oranngetang

How much power are you hoping for out of this build?

EuroDat, some really good info coming from you, thanks! Maybe some would run that 225mm clutch just due to the smaller diameter and potentially lighter weight anyway? That clamping force is based on OEM specs right? Wouldn't it be possible that a high-performance system designed on the 225mm stature might exceed the OEM grip/clamp of a 240mm?

I think this is the thread you were speaking of. Lightening the flywheel I wouldn't get too carried away with taking meat off the stock flywheel unless your machine shop has done this a fair bit. There engines rev pretty high, and I'd hate to think about what the aftermath of a failed flywheel would be. Especially if you were really cruising, in a busy place. Is the Maxima flywheel lighter and interchangeable?

Are the flywheels themselves actually different? I was under the impression that as long as the clutch friction disc and pressure plate mated up, they could be bolted onto any flywheel. My understanding is the only curve ball would be whether or not the correct clutch collars are being used for the correct application. I stumbled upon a few good threads last night, I'll try to post some links later, I have not had a moment to thoroughly read through them yet... Busy at work again!

As for my chosen engine, I wasn't going to ship them a core since it's less to buy one than ship it from way up here in frosty Northern Canada, so there is only a distributor, carbs and valve cover being re-used. I'll have to pass on the free-dyno, though it would be entertaining! Buy yourself a side-draft sync. tool if you don't have one!!! They work well for setting up the SU carbs! I may not have mentioned, just remembered some comments about the electronic 280 dizzy. I'm running the 240Z with a Pertronix (sp) Ignitor to replace the points, sounded like it wouldn't be a problem, and they have a significantly different curve than the later years from what I've read. <4 months left before the snow hits again, I hope all these parts arrive in a timely order... hint hint.

Clutch-wise, and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong as I'd hate to pass on false information. I believe ALL clutches were 8 7/8" (225mm) x 1" x 24 tooth all the way through to the 1983ZX's 5 speed, with the exception that the 2+2 and turbo models had a 9 7/16" (240mm) x 1" x 24 tooth for the additional workload. Mind you, I've collected this data by scavenging the RockAuto part numbers and descriptions for that decade. That said though.... The premium clutches on a quick "240z clutch" ebay search will show different results... My ASSUMPTIONS are that the flywheels and clutches are interchangeable and that the larger size was Nissan's answer for a cost effective heavier duty clutch, but I don't know. I'd like to though... Any thoughts? I believe Dave did mention to me that he preferred to run the "smaller" clutch, which I can only assume means the 225mm plate, and I mentioned I'm running a later year 5 speed.

Note: Thermostat and gasket added to "just in case" list.

Let me also say that Dave, while a busy fella seems to be quite easy to talk to and work with. I'm not super-savvy with this stuff and had a lot of what were probably pretty stupid questions. It was his advice to get a new clutch, flywheel, etc. You just need to ask what you need.

I just wanted to keep this thread alive as I'm wondering when and how your engine turns out for you. Dave is also currently building me a 3.0L Stroker. I'm not sure if it quantifies as the 'full-on' package, but it includes the "billet" build and my Z-therapy 4 screws will be bored out. Perhaps triples in the future... I sent my dizzy and (obviously) the carbs for dyno and tuning. I'm skeptical about what those modified SU's will put out, but I'm sure the amount of torque I gain will make me grin. For comparisons sake, I ordered the Fidenza flywheel, KUPP Stage 4 clutch (hope it isn't crap), Mishimoto Aluminum Rad, Mishimoto Silicone Hoses and new valve cover gaskets for (hopefully) a no-delay installation when it arrives. I don't know if the head cover is included with the engine or not. Dave said they typically include a new water pump, and oil pump, etc. Wilwoods 4 piston kits front and rear, AZC front control arms and knuckles, GC lowering coilovers, poly bushing kit, RT diff mount, and 15x9 / 225/50 wheels and tires to help with power. I am planning on running the mechanical fuel pump, and he didn't say it wouldn't work... Will see. I suppose as long as the bowls stay full, that's all that matters, right? I plan on keeping my R180 (3.364) diff for now, probably having it welded solid and will be swapping in a later year 5 speed to replace my already new_to_me 4 speed... Lets share dyno numbers, etc. If there is anything obvious I myself am overlooking, shout it out.

