oranngetang

Moelk, thanks for being guinea pig on this. I've been watching thos FAJS carbs as well and would even dive in on a group buy. They make the EMPI VW carbs and people seem to like them. Replaced motor mounts yesterday. Engine still bangs while cranking, no idea what it is. I also want to point out that L28 kits of these are being posted all over ebay.com.au for near Weber prices.

Was this a Silvermine brake kit by any chance?

I'm running a mechanical on mine still. You noticed a difference from stock? I'm curious if you ever discussed triples with Dave, or if he mentioned there would be gains over the 48mm SU's going to an OER, Mikuni/Solex or Webers. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Moelk, I've spent all morning looking at triples online.... What do you have for an engine in that thing? 40s or 45s? Mikuni, OER or Webber? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's funny that it seems 90% of comments regarding extending the exhaust tip or running side pipes won't make any difference, when it clearly does. I ran dual exits before the rear axle and there is NO exhaust coming in the cabin anymore. That said, the muffler and plumbing are getting just wrecked on these roads. Will probably try something like you did. Over the past few days, installed NRG steering hub and NRG quick release, Grip Royal Blackwood Grain wheel. Pulled fuel tank and soldered up a crack in the lower vent line seem. Pulled rear diff cover, tapped new M12x1.75 helicoil, locktite and impact BOLTS to mustache bar. Remounted. Found 2 bolts sheared and missing from AZC front control arm. Replaced. Appears rear strut tower steel has separated from inner skin. Creaking and banging on both sides. Sealant is cracked the entire length of seam. Don't know what to do there. Installed wilwood prop valve in front of parking brake handle for rear brake balance. Installed and fabricated bracket in tunnel to mount wilwood 5/8" MC for factory handbrake lever actuation. Works. Removed stock prop valve at rear axle. Bled brakes. Replaced front hub dust caps, repacked bearings. Still waiting on speedo cable... Emailed GC several times over the past couple months. They're officially refusing to reply or acknowledge they ****ed up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What sort of resonator did you go with? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Was there any prior leaks or sweats in the tank that the por15 sealed up?

Making me want to do mine... Getting tired of the sweating seems Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Installed a pair of 7" H4 housings and bulbs from KC to replace the silly sealed beams. Broke only 2 of 8 screws holding the buckets in, and spent an hour or so swearing at the car before getting them somewhat in place. The MSA headlight covers are pretty much the biggest pain in the arse I need to regularity deal with. They're new, and both have cracked, and they scratch inanely easily. Next time they come off they're going in the trash. The buckets are rotted and both adjustment mechanisms are beyond repair, but the clearer lens and h4 bulb's ease of future replacement are a must. Lame KC logo on the bottom of the reflector housing, but not too obvious. These shipped with decent Philips 9003 bulbs installed, if anyone has wondered... KC doesn't specify other than 55w. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

FYI, since WCR has shut down my differential hunt also came to an end. I'm running a welded 3.36 and am in dire need of an LSD and a 4.11 would be perfect. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm sure the new owner will enjoy it just as much as you did!

Yeah, but with the strut towers cut off in the fashion they are, there are 'dusty' looking exhaust stains on the hatch glass above them. The fumes are pretty well pumped into the cabin as soon as I crack a window. With the side pipes this isn't happening. There are a few members on hybridz and the like who have chimed in on threads where people are asking about the plausibility of side pipe exhaust cures, who have reported success. Oddly the majority of folks are saying side pipes would make problem worse, or just post links to gasket sets or gasket replacement threads to rectify the issue for a stock car. Now the only odor is the sweaty fuel tank residue, so that'll be attempt 3 at fixing that... The rich idle is definitely the worst exhaust smell but it's only ever present in the garage or sitting I stagnant traffic. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Last week, being sick and tired of the exhaust fumes in the Z, I cut out my exhaust, bought a cheap glass pack from Canadian Tire, a 90 and some tube to fab up a side exit before the rear axle. Preliminary test seemed to reduce exhaust gas smell in the cabin, but was insanely loud so I was avoiding city driving all together. The noise this engine can make is for lack of a better word, 'sexual'. Managed to convince myself to do a dual exit a couple of days ago and buy a single in - dual out short muffler and more pipe, the result was barely any exhaust smell, ever. I used a chambered round resonator I had, followed by the muffler and the idle was very raspy and any revs over 3000 were somewhat monotone and uneventful, and felt restricting. Today, I bought an 18" glass pack to replace the resonator and welded it into the same location. Nicer and sharper sounding idle and revs, with a little more noise in the high end too... Still sounds kind of uneventful in the high revs. I'll try this out for a week or so before buying some tips and shortening up the tail pipes. No exhaust fumes though!

