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I used red kote because of the price difference, $20 qt. at O'Reilly's or off ebay, I've put about 1,000 miles on mine since doing all the work and the glass filter I have right before the fuel rail has never had the slightest bit of color as in pink or reddish looking fuel in it and I check it every time I drive the car. I'm happy with what I did and I'd never done anything like that before. Get some 5 gallon buckets for the acid/water mixing and go ahead and mix the soda/water for neutralizing the acid once you empty it out. I hung my tank from a tree limb with nylon straps for draining and drying. Drain the acid in another bucket and pour it on any ant beds in your yard, it kills the sh*t out of them. It will take about 2 hours if you take your time. Plan everything out ahead of time and wear rubber gloves and something over your mouth and eyes because of the fumes from the acid. A leaf blower works good in the fill hole for drying. Red Kote has directions you could read online before deciding what you want to use. I took pictures through the fill hole and the sending unit hole with a flashlight in one hole and camera in the other. I over thought it when I did mine, don't make that mistake, it's not hard you just need everything ready before you start. And like Bonzi Lon says the longer you can let it cure the better, mine wasn't needed for a month so it sat with all the holes open for air flow. Read all you can before you do it. Motorcycle people use muratic acid all the time. Thumper Talk has lot's of info.

Try it yourself first. Muratic acid then baking soda works great. $20

That's Flex Fuel!

Y'all remember the Mako Shark Corvette from '61? Saw one of those at a World of Wheels when I was a youngster in the early '70's. " The concept inspired the 1963 Corvette Sting-Ray", from Wikipedia.

Bare of paint or dull from lack of clear? You could get a cover that's weather proof then drive it to the paint shop.

They're all over e-bay, if I'm reading right or left to right.

That's a great looking car, automatic and all. Neighbors with benefits.

I was noticing how bad those trees look too.

That looks great!

I've got 700 miles on my fresh motor and decided it was going to stay together after all, my first build on L motor. The sun shined down and a 928 with a younger guy with blue sunglasses was looking over at a stop light. After shifting to 3rd he had enough and backed off. Big ole smile on my face and my dog, Jelly, seemed to like it too. Gotta figure out a seat belt for her. Anybody know of something?

I recently did mine so here's some links: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45883.html. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45676.html. It's not as bad as I first thought but you need to get everything together before you start, kinda quick on all the steps. Then make sure and put a Fram G-3 clear plastic fuel filter right out of the tank, search Fram G-3 and you'll find lots of info. You can do it! Blue's tips on the PLOP! are great.

Here's some white smoke inside the vehicle.

It's above the spare tire-well to the right, by the tool bag and jack on my '77. About 6" circle.

In the hatch by your spare tire you'll find an circle shaped cover with 3 screws. Take that off and get a screwdriver and hammer and unlock the tank access. Then remove the fuel gauge sensor and take a LED light and look down into the tank. You'll see rust if there is any.

Nice car, even parked.

I'd bet your car has a permanent BOLO for it. 1 mean arse looking car!

Fine looking carpet. I hope mine looks that good some time soon.

I actually just used Permatex High Heat PTFE Thread Sealer. It says fully cured in 72 hours, so after that I'm baking it my oven set to at least 300 F. Then polishing up like Zedy_Kenobi's. If it leaks again I'll have the fittings brazed in. Also they're will be a fire extinguisher behind the seat from now on. Thanks for the replies. Cliff

Yeah, I'm laughing.

I'm trying to figure out if Teflon tape would melt on my fuel fittings at the fuel rail. I soaked the yellow over night in a jar of fuel and it held up great. Now I'm wondering if it might melt out when the motor gets up to temp. I'm thinking it may be a good thing for it to melt in to the threads? Maybe seal even better. I could put it the oven when I get it all back together and see. Maybe 300 degrees? More or less? I'm using the heat shields and I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. Appreciate any replies. Thanks Cliff Edit: sorry, I forgot the Wikipedia page. It says 621 F.

I read that too, Blue. Pink is thicker than yellow. Also read the 1st Atomic Bomb is credited for non-stick cookware.

Thanks guys. I had some but thought of it as a natural gas only. But the good ole internet brings out the truth.

So proud of my fuel rail and now it has a small leak on the line to the FPR. I used Permatex red gasket adhesive for thread sealer, stupid I realize now, it was high temp and claimed to be fuel resistant but it ain't! My neighbor who is a HVAC contractor said I should use flux and plumbing solder on the brass fuel barbs then screw them into the aluminium fuel rail. Anybody have any thoughts or experiences? Zedyone_kenobi what did you use for thread sealer?

On my '77 dash-pot there's a small brass screw under that white cap, very small, jewelers screwdriver small. Spray the protruding rod with some slickum and adjust the screw. Mine works good with about 1/4" movement on the throttle mechanism. If that's the problem. What about unplugging the BCDD for a test drive? It has 1 wire that has a bullet connector below the coil.

I wanted to get a fresh motor right off the bat, before paint and then the interior. So I guess I'm a little of all 3.