siteunseen

FastWoman could you please read my thread "Fuel Pressure Compatibility". I would really appreciate your opinion of that adjustable MSD 2222 regulator. If that would work on my car, and if that's my problem, it may make up for that ECU drift you spoke of. I can get one off ebay for $20 more dollars than a non adjusting BWD from Advance, they're $57.99 and the adjustable one is $79 w/free shipping.

It looks like some kind of breathalyzer attached to wiper blade and kind of works like one. The more beer I drank the worse the car ran.

Spoken like a true Philosopher. I've had that problem my whole life, I get something in my head and start obsessing on that one thing. Thank you Mr. Putnam for reminding me to think of all the small things that make up the big picture. I've been couped up this past week from all the rain we've had and gone crazy thinking about that FPR. I apologize to all for being kind of lazy and hoping for a quick answer for my low psi. I've downloaded FSM and will try to figure it out.

Just got through looping the neighborhood (cops probably soon to come) about 4 times. with the gauge on drivers windshield blade. start up 24psi, cold. patted throttle went down to 22psi. started my 1st loop medium warmth 24psi, up a hill climbed to 28psi, back down other side dropped to 24psi. middle gauge heat range (hot) 24psi, rev up drops to 20 to 22psi. hot idle 24psi @800rpm. ran terrible. unplugged TPS, ran worse, got a little smoother after 3k rpm. plugged back up TPS. unhooked vacuum line from bottom of FPR and clamped it from intake side. 34psi and ran way better until I got caught at redlight. maintained 34psi but sputtered and fluttered until excess gas burnt off then ran like a jacked leg rabbit which was very strong and quick. when running so well psi was between 32 & 34. I'm no mechanic, more a maniac but I am pretty sure it runs better with the higher psi when vacuum to FPR is clamped off. $64k question, what is the problem? thanks for any input, I'll try anything.

Just got through looping the neighborhood (cops probably soon to come) about 4 times. with the gauge on drivers windshield blade. start up 24psi, cold. patted throttle went down to 22psi. started my 1st loop medium warmth 24psi, up a hill climbed to 28psi, back down other side dropped to 24psi. middle gauge heat range (hot) 24psi, rev up drops to 20 to 22psi. hot idle 24psi @800rpm. ran terrible. unplugged TPS, ran worse, got a little smoother after 3k rpm. plugged back up TPS. unhooked vacuum line from bottom of FPR and clamped it from intake side. 34psi and ran way better until I got caught at redlight. maintained 34psi but sputtered and fluttered until excess gas burnt off then ran like a jacked leg rabbit which was very strong and quick. when running so well psi was between 32 & 34. I'm no mechanic, more a maniac but I am pretty sure it runs better with the higher psi when vacuum to FPR is clamped off. $64k question, what is the problem? thanks for any input, I'll try anything.

So does this mean the same thing "The B.E.G.I. regulators are designed specifically to add fuel to EFI engines modified with turbos, superchargers, and normally aspirated. This is accomplished by using the manifold vac/pressure to drive the fuel pressure up as the boost rises, or with the N/A engines, as the vacuum goes toward atmospheric"?

Will this work on my '77 if I need one? "These MSD boost adjustable regulators are designed for turbo or supercharged engines. As boost pressure increases, more fuel is required by the engine. These regulators feature a boost reference circuit that adds more fuel in relation to boost pressure." Seems like boost would be the opposite of vacuum. I have a stock motor. What do you all think?

Well with high pressure fuel line @$6.49 a foot I've decided to cram a "little person" politicly correct? under the hood and let one of his little fickle fingers point out the culprit. That was mean but damn that hose is high! A friend of mine rear-ended a car driven by a little person the other day. He asked him if he was ok and he said "well I'm not Happy".

Rocks throw from Attalla; Gadsden. And yes we do have Autozones. Isn't there a big time drag strip in Gainsville? No it's Commerce and we drive through Gainsville. I think?

Nope. I'm in a fairly small, 30k people I think, town and the only place that had one was Ed's Foreign Car Parts for $59.99 but it was much larger with heavier wire 12ft I think. Anyway let me have this one, it's $0 dollars.

With the plugs out and in high gear I could roll the car, which moves the cam, with one arm. Read that on here and it works great. Remote starter was $60 so I was going to buy 27mm socket, remove fan, borrow 1/2 pull bar and turn balancer bolt. I'm learning.

That's a very simple solution for reading Fp. And your exactly right, I am chasing my tail because I don't know my tail from my elbow with all these variances on a 34 year old EFI system.

Ok I just drove around the neighborhood for awhile. It has rained all weekend so I didn't put it "under load on the open road" just quick throttle advances in my garage. It ran really well at 1st, cold, but then went to crap when heated up. So I hooked the vacuum back to the FPR and it went back to low 20's psi. Barely made it up a hill near my house but after the hill it ran really strong. Maybe I should take off the AFM and clean it and the connector maybe even figure out how to adjust it? Or maybe the FPR really could be bad. I'm stumped but so happy this is my biggest worry. Thanks again.