I just used a sharp chisel and punched back the area on the first one, gave it some heat and it spun right out. The 2nd one though.... Wow. I did end up using a cutting disc to trim the nut down and the same chisel to start prying back the rest of the nuts centre. It eventually came out. Took a good amount of time, heat and percussion! The bearings sure came out nice. My one book said not to even bother trying to punch them out and to use a press... I used a drift from my pickup tool box and gave it two taps, both fell out! Time for a rockauto order I think.

Found something worse than the spindle pins to remove :0 27mm stub axle nut? Man... 1/2 impact, torches, release-all, air chisel, zip saw, more air chisel, more heat and impact... Unbelievable! Everything is in the box. I'm beginning to think I should do the cutting and welding myself... I guess I have enough to do with the bushings, rear diff and brakes... Wilwoods.... you're sooooooo evil for putting that thought in my head. Was laying in bed last night with an all around set in the shopping cart on my phone... Will see if this passes I thinking about a little more engine too... Dave kind of has the billet build floating around in my head now, and why not?! I think my 240z just became more expensive than my sled! Oh, and 10.6lb flywheel (Jim Wolf copy by the looks of it) and 400HP clutch, mushimoto rad and hoses and some other crap on the bus as of last night. I have Z fever. I think I'm going to try to retain the stock fuel pump for now and see if it has any issues keeping those bowls full.

Nice pics. What are you running for a fuel pump?

Ha! No kidding they're tough! Most annoying part is when they came out they looked new, except the mushroomed ends. So the sledge didn't even move them, just ****ed the threads even with the nuts on. What did work, was an air hammer with a 3/8" punch welded to the end of a cut off chisel bit. Once it bottomed out I pushed a drill bit in and blasted last blast 2" out. I'll be placing an order for some too Gnosez, you running a 0 offset also? I asked GC to choose the spring rate for me based on what I told them I'm doing with the car. I think they're going 250 all around, if not 225/250. Too soft? I was leaning towards the 250-275 mark, but I've been told I'm crazy Our roads are crap up here though, so maybe a little bit of give is good.

Thanks Diseazd, I'll give that a read. So about removing those rear LCA spindles... FML! I've got to be missing something. The brake drums literally slid off into my finger tips as did everything else. Add these things look brand new, yet won't budge. 6 lb sledge with the nut on the end and no movement. YES! I removed the flat sided bolt that retains them... I'm 1.5 hours in and have everything aparts except for these spindles, and the inserts are stuck...

Posted while I was typing that. I would totally do that BC kit, but my GC order is now placed. Seems to be MUCH less expensive and even looks nicer. Oh well... Timing is a good point. There are 30 some people in front of me and I need these yesterday. Judging by the photos... It would be close to fitting!

