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I just put mine in high gear and rolled it to turn the motor. Bad idea when I asked the good folks on here because of what Zforce says about tension on the chain. Someone showed me that one can be bought from Autozone for $15. So I bought one and use it all the time now. It's alot quicker for the hot valve adjustment. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Actron-10-Amps-remote-starter-trigger-switch-with-heavy-duty-neoprene-leads-medium-current-clips-open-to-1-2-in-rubber-boots-and-ergonomic-handle/_/N-25eo?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=remote+starter&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=476887_0_0_

I've been reading a lot at atlanticz. I've found that "Yutaka Katayama" translates to "Blue" in English. Seriously though, Mr Blue has made anyone that owns a Zs life a little better. He should do a book and get rich then move somewhere warmer.

Thank you guys. I'm going to do what you suggest. Another $30 or so bucks plus the Hyper-Flex for night and day diffrence sounds great.

Thank you Blue. Nothing but respect from your knowledge. I have '77 280 and will read up on the ball and socket tension-compression rod kit.

I want new rubber bushings on my car while the motors out. Do you all use Energy Suspension, Hyper-Flex? It's the most complete and most reasonably priced I've found, http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/es-7-18102.html, experience, advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ahead. Cliff.

Whow!

Try communicating with t***2, the winning bidder. He might help you find out where the wheels are. Probably they're in his garage. PayPal should do something. Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

I'm thinking this was the write up that made my decision. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ scroll down to #11, exhaust system. I have the ceramic coated one and it has a finish that looks like stainless steel, kinda hate putting it on it looks so good sitting on my guest bed.

My #6 stud was broken also and had a bad leak so I read & read and decided on the MSA 6 to 1 because I will upgrade to the 2.5" premium system they have and most of the members like that set up. Easy installation from what I've read. But, and a big but! was while I'm this far how much more trouble would this be......and so on. Now I have 1/2 my motor in the hatch and the other on a table covered with a sheet. So 6-1 was my choice.

The driver's sitting position is completely different but both being great. In an early '80's SC I had, the closer to the dash and more up-right back position was like sitting at a piano pushing down the pedals. Loved it. Now I'm back in a Z car and love the distance from the dash and the straight out legs pushing the pedals foward. Both great cars to drive.

Casual communications indeed, amongst peers of a group with similar interest.

Just looked at and bought "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun ohc engine". Will be a good read for my 1st build. Thanks for that tip.

I know this is probably a boring read for all you veteran mechanics but I'm real happy with my progress. Got all the internals out of the block and is at the vat shop awaiting baptismal into the Holy Water, then a honing. A fresh spray or 3 on the block, black I'm thinking, no show car just a drivable Z. Put it in a trash bag until I can afford the fresh parts to build it back to stock. Disassembly was real easy, no FSM, but the reassemble will leave some greasy fingerprints on those 500 pages. I wish there was a way to make a living out of 35 year old cars, but they're ain't unless you have a reality show. It really is the personal saisfaction of knowing sometings done right. Amazingly still no bloody nuckles, band-aids, or stiches. Maybe an anti-soreness pill in the morning though.

Thanks guys. Hey it snowed one day last winter! We all complain about weather down here, it's 70 degrees one day and 40 the next, but over all I love our seasons. Anyway I was so nervous raising that hoist (I used 2" yellow ratchet straps for leveling) I ran around that car and crawled under there enough times to wear out a pair of soles on my boots. The worst part was the engine stand. The bolts I bought were too long so I had to put a wad of flat washers on each bolt. Doesn't look very strong and I was scared to release the pressure off the hoist to the stand. Honestly I left the strap and hoist hooked up for an hour to make sure the engine stand would hold the block. It's holding fine and I've rotated it over and pulled the pan. Black as coal and almost as hard (the sludge) so I'm really glad I decided to go ahead and rebuild.

I've been stressing this for 2 months now. Had good compression but couldn't clean and paint what I wanted to with the motor still in. I had decided to leave the block in and enjoy driving it for a while. But I don't do very well in the cold months so I figured a good project would keep me from going crazy this winter. So I decided to rebuild the motor and clean up the engine bay over the winter and have the car painted this spring. Would have never thought I could do this by myself but after reading hundreds of post and asking for advice and tips on the removal I finally did it, by myself, and it was very easy. Thanks again to all.

Those are the ones I'm going to get. Some other members also are using them. I found an O-ring kit on ebay for around $25. Might as well get those replaced too.

I'm still new here also but have learned enough to wear a Nissan shop shirt, grease and all! I know you'll enjoy working on your new toy. Being from the south, I'm up I-10/I-59 north in Alabama, we're lazy as hell which is ok because these cars are pretty simple plus the help from other owners is unbelievable. This's a great car club so be sure and join, you'll get discounts at some places. Have fun. Oh yeah, times 10 on that patience, they're old cars.

I didn't know my MSA ceramic coated header was stainless steel.

You can do what was recommended to me. Run a fuel pressure gauge off a "T" after the OE fuel filter with about 5ft. of hose. Zip-tie it to your drivers wiper blade then go for a ride. Take a pad and pencil, write down the pressure and then clean out your gas tank.

If you still want to know where the pump screen is there is a small cone shaped screen in the "in" port (coming from the tank) on my factory fuel pump. Comes out real easy and is real fragile. I used tweezers. I put the clear $5 G3 Fram fuel filter right out of the tank before the fuel pump.

That article reads a little suspicious to me. Surf shorts and 1 million in $50 notes. When I found that wallet with 15 hundred dollar bills in a booth the only thing in it besides the money was a pack of J&B 1.25's (rolling papers). And it took him 2 days to figure out where he left it!

I supose it's the lack of air and not the temperature for a fuel injected space shuttle. Oops.

Could or is fuel injection used in aviation? Would that allow more altitude without the freezing problems? If I'm looking at the right picture it looks cool as hell but a little over my mechanical and financial abilities. Thanks for the information though. I've read too much on building fuel rails and am over thinking the project. Alot of dicussion about vapor lock from hot fuel so the milled fins came into my plan. Now I realize they're for looks on a car like mine. I'm going to get the smooth "D" rail from Ross Racing and without polishing it, spray with high heat clear coat. It'll stand out a little over my satin black (bar b-q paint) intake.

Zed Head you're a genius! Fins work on hot air cooled engines. Didn't see it that way, thanks. The fuel rail would already be cold not hot, right? I'll be using heat shields too, bought a header with ceramic thermo coat, so it shouldn't get hot. Oh the "Shirley" thing's from Leslie Neilson in the movie Airplane. Corny, I know.

Here's the fuel rail that looks better. http://www.azspeed-marine.com/furaex.html it's finned or milled. Whatever, but also read "Milling fins into any surface will increase the available surface area for heat to dissipate from. Increased air flow across the fins would keep the rail cooler."