oranngetang

For instance, I can't feel any difference between the stock cleaner and stacks vs my short stubs and K&Ns, or no filters at all. The K&Ns sound faster, but that's it. I am running modified SUs though. Today I swapped out the rubber steering coupler bushing with a poly model, amazing how much it changes some handling quirks and tightens up the wheel. Also pull the driver's rear plastics off to find the source of a clunking sound that's been driving me bonkers for months now. $20 dollars of plastic clips later, a broken pair of pliers and some cracked plastic, I found a non-factory Pioneer speaker hanging from a broken aluminum mount. Turns out that wasn't the source of the noise. I'm baffled.

Sounds exciting! I can't see that much loss from any decent filter unless the end plate is right up against the stacks.

So today, organized some parts with zKars, welded the broken bar back together for now and went for a spin. Friend Dave took it for a spin and comfirms the Datsun isn't slow and that I must just be use to it now... Thunderstormed out, so I took advantage of 2nd gear power slides around the industrial park before topping up with 94 and going home. Driver's side wiper stopped all motion as soon as the skies REALLY opened up... made of an interesting last couple of miles home. Bolt backed off... good as new-ish.

In the bars defense, I did weld a plate to it to solve my diff loosening issue. It sheared along a weld, so the added rigidity and weakened spring steal wasn't able to flex as it wished to. I'll fire you an email shortly.

What's the difference between the 70 and 72 bar? I recall reading that the 72 was moved back or something to improve axle angles. I'm curious because TTT markets theirs as fitting ANY 240Z,260Z or 280Z with a longnose R180.

Exploded mustache bar. Need a R180 mustache bar, btw. Other than TTT, who makes an aftermarket mustache bar for the R180?

3 hours of hooning last night says clutch is holding up fine. It was the collar.

I literally reached inside, swapped collars and lifted it back into place. Once I remounted the slave, I just spun the adjustment nut until it took firmed up against the fork. Next time it's out I'll measure everything. This was kind of a quick and dirty experiment I didn't expect to achieve anything with. Figured I'd be taking measurements and placing an order for a clutch tonight. Is it 92-95 mm with the TOB resting on the fingers without pressure applied?

Interestingly enough. Test drive allowed wheel spin and clutch is behaving more or less as it 'should' using the shorter '70 bearing collar. I'll follow up if things change.

I'm thinking so too. Just threw in a shorter collar for giggles... so far it passes the jackstands test. Going to try a short drive. There is lots of crap on the inside of the bellhousing. Maybe this clutch is just oil contaminated, or its just the cheap ebay clutch thing. I have about 2500 abusive km on it.

Just took a stab at some of this theory. I'll post my thoughts and have another read through here and elsewhere. I'm feeling my clutch is probably just toasted at this point. Wanting to rule out the pressure build up theory at the CMC, I adjusted the CMC rod at the pedal to allow full return of the master piston. After doing so, thethe clutch behaved the same and slipped in the same situations. The only difference being more requires pedal depression to achieve release. I checked the CSC to assure there wasn't any force being applied against the fork and that the fork had the room required to allow a full release. I was able to wiggle the fork at the slave rod with minor effort as well as push the slave piston inward. This leaves two possibilities (I think) 1. The clutch is just toast. 2. The collar is actually just tall enough to always have some pressure against the pressure plate fingers, when it's bottomed out. (Unlikely) From L to R. My collection of collars. '70 4 speed B, '73 4 speed A, '79 5 speed B.

Are you using a ballast resistor with it? I'm curious if that coil makes any gains over a stock coil paired with the ignitor. I was using my MSD coil without a ballast, but the cap and rotor would quickly foul and and wear out.

Fantastic information. I'm working nights this weekend out of town, but I'll run through this a few times before taking a crack at it. Thanks a tonne guys. I don't have the auto adjusting CSC as the transmission didn't come with one. Working with a manual adjust. I'll grab a small cpil spring on my way back into town.