Zed Head, I appreciate the input, but it seems you're trying to sell me on OE struts when I've made it very clear that they are not really option at this point. True, they handle similar. True, they're less money. Ture, they won't work. What I was looking for is an alternative to using camber plates with coilovers. In hindsight, I should have wrote only that; " Guys, I don't want to run camber plates, but need a smaller ID spring to clear my wheels, what are my options? " The fact is I have already have paid for 225 tires and 15x9 rims based on advice from other forums/threads, so unless I try to sell them to re-coupe some of my costs and buy rims and tires all over again, the price difference between OEM style struts and springs and coilovers is negligible. I'm looking at $1600 for eibach/koni not knowing if they'll work or if the car will sit at an acceptable height (the front end is also about 150lbs lighter than stock) OR $2500 for coil-overs that will 100% work and let me run the width and profile I already own, while gaining camber and height adjustment. BONUS! They cost more, but for a lot of good reasons. Buying spacers and running longer studs will solve a strut perch issue, yes! However, this is just going to push the rim past the fender, so rolling the fenders MAY work, but probably won't do enough and look ridiculous. I would run OE style struts and springs if I could, maybe even the STAGG stuff, but I'm certainly not going to drop $700 on STAGG not knowing where the car will sit or if I can even mount my rims, with no camber adjustment and no review on how they perform, especially after reading that KYB GR-2s will **** the bed with lowering springs installed rather quickly. I don't expect STAGG is much more suited to it, but who's even run them to say so? Consensus on GC? They're ****ing amazing. I see you're about low budget / high value, that's why I chose make this Z fun instead of buying an E60 M5 for the summer. It's also why I'm sticking with SU carbs and a 3.0L instead of something larger, or with triple 40mm carbs or a turbo/FI setup for 400HP. That 3.0L seems to be about the most power for the money that I could find. Maybe I could have scoured the internet for a used L28, an LD28 crank, some forged pistons, cam, springs, etc, plus a head, but all in, I'm only spending a little more for a dyno-tuned, proven engine that is turn key. I work a LOT, my free-time is sparse and very valuable to me. While I'll be rebuilding the L24 eventually, the 3.5 months or so a year this car is able to go outside is precious, so I'd rather just order parts and builds that I know will work for a little extra money and enjoy the fruits of someone elses labor. On the same note, I need to disagree with the spending money here and not there statement... Would you put 300HP in your Z and run all season tires and factory brake pads, or would you upgrade that stuff? It's not only the responsible thing to do, but it would be a waste not to do it, IMO. I also look at a clutch and suspension as equally important things to replace when adding power, if the option that will work is expensive, that's something I need to deal with. A lot of guys on this thread are running lowering springs with the trade-off of not getting the ride height, tire width or adjustments they'd prefer to have, not to mention limiting overall suspension travel by doing it. I was going to do the same, except I have this rim and tire pairing that isn't going to cooperate with the larger diameter springs, unless like you said, I run spacers, which just introduces another fitment problem I can spend $10,000 and have my car sit funny with wheels sticking out past the fenders OR, I can spend $11000 and have everything fit with no headaches, it seems logical to me. Cutting the towers sucks, that what I'm trying to avoid. OE top hat, cool. How? I have no idea. Slotting the OE top hat location is the same as cutting them out to me. So, sounds like ground control. Diseazd, no wife or girlfriend even. You guys would maybe love the story of how my wife to be of 13 years walked away in Hawaii the day before our wedding! Yeah, I am almost 30 and finally have the ability to spend money on myself, so bring on the fun cars and sexy stance. I'm totally free to spend some disposable income on my Z and love every moment of it. I'm not sure this car is going to attract any ladies, especially with it's exhaust smells and lack of A/C, but I know I'll be enjoying every moment of it. Anyway, again thanks guys. Sounds like I was right about my options, and ground control seems like the logical kit as far as 2.5" coils go. I placed my order earlier, just got punched in the gut with a strut spring, I guess I'm not QUITE heavy enough to keep that SOB in place New method, launch the *****s at the floor into a pail! I don't have a compressor. Any advice on removing the strut inserts? I can't turn that ring! Write a novel much?