For any future reference, those guys that say a glass pack works ok as long as it's long enough (longer is quieter) didn't use this one. A 28" thrush glass pack is definitely way too loud for any kind of street use, but worth a good laugh, lots of stares and what feels to be slight butt dyno gains. Louder than anything, ever, loud enough to burn out a headlight I'm saying. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cut out my exhaust and welded up a side exit in front of RL wheel, went for a burn and the exhaust issue seems unchanged... Wondering though since I'll be redoing this what a good sounding muffler would be for a 3L at only 10:1 through a 2.5" pipe. I'm more about rich high rev sounds than rumble heavy idle... A resonator shaped flow through would be easiest for me if those work... Ie glass pack, dunno how they sound. What might this 3L through 45mm OERs at 1:50 for example be running... Hard to judge daily driver loudness I suppose. This 3L through 45mm OERs at 1:50 for example Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think even with our engines having a modified comp ratio, aggressive cam and modified induction an adjustable curve would be about the only way to get it running really well on the street. It feels like my 240z is really holding it back in the mid range, and I'd like more advance at idle I think. I'm surprised nobody has posted their curves before and after yet. That would tell a lot. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It looks like a great setup, as you're able to run the engine while drawing through them. The unisyn is an adjust and place, adjust and place trial and error setup back and forth. I'm seriously on the fence about ordering. 123 dizzy.... That cad dollar though... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very nice! Who makes those carb sync tools and do you prefer them to the unisyn style? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So... these quest studs are actually 6.03 mm longer than the rear stock studs on my 240Z which would be about perfect. That said, while being pretty snug I manged to get them into my front hubs ok. The rear, not so much. Knurl OD on the old studs ( which came out easily ) measure .5045" while the quest studs measure .5125"... I'll admit I tried pulling then through with a lug nut and impact, but it isn't going to happen. ARP ordering shortly, I guess..

I'm running mine top down with the red urathane bushing. I'll try to snap a photo for you if i get the car on jackstands tomorrow. I recall it being a snug fit to get in, and the nut for the urathane bushing is very ticky to tighten, as it's pressed up against the ebrake cable mechaisms. I have significant driveline vibration anyway, so I didn't notice any increase with the ~2 degrees reported driveshaft change. So far so good.

I worry about exploding a rota wheel everytime I dive into a corner above highway speeds... i can only hope the shear value of these doorman meet or exceeds OE.

Mine is the RT with the energy poly bushing mounted ABOVE the diff nose, holding it down against the crossmember.

My rt is holding up well. I blew the rear crossmember last night and drove it home like that. The front mount still appears to be solid. Even after all the laws of physics broken by the universal joints... Stock length is only about half a short tuner lugnut for me. With the 45.5 mm front, the stick out 1/4". I through in some 1/4" spacers and they sit pretty well flush with the end of my splined muteki tuner nuts. Pretty sure my rears are already 45 mm... but I may pull a wheel and measure tonight to be sure before ordering the longer ones.... same situation, with only half the nut holding threads.

Brake lines suck, sorry to hear about your luck. I pull the front hubs and changed out the stock wheel studs for the Doorman 610-403 Nissan Quest 45.5 mm length. I feel a more confident about my wheels staying on now Sourcing the rear. Looks like ARP 100-7708 Late model F-body studs in 1.5 pitch.

Joined up with a group in town getting a car club to the next level. Had an aerodrome to ourselves for the evening, with some Skyline/240SX drifting school, which turned into drags. I didn't feel drifting to be my thing once giving it a go. Feels WAY to abusive on the clutch and rear-end. The skyline blew 3rd out, and the 240SX had some front end stuff come loose. My Z was the 2nd quickest car out there in a straight line, nearly door to door with a 5th gen Camaro SS with some stuff done to it. I feel a 3.90 rear-end would make things even closer, which is pretty decent for the Z.