yeah get some of those toothbrush looking wire brushes out of the welding section at Lowes. Lacquer thinner for the really greasy then finished up with the degreaser and hot water. I'm happy with the results and carb cleaner is pretty much lacquer thinner but more expensive. My .01 cents worth of advice.

That new thread would be great. I thought about it so I'll watch yours. Thanks Captain!

Since mine is on an engine stand I would be able to do as Jeff suggest, install then remove then reinstall fairly easy. Captain Obvious's situation makes me think I wouldn't loose too much oil by removing the pump anyway. Thank you both for the information.

This is from member "steve91tt", "The OEM pump will move lots of oil. If it were me I'd clean it up and put it back on. If you find you don't have good oil pressure then swap it for another. The pump is easy to change with the motor in the car. If you are worried about oiling I would remove the distributor/oil pump drive shaft and turn the pump with a power drill. You should get lots of oil through each of the holes in the spray bar in the head. When I did this with mine I was surprised to see that oil was leaking out around the spray bar fittings thus reducing the oil that made it to the cam. I made a tool to turn the pump by cutting the handle off of a long flat blade screw driver. I picked one up at sears for a few bucks. Works great." Maybe he will see this and tell us because I'm not sure either. In Tom Monroe's book he notes that you must "time the oil pump" with the shaft's mark and a mark on the pump's tube. pages 134-136.

I am slowly putting everything back together and would like to eliminate any future headaches. It did keep a high RPM for about 5 seconds when I came to a stop. So it's going in the "extra parts box". Reading old post from SEARCH is nothing like 1st hand experience. Thank you all for your replies.

Could somebody that has taken their BCDD off tell me whether they like not having it or wish they hadn't removed it. Thanks for any replies.

Dead on. I ended up using red Loctite though, thin film too. And my Dad said that was why people call them "freeze plugs" because colder makes them shrink but by the time you get them coated and ready for hammer time they'd be back to normal size so it makes no sense to to him. I like your reasoning too, makes perfect sense. Thank you for responding.

That's the instruction book I'm using, ha! Thanks Bonzi Lon. He says use silicone (pic #3) but alot of newer stuff I'm reading says no silicone anywhere because of it "rolling up" and breaking off then clogging something up. They swear by that Permatex brush on gasket sealer but Loctite has also been mentioned. Seems like Loctite would be the best but I thought I'd ask. Also read that brass could blow out due to pressure before the thermostat opens. Anybody had that problem? Seems plausible because brass is intended for marine motors that don't build as much pressure.

Should I use Loctite or brush on gasket sealer? Will freezing them make them easier to go in? Parts guy suggested getting them cold. Thanks for any replys.

E-mailed Melling tech and he suggested their 152. I bought one from Advance online with promo code for $55. They're a little heavier than aluminum but I don't mind a pound or so up front.

1/2 of a tube of grease, 1/2 of a day trying to find 1/4" clamp for dust boot but it's over and I'm happy.

What about the mud flaps?

I want a 240!

I can only find under trouble shooting in steering section #6 Noises- replenish grease but nothing else. Mine has a plastic rod that looks like it goes all the way through and of course I broke part of it off trying to pull it out. Could I drive that through or just leave it alone?

Thank you! That's going to be a great help.

I haven't gotten that far yet, sorry. Rebuilding the motor and replacing dry rotted bushings presently. I was thinking I could lay 2ft piece of similar size wood and transfer the measurments.