Pleadingbark

I still have the car. Its been many many thousands of dollars. Just recently put air suspension on it so I could get it in and out of my drive way. It gets driven 4-5 times a year, so happy with how its turned out.

Crap.

So will a 75 gas tank bolt into a 70?

Also have my 1970 tag on it, but its not pictured. Has an L28 w/ 5spd in it now and a new clutch/flywheel (350z setup).

300$ for the motor set with header tranny all that stuff not sure what Im going to do with the l24

Its an old datsun, that description makes it sound like an old ferrari.

Looking to tuck the wiring harness that runs along the frame rails on my 240z and wondering the best place to relocate the wiring to. I've already gotten rid of the external voltage regulator, but I feel theres still more I can loose. Has anyone got any pointers or a thread dedicated to this?

I will investigate that when I get home. Im also leaning towards the timing being way out of wack on it. I know its been jetted for an l28 with raised compression (8.9:1) and a webb 155 cam. Currently I have a stock n42 head'd l28 with a cam (not sure of grind but its not loopy at idle). The carbs ran great on my l24 with stock exhaust. The l28 has a 6-1 to 2.5in exhaust. Would that effect things greatly I'd presume? If you go 100% throttle it stops popping at low RPM which leads me to believe its too lean?

Honestly not sure, I pulled it off and stuck the l24/pertronix unit in its place. I assume that shouldnt change anything since its basically the same motor, just larger?

Recently I swapped motors in my 240z. Long and short of it is I cant get spark from the l28's distributor but when I stick my 240z's pertronix equipped distributor on the car sparks and runs. I know the l28 ran in the car we pulled it from but for whatever reason it didnt want to spark at all in my car. We changed nothing but the distributors/brackets between the pair of motors. Is there going to be an issue running this distributor on the car?

So now it pops through the carbs at about 2000rpm to 2800 rpm and again above 5k. Is this typically a sign of being too lean? Its running triple webs.

Both sound pretty crappy. I wouldnt even make an offer. I'd tell him thanks but no thanks. 280z's are a dime a dozen

Totes my opinion on them. On my friends 240z they work great though, on mine not so much.

Seriously the best investment ever in regards to drive ability. I can let the car sit for 2 weeks, turn the key on, hit the gas 2-3 times and it starts right up. After its been driven for the day just start it right up. Its fantastic.

Not sure yet, havent gotten to drive it on the road, still working out exhaust and gotta bend the shifter so I can put the console back in. Yessir, Makes the car run so much better than the garbage stock SU's. Not sure, previous owner got it put in 15x9 0 offset. Im thinking of going with 15x9 -5 in front and -15 in rear though.

Someone stole my motor. Looked around for a while then found this one: Then finally back together: went from l24/4spd to l28/5spd with a cam. Cut some donuts with it right after getting in and its a blast. Makes some great noise.

Got everything in, cut the tranny tunnel and now just need to bend or reweld a shifter up so it quits hitting the front of the console. Just kept the stock drive shaft in.

Ok, I have a few 5 speed z/x shifters, and a friend that does fabrication, Im sure we can get somethign to work.

Im putting a l28 with the zx 5spd into my 70 240z. I've read its all straight forward from what I've seen, but I have 2 questions, first being do I have to do anything to the transmission tunnel or shifter hole, and secondly do I need the drive shaft from the car im getting this out of?

Signed up on the registry with mine.

Thats my thoughts also or a 2.6 stroker..... Im going to try mine here shortly on the dyno. Just has triple webers and an ansa muffler. Spins 1st no problem chirps 2nd and chirps 3rd. I have a smaller web 155 grind cam an a 6-1 header for it also. I figure with all that and a 2.25 or 2.5 in exhaust I should be near 200. Also have an electronic ignition to install at some point (Mallory 6al). 70k motor w/ e31 head stock.

i wanna get one over here in the US some how....

Triple webers are on and installed. Debating about putting on a header though.

I'd take that 6k offer and run. I bought my 1 owner 70 with 69k for 1800 in similar shape, after sitting for 10 years.

I left the original wire on the alternator post also. It was a thick white and red or black striped wire. Zs-ondabrainSo lets get this figured out........ Did you buy the adaptor plug (280ZX alternator adaptor plug) from Motorsport, and install it? No made my own. Oddly enough if I dont plug anything in there it will start and turn off fine, but if I just put jumpers in it wont turn off. The little adapter plug I made jumps the connections and allows the car to turn off. If no, then there's your problem. If yes, are there any broken wires on the engine harness side of the Voltage regulator plug? Yes Im missing a wire from the plug. I unloomed the harness in the engine bay up to the firewall and I cant find where there would have ever been a trace of the wire. Have you ran an 8 guage wire from the back of the alternator to the starter power bolt? Yes thats what I ultimately ended up doing. When you do this, the ammeter gauge will barely move anymore do to the 8 gauge wire basically bypassing the meter. Oh, that explains everything. Is there a way to run that ammeter wire to a different positive source, or should I just really worry about it? So if it helps, List step by step what yo've done and the result of that action. Dave