oranngetang

Moelk, thanks for being guinea pig on this. I've been watching thos FAJS carbs as well and would even dive in on a group buy. They make the EMPI VW carbs and people seem to like them. Replaced motor mounts yesterday. Engine still bangs while cranking, no idea what it is. I also want to point out that L28 kits of these are being posted all over ebay.com.au for near Weber prices.

Was this a Silvermine brake kit by any chance?

I'm running a mechanical on mine still. You noticed a difference from stock? I'm curious if you ever discussed triples with Dave, or if he mentioned there would be gains over the 48mm SU's going to an OER, Mikuni/Solex or Webers. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Moelk, I've spent all morning looking at triples online.... What do you have for an engine in that thing? 40s or 45s? Mikuni, OER or Webber? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's funny that it seems 90% of comments regarding extending the exhaust tip or running side pipes won't make any difference, when it clearly does. I ran dual exits before the rear axle and there is NO exhaust coming in the cabin anymore. That said, the muffler and plumbing are getting just wrecked on these roads. Will probably try something like you did. Over the past few days, installed NRG steering hub and NRG quick release, Grip Royal Blackwood Grain wheel. Pulled fuel tank and soldered up a crack in the lower vent line seem. Pulled rear diff cover, tapped new M12x1.75 helicoil, locktite and impact BOLTS to mustache bar. Remounted. Found 2 bolts sheared and missing from AZC front control arm. Replaced. Appears rear strut tower steel has separated from inner skin. Creaking and banging on both sides. Sealant is cracked the entire length of seam. Don't know what to do there. Installed wilwood prop valve in front of parking brake handle for rear brake balance. Installed and fabricated bracket in tunnel to mount wilwood 5/8" MC for factory handbrake lever actuation. Works. Removed stock prop valve at rear axle. Bled brakes. Replaced front hub dust caps, repacked bearings. Still waiting on speedo cable... Emailed GC several times over the past couple months. They're officially refusing to reply or acknowledge they ****ed up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What sort of resonator did you go with? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Was there any prior leaks or sweats in the tank that the por15 sealed up?

Making me want to do mine... Getting tired of the sweating seems Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Installed a pair of 7" H4 housings and bulbs from KC to replace the silly sealed beams. Broke only 2 of 8 screws holding the buckets in, and spent an hour or so swearing at the car before getting them somewhat in place. The MSA headlight covers are pretty much the biggest pain in the arse I need to regularity deal with. They're new, and both have cracked, and they scratch inanely easily. Next time they come off they're going in the trash. The buckets are rotted and both adjustment mechanisms are beyond repair, but the clearer lens and h4 bulb's ease of future replacement are a must. Lame KC logo on the bottom of the reflector housing, but not too obvious. These shipped with decent Philips 9003 bulbs installed, if anyone has wondered... KC doesn't specify other than 55w. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

FYI, since WCR has shut down my differential hunt also came to an end. I'm running a welded 3.36 and am in dire need of an LSD and a 4.11 would be perfect. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm sure the new owner will enjoy it just as much as you did!

Yeah, but with the strut towers cut off in the fashion they are, there are 'dusty' looking exhaust stains on the hatch glass above them. The fumes are pretty well pumped into the cabin as soon as I crack a window. With the side pipes this isn't happening. There are a few members on hybridz and the like who have chimed in on threads where people are asking about the plausibility of side pipe exhaust cures, who have reported success. Oddly the majority of folks are saying side pipes would make problem worse, or just post links to gasket sets or gasket replacement threads to rectify the issue for a stock car. Now the only odor is the sweaty fuel tank residue, so that'll be attempt 3 at fixing that... The rich idle is definitely the worst exhaust smell but it's only ever present in the garage or sitting I stagnant traffic. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Last week, being sick and tired of the exhaust fumes in the Z, I cut out my exhaust, bought a cheap glass pack from Canadian Tire, a 90 and some tube to fab up a side exit before the rear axle. Preliminary test seemed to reduce exhaust gas smell in the cabin, but was insanely loud so I was avoiding city driving all together. The noise this engine can make is for lack of a better word, 'sexual'. Managed to convince myself to do a dual exit a couple of days ago and buy a single in - dual out short muffler and more pipe, the result was barely any exhaust smell, ever. I used a chambered round resonator I had, followed by the muffler and the idle was very raspy and any revs over 3000 were somewhat monotone and uneventful, and felt restricting. Today, I bought an 18" glass pack to replace the resonator and welded it into the same location. Nicer and sharper sounding idle and revs, with a little more noise in the high end too... Still sounds kind of uneventful in the high revs. I'll try this out for a week or so before buying some tips and shortening up the tail pipes. No exhaust fumes though!

For any future reference, those guys that say a glass pack works ok as long as it's long enough (longer is quieter) didn't use this one. A 28" thrush glass pack is definitely way too loud for any kind of street use, but worth a good laugh, lots of stares and what feels to be slight butt dyno gains. Louder than anything, ever, loud enough to burn out a headlight I'm saying. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cut out my exhaust and welded up a side exit in front of RL wheel, went for a burn and the exhaust issue seems unchanged... Wondering though since I'll be redoing this what a good sounding muffler would be for a 3L at only 10:1 through a 2.5" pipe. I'm more about rich high rev sounds than rumble heavy idle... A resonator shaped flow through would be easiest for me if those work... Ie glass pack, dunno how they sound. What might this 3L through 45mm OERs at 1:50 for example be running... Hard to judge daily driver loudness I suppose. This 3L through 45mm OERs at 1:50 for example Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk