oranngetang

That's amusing to me because he said 10 at idle for me. Haha

I feel it went about the same for me,l with urathane bushings. The powder coat was what I assumed was causing the tightness. I'm so glad I was able to change out the top hats etc without removing those pins again!

38 degrees total? Unless I'm using the light wrong, with the engine set at a -10 BTDC idle, the advance to return the light to -10 at 4500 rpm is ~30 degrees. Total is ~40 I believe.

28-32 advance from the mechanical on my 240 dizzy. If I start at 10, total bounces 28-32, though for some reason it's a sporadic reading, and the position of the inductive pickup seems to matter a lot...

5lb hammer

I honestly am not sure. Someone else will need to chime in on that assuming I have a '70.

I massacred my spindle pins when I replaced them. Props for dealing with them.

I'm guessing if you're running at a base of -33 your mechanical advance is stuck on you. That seems excessive, as I believe I gain about 25 degrees from my mechanical swing. IIRC

I need to verify. Couldn't find my digital light w advance when I set and Dave has 4 timing marks on my pulley I'm assuming are 0, 5, 10 and 15. He said to set base at 10 degrees and leave the vacuum advance disconnected on my engine. Couldn't give me a total advance number.

Innovate DLG-1. What is your idle timing and maximum timing advance? IE: -10* and -36*. 280zx dizzy or stock? I have the pertronix setup replacing my points, otherwise stock. I'd say this car is putting down 200hp at the wheels y butt dyno. I need to find a chassis dyno in the region that'll have time for tuning with a few needles. Youtubing DIY dyno building. Kidding...

Replaced the felt inside the window runners and frame. Found the 1st foot of speedo cable snapped off, problem found. Gave it a wash and went to my first car club meet in town. Went for cruise. This Rebello 240z so far isn't much quicker than a stock B4 RSK, at all.

That manifold looks great! Adjusted valves and installed oil cooler today, fresh K&N and Brad Penn with the lean needles.

I'm not sure the collar they have on these struts is removable. Maybe it just slides off, I'm not sure. I'm not taking any of this stuff apart until I'm sure they're not going to rectify it. Either way I would need a collar from them. If it is replaceable, even a collