siteunseen

The BCDD is exactly what it was. Tightened the nut and it went to normal idle. Thank you. Y'all could cure cancer.

Will that plastic part on back of the switch allow the key to turn to start and not let the key come out in any position? Curious as to whether those little inside parts need replacing or if the plastic part will cure my ignition problem. I would like to keep original key also. Locksmith?

When I push in the clutch at Stop Signs or Red Lights or any other time I'm about to stop my '77 stays between 2,000 & 2,500 RPM for about 5 seconds then falls down to normal idle. Any advice as to what it could be? Opened Throttle Switch, black box on manifold, looked like new. Air sprayed the dust and cleaned the plug-in with electrical cleaner then Dielectic grease. Still does it. So I think extra fuel is burning off but I don't know squat. Help.

Question for FastWoman. Do you think if I put the biggest "T" I could find with the gauge on it in the fuel return line beside the fuel filter it would be ok? Or still restrict gas flow and decrease pressure? I'm a gauge freak. The more the better.

This is better than Google or having to call Dad, whose a Chevy Man. Thank You.

I'm going to have to take out my ignition tumbler? and have a locksmith rebuild. Key turns to on but won't go over to spin starter. Also turns off after I jump starter with screwdriver. Bought a push button starter switch for now($5 bucks). Does it matter which wire goes to which on solenoid because button switch has no + or -. Hate to burn up something. Thanks.

I am happy to say that without the "T" fitting, and the gauge straight on fuel line before engine bay filter and after filter(had to be sure filter hadn't already clogged) was 48psi. So glad to read advice from Fastwoman about static reading, thank you, now I know that I needed a new fuel pump because now I need a set of wheelie-bars. Car runs great. All those fittings don't do well on fuel injection. I was going back to my fast boat days when you needed that fuel pressure gauge always in eye sight. No fuel would seize a piston in a second. But those days are gone. Still have a problem with brief high idle but that's another post. Thanks again.

Is there an easier way than wrapping a towel around fuel filter line? Maybe some kind of valve somewhere?

I have an oil-filled 0-100psi 1.5" from Autobahn88 I got off the internet installed with brass "T" fitting between fuel filter and hard fuel line in front of valve cover. It reads 25psi at idle then when I unhook vaccum at FPR it goes to 35 or 36psi. Can I just run hot wire from battery directly to fuel pump without damaging it ($260 pump) it has 1 large post terminal and 1 a little smaller. Would the larger be the power side? and the smaller the switch? Put the hot wire to the larger terminal? Then it would run constantly and I could get a static reading? I'm so sore this a.m it may be Friday before I could get under there again. I need a floor lift. Thank you for all your help FastWoman.

I went ahead and replaced the original fuel pump (had some sort of body filler type goop on terminals so I'm assuming it's factory) fuel lines and fuel injection clamps, never knew there was a difference, been broken down 2 too many times because of bad fuel pumps. So now I'm unplugging vaccum line from manifold to FPR. The suction is really strong from manifold but it runs rough so I clamped off vaccum and drove around neighborhood. Pulls real hard in 1st & 2nd then I run out of road and come to a stop and the motor is revving really high, 2,000-2,500, then it drops back down after 5 to 10 seconds. Hooked the vaccum line back to FPR after it was good and hot and it starts "burping" through air box upon acceleration. Read about FPR in the "bible" and it makes me think it needs to be replaced. I'm running out of paint job money. Any thoughts?

Thank you and what a great looking car you have.

Does anybody run this plug? Will my stock '77 like it?

I think the clear hose test is going to be my answer for weak pump. I'll do that as soon as I can. Thanks. Sorry about header question while y'all are helping me with fuel pressure, I get excited with all the info on here, I'll ask about exhaust when I get the car fine tuned. Thanks again for help.

I unhooked the FPR vaccum from the manifold and it jumped up to 32psi but as it got warmer it fell a few psi's and idled terribly rough. The suction is from the manifold side so do I need to replace FPR valve as well or is it supposed to be that way? Thinking pretty much about going ahead and putting the Bosch pump on, might worry too much any distance away from the barn, because I also put a glass inline fuel filter ahead of the stock filter and before fuel rail. It would sort of surge every few seconds with air bubbles so I put in the fuel pressure gauge. What do y'all think about Pacesetter 6-2-1 headers? I have to replace the exhaust gasket and stud closest to windshield. Thought about the headers with glass pack in place of cat converter. Thanks for all the help.

Hello everyone. 1st post so I hope it's done right. I bought a '77 in pretty good shape. Hadn't been driven in awhile but would crank and run. Drained the tank, cleaned out cone shaped filter in fuel line from tank. Seemed to rev up better but when I took it for a drive fell flat after 3,000 rpm. Put fuel gauge in between filter and fuel rail and it shows 25psi at idle but when I give it gas it goes down to 20psi. Should I put new fuel pump on? Found Bosch at Advanced for $240.00 after 20% off $300.00. Does the fuel dampner/regulator ever get out of adjustment? Could it be that? Still holding at 22psi after not being cranked for 12 hours. Also have been cleaning all grounds and bullet connectors. Clear Fram G-3 filter out of gas tank and its still nice and clean. Advise me please. Second opinions are great. Thank you all.