Thanks, I have read all of the posts. Just to reiterate, Tokicos no longer exist, and even if they did the rims and tires I have will probably not clear the stock spring perches, hence my questions regarding a 2.5" coilover setup. The alternative is Koni/Eibach, which will have the same issue, a softer ride and questionable ride height without much if any camber adjustment. Not to be negative, but I did mention this in the first post if not more than once already. The Tokico vs GC performance being relatively the same doesn't negate the fact that my wheels possibly wont fit and the ride height might be incorrect for my application, unless I'm mistaken?! Is anyone running a 15x9-0 with 225s under stock fenders with factory spring perches? It seems lots of people SAY THEY ARE until they mention they're running 2.5" springs on modified struts. Or they'll post a build thread showing the exact rim and tire specs ( or even 245 tires ) and that they fit without rolling, or spacers, just to rub it in everyones faces who bought 205s and 8" wheels, but never posted their suspension mods to say how they fit... I now have wheels I believe will not clear the stock perches because of such information, so a smaller OD spring and perch would be required, I think... Also, that 9" wheel will be close to the fender lip so a slight camber adjustment might be all that is needed to sneak it in. If not, I can adjust ride height at will to ensure I'm not cutting the sidewalls of my tires with sheet metal. I'm not sure how a coilover behind a crammed wheel wheel is bling, since nobody will EVER see them. I'm looking at 2.5" coilovers, specifically GC because they offer a pre-sectioned coilover package and it seems to be the only option to actually fit my wheels. Diseazd didnt mention his tire and wheel size under those Tokicos, so maybe he's running a 16x8 RB wheel with 205s? I'm wearing 215s right now on factory 14" slotted mags, 225s should be doable, but the interwebs are saying not a chance without 2.5" perches or spacers and rolling or flares. My concern isn't price, but the irreversible changes I'll be making to the all 4 strut towers on a somewhat rare and low numbered car... That said, since the GC plates are also bolt in, at least I wont need to weld on ****ty laminated sheet metal to get them into position. The options I'm kind of looking for insight on might be bolt in (using factory mounts) coilovers with 2.5" springs that would not alter the car body, or something else I'm not familiar with. I see some images floating around of OE top hats on coilovers. I don't know how they're setting camber with those kits, or how they're sectioning the top halves to work with the smaller coils, but that could be an option. At this time, OE sized springs are not for the reasons I mentioned. Another option was MSA's kit, but due to ****ty finish and reviews vs GC, and the pain I've endured trying to source a set suspension through them, I'm opting out. Again, I could be mistaken, but it seems legit! I looked at the STAGG stuff, but really it looks like it's probably re-branded OEM KYB stuff with shorter springs. They don't publish spring or damper rates, and their website looks like crap, plus its the same problems as above with them. If I'm dropping dough for a Rebello engine with bored out ztherapy carbs, and the clutch and tranni to pair it to, I'm not installing a $400 dollar suspension kit That would be wrong in so many ways. My big sin might be the $400 dollar clutch and flywheel kits though... Is a $600 clutch really necessary? I mean these engines make about 300HP at the flywheel TOPS.

I think my decision remains with ground control. Also, I just noticed that their plates are bolt in style. Drill holes, connect the dots for the cutout and then sandwich a backing plate to the mount. It looks easy and similar to the Sakura stuff. It's more expensive but they're sectioning the strut housings and shipping everything ready to go in (other than me mounting the plates). This I can deal with. Sorry Series I, but you'll be this much better of a car because of it. So with all of this said.... I suppose strut braces are somewhat out of the question now... Gnosez are you running braces in the either car? This early 240 is pretty flexy!

How do you like the 250 # springs on all four corners? Sounds like a lot are running a 225F/250R mix, or seemingly 25# stiffer in the rear regardless.

I think adjustable height and adjustable camber are alone with the switch. I'd also gain perch to wheel clearance. I appreciate the post to those bolt in plates, I'm tempted now. I suppose one could always just drill out the 'weld' in ones, or otherwise get as hack and slash customizable as one wanted. Will attempt to google some stock hat conversions in the am. GC seems to be the best price, sending ready to bolt in pre-segmented sets for a few hundred bucks more than what others are selling just the hardware for. I'll happily pay a few hundred for someone that knows what they're doing to cut and weld my stuff together. Just those damn camber plates...

From my understanding (and I could be incorrect), since the aftermarket kits like GC and TTT use common sized springs and struts, finding replacement options should be easier and now plentiful. Bolt-in plates still require cutting off sheet metal. Maybe there is a way too use the factory hats with these systems, but nobody seems to post any information or instructions on installation. So as it appears, you order a kit and then follow whatever modification instructions come with it.

I think more for the simplicity of saying you have camber plates and welded in height adjustable 2.5" springs on modified macphersons. I'm just adhering to the "coilover" precedence set forth by z forums internationally Factory engine is in the car. Drove it last night and it runs like a top with only a leaky rear main and cylinder 4 valve seals. Top mount on these conversion kits is different than out struts. Depending on who you go with you'll find different mounting plates. I think they all use a an adjustable pillow ball style mount of one form or another rather than an insulator/mount. So with no tokico and as far as I can find, only Koni remaining (KYB isn't an option), modification seems inevitable, if not just for wider tires for the additional power. Right? Say yes and enjoy your ground controls ahha. Also it isn't the cutting of the struts themselves that bothers me as much as cutting and welding in camber plates under the hood and on the rear towers.