I clamped off fuel line right after the gauge before the metal fuel line at the front of the valve cover. It went to 48psi. Then when clamp was released and the fuel entered the fuel injection system it dropped to 25psi. Then I plugged the vacuum coming off the intake to the FPR and also plugged the bottom of the FPR it stays at a constant 32psi. I adjusted the valves cold & hot, set the timing at about 11 or 12 degrees BTDC and the car seems to run better than ever. Now that there is no vacuum associated with the FPR would that be considered a "non-rising regulator"? And will that be a negative move on my part? Maybe cause some kind of damage? I've been checking the plugs and they are a nice off-white color. Side note: this will all be re-adjusted when I do internal engine rebuild this winter. Thanks for your help.

I've done some looking around and found a MSD#2222 adjustable FPR from Summit Racing for $95 or $79 off E-bay. Or I could get the original equipment Bosch #W0133-1607752 for $99. I could never figure out how to "alter my coolant temp sensor circuit resistance" as you did. The MSD is a universial FPR with a range of 36psi to 45psi. I kinda' like it. Opinions?

Now that I can attach photos I just wanted to say my fuel gauge is exactly as FastWoman suggested, I had to get "T" from Napa as there is no TrueValue around here and used 2 5/16" hose barbs. Next I'm going to put in a vacuum gauge off the intake somehow. Love those gauges!

I'm wondering if the PO may have tried to loosen lock nut on valve 4 ? with a wrench a some type of hammer and got up against the head of the bolt and cracked it unkonowingly? Then maybe after time it broke completely off? I actually thought I took the valve cover off for the 1st time because of the badly out valves. Just trying to figure out what caused the bolt head to break off.

I put my pressure gauge in today and got some questional readings. Gauge attached to hose from filter reads 48 p.s.i, hooked to the fuel rail drops to 25. Unplug vacuum from FPR goes to 34. Plugged vacuum line from intake and ran it without FPR getting any vacuum. Runs waaay better. If I let it sit at idle for a few minutes it loads up. A couple of rev ups and it clears up. I'm hard headed and stuck on the idea that the FPR is bad. $60 dollar part, but if it ain't broke..... Any advice?

Oh wow! I've ordered a header from MSA and I'll have to try and fix broken head bolt when I do that install. I'd call them "female bolts" and the opened top part on all of them where filled with carbon like sludge. Shop Vac and small screwdriver cleaned them out. I adjusted the valves cold 1st this a.m when Autozone opened and I could buy the Crows Foot set for $15. So much easier with that than hammer and wrench I promise. And torqing them back down? Couldn't have done it otherwise. "I" couldn't have. Initially the hot readings were from the front back to firewall, .012 E, .012 I, .010 I, .014 E, .012 I, .015 E, .016 E, .013 I, .014 E, .012 I, .012 I, .014 E firewall. As I mentioned earlier adjusted cold @ .010 exhaust & .008 intake having never done this I was quite anxious so needed the trial run. Drove around the neighborhood and re-checked them "hot". Only had to re-adjust 2 out of 12. That ain't bad. So my method from here on will be to go cold then hot. Also cleaned fuel injector plug connections. It really isn't hard with all the advice I get from you guys. Thanks again. I'm gonna' leave it alone untill I get that header then I'll deal with the broken off head bolt. Great day spent with my car! Now for a beer or five.

Question for Gary in New Jersey. Is your paint #305? I'm talking about the car in your avatar picture. I like that.

I just tried using a rubber hammer, don't have a hard plastic, still won't budge. Valves were sooooo far from spec numbers they're in another county (trying to be funny). I think they've never been touched by American hands. Autozone has a set of Crows Foot sockets for $15. I'll be standing at their door when they open this a.m. Also found carbon filled head bolt rolling around inside. Should I try extracting broken bolt now? I'd rather wait until cooler weather gets down here but if it could cause any damage I would go on and do it. It's the one between #2 and #3 spark plugs. Will it be ok for a month or two? I had a '76 when I was in high school then bought a '78 for that extra gear but never turned a wrench on either one. Now 24 years later I found this '77 with a 5 speed and love working on it. Funny how time changes priorities. But it sure is hot & humid this morning.

Is it right hand or left hand thread? Can't break mine loose. Don't want to add something like a broken valve nut to my 100 items to do list. Thanks for any help.

Could Seafoam maybe break something loose and mess up my Fuel Pressure Regulator? When I unhook vacuum to FPR my car runs like it did before Seafoam (better).

Ordered the ceramic coated header instead. MSA said not to use them on that header. Can hardly wait for delivery.

I'm about to get MSA's 6 to 1 header (paintable) and was wondering about effectivness of their exhaust jackets. Are they something I need or just wasted money? Thanks for any advice.