Did you get this workign correctly? When you trimmed off the rod to releive the pressure being held on the plate, did you notice that clutch performed properly for a few strokes? this is where i'm at, sounds the same situation as you. Same transmission swap even. ---- I recently put a 79 280ZX type B 5 speed in my 240Z. I used the bearing collar and fork that came with this 280ZX transmission. I'll post some pics shortly to compare between the B type 4 speed TOB collar/fork I swapped out. The 280zx fork had an indentation where the clutch slave rod would sit against, vs the 4 speed with an indentation and and hole. I used the clutch slave that was already in the car, (a generic 240Z replacement, size I'm uncertain). This slave has a threaded rod, with adjustable nut on it. In order to use with the new fork, I drilled a hole the same diameter as the piston threaded rod in the fork indentation, allowing the rod to slide through and sit happily. Currently, I believe the TOB to have a slight pre-load against the clutch. I get complete disengagement in the first 1/4 of pedal travel. If I were to dump clutch at 6000 RPM, it would slip rather than spin tires. If I shift aggressively, you can feel it slip a small amount. Engagement under throttle is soft, not firm. Clutch is a cheap eBay KUPP Racing Stage 4 - 6 puck rated at ~400 HP... Flywheel is a 143281 Fidanza aluminum Engine is 3L L28 producing 282HP/272TQ at flywheel. Because it seemed the slave was releasing the clutch far too soon, I crawled under the car and backed off the adjustment nut on the slave cylinder rod to see if the clutch would take up the slack. There was no play and I couldn't move the fork by hand, at all. I backed it off about 3/4" where there was still significant pressure behind held between the fork and slave cylinder. I hoped in the car and pressed the clutch to the floor and released it. The clutch now engaged roughly 1/4 stroke off the floor and felt totally normal. I went for a quick boot and the clutch grabbed VERY hard, and held well in all gears allowing wheel spin in 1st and 2nd. Though after a few clutch depressions the pedal/slave began to release again in the original spot, just barely depressed, and the clutch would again begin to slip. SO.... I believe the TOB collar may actually be the correct length, but instead perhaps the clutch pedal to master needs to be adjusted. I don't know, but it sounds from my reading that the master plunger may not be releasing far enough to allow fluid to return to the reservoir, so a preload is being held against the slave, which may explain how the "slack" i created has been taken up. Am I on the right track? It seems this cheap clutch is holding up fine even after some slipping abuse, as it seems under full release it sticks like glue to that flywheel. It sounds like the suggestion here is that the collar is too long, but if that was the case, why would shortening the slave piston length temporarily solve the problem. It seems the slave just ends up enagaging to far. Unless this is NORMAL, in which case then yes I agree the collar is just too long.

Cops suck at life

Factory ignition, MSD Blaster 2 coil / ballast, Pertronix Ignitor points replacement.

Kurby, if rev the engine to about 1500 rpm and suck on a 1/4" line attached to the vacuum advance, I can get it to start rotating. I don't notice it moving if it's connected to the manifold, as if either there is insufficient manifold vacuum or sticky mechanism. Maybe see if you can get it moving on your own. Pull the rotor off and see if you can swing it.

As a follow up, I posted in my own thread. Remeasuring with my light, I see a maximum deflection of 31 degrees from the dizzy by mechanical advance. A 5 degree idle setting is what's required to achieve this for my engine.

Timing data from mechanical advance starting from zero. Timing light rpm vs tach rpm.... 1000 RPM / -0 / 1300 RPM 1500 RPM / -5 / 1800 RPM 2000 RPM / -13 / 2400 RPM 2500 RPM / -18 / 2800 RPM 3000 RPM / -25 / 3400 RPM 3500 RPM / -28 / 4200 RPM 4000 RPM / -30 / 4500 RPM 4500 RPM / -31 / 5200 RPM Set base to -5 BTDC and confirmed -36 at 5000 RPM as per Rebello dyno sheet number. This is pretty well exactly where timing was set when the engine shipped to me. I marked the dizzy at that point. What might cause the massive difference between tach and timing light? 700 rpm at 4500... also the placement of the inductive pickup for the timing light was sensitive to placement. In some cases the advance on the light would not move the beam despite showing it was doing so on the display. I'm wondering if the 700 dollar investment in a programmable (123) dizzy would be beneficial, if not just more stuff for me to geek out with.

This chat about the dyno and whatnot has brought me full circle to digging up the data from the computer just now and all I see on the sheet is 36 degrees BTDC, which is likely why the dyno only charts 3500 - 7000. With that said, I can't recall where my -10 degrees starting mark came in as I see I posted -15 degrees elsewhere closer to the date of talking with Dave. So to avoid any misinformation... My engine dyno'd at 36 total advance, which is printed on my slip. Perhaps ignore the idle numbers as that was by word of mouth and clearly I'm having troubles remembering, or something. I'm dunno!

And kirby, the engine runs well with 30-35 total advance above 5000 for me but has absolutely no bottom end with the base timing set low enough to achieve that. I'll get the light on it again tonight and play around a bit. I have a pertronix ignitor in that dizzy, no points. Keep us posted.

Chickenman, he had my carbs on it as well, but the engine ran poorly when I got it in my hands. The needles were all ratty looking and filed down on one side, but not in a uniform or otherwise sciencentific looking way. Ran way rich, 10:1 afr throughout most of the range or even richer at WOT. Oil contamination and plug fouling was prominent with those needles. I'm really curious what kirby finds to be the sweet spot for his as the engines are both 3L, same cam, same carbs, different dizzy, not dyno'd.

Dave dyno'd this engine with that dizzy in place, so he's probably going by what they used on the bench. I havnt taken it apart to see if he elongated the slots or not. I run 91 and 94, and I think I once heard a ping, but really it behaves pretty good. The engine is running a little over 10:1 but he's got a colder plug in it, possibly that may be avoiding said detonation. It's beyond my knowledge. Engine runs like a vtec.

I'm not confusing it. Dave told me to set the idle advance to 10 when I asked what the total advance should be. The numbers beyond idle seemed trivial and unimportant to him in the conversation. I have my idle set at a 10 degree mark on the pulley. At 4500 rpm the mechanical isn't swinging any further on my dizzy. To bring the mark back to my 10 degree starting mark takes ~30 degrees on my digital light. I believe this means the total actual advance at 4500 and beyond is 40 degrees +/-.

I did the same except from 10 BTDC