Long story short. My fairly rust - free Series I is getting some cash thrown at it right now. 3.0L Rebello with zTherapy 4 screw round tops @ 10:1, 15x9-0 Shakotans, 225/50R15 Kuhio ASTs, front air dam, lots of electrical and weatherstrip/interior parts and.... suspension. So my initial plan was to go with a narrower rim and tire with Tokico kit. Sadly since it's now discontinued, and Eibach/Koni seems to be the only other option for a drop and stiffening, it's going to be coilovers I guess. Now... it is a series I and I've kept all of the original parts, so welding in camber plates is something I really don't want to do. That said, I've looked at alternatives, and while a MSA has their kit, but apparently not struts for it in stock, I put a call into ground control this evening. It seems it's taken about the amount of time to find out what isn't in stock or instant available or whatever, that I would have liked it to rake for the order to be here in my hands. That and the consensus online of the MSA kit seems to be overpriced and poorly finished and still requires cutting and welding of your strut housings, just to save the weld in plates. So after I cook some supper, I'm throwing on some coveralls, pulling all 4 corners and disassembling my strut housings to be shipped tomorrow for sectioning and permanent conversion to GC coils. That said, it's not too late to suggest an alternative to me. These need to come out anyway. I've been reading forums for the past couple of years making a decision on how to do this and I'm constantly running into false information or posts. So here is why I THINK I need the coilovers 1. Despite several posts that say a 15x9 with 225 wide tires WILL fit stock suspension / eibach springs, it appears they probably will not clear the spring perch without spacers. I don't want spacers... or rims sticking out noticeably beyond fenders. I refuse to install flares. 2. Ride height.. seems like a of discrepancy on where the car will sit with the eibach springs. Also it seems there are 1000 posts where someone installed the rear springs in front, etc. Um... coilovers will let me set the exact height and camber required to fit the tire under the fenders leaving sufficient gap and travel for driving... i hope. 3. Way more adjustability and aftermarket support once this is done, with springs and strut inserts... next year will Koni stop making struts for our cars? And so the pros and cons... basically repeating myself. ..trying to convince that yes I'm doing no wrong... Pros Adjustability, wheel clearance, spring and damper selection Cons Bastardizing my strut mounts and price... So yeah... GC seems like the plan as of now. Let me know why or why not. I understand the irreversibility of this... i have already eted smog and had the carbs redone and welded in new frame rails and floor sections. The car isn't stock. I intend to drive the **** out of it and with the poly bushings and coilovers, I get it. Rough ride. I'm fortunately not 100 years old and also willing to gain some asthetics and performance rather than driving an underpowered 2100 lb car with a squishy lift kit. This car was an inheritance and wasnt running or legal to drive when it fell into my hands. My goal is fast, nimble and fun while looking era specific and somewhat unmodified. Might some autocross weekends, more or less my street weapon. No time to proof read...2 percent battery on this stupid phone.

I have pretty much given up on posting from my iphone... I'll try to repost. The centrifugal swings rather well, and returns to 'zero' when at idle. It does not appear to be getting stuck anywhere. I think it was giving 18-20 degrees additional up to around 4000rpm, but I'll recheck this afternoon when I'm home. Would it be of any help if I posted a short video of the car when warm, at an idle, using GoPro behind my timing light to show RPM vs Total Advance, working up in 500RPM increments?

I wouldn't say my car is very torquey. I've been in a 260Z with L28/triple carbs and it was much quicker. This is kind of an unfair comparison though. Taking some advice given here, I double checked my TDC measurement, which I would say is within 1 degree of TDC, and set my timing to 12* BTDC at 850rpm. This dramatically reduced my idle, so I re-synced the carbs using a unisyn, and needed to increase richness on both carbs. On top of that, I disconnected the vacuum lead on the advance and went for a drive. The car idles smoother at 12* with the idle screws opened slightly wider, but drives nearly the same, perhaps with less power than before. I think it's possible I was actually at 20+ BTDC advancement before, which is crazy without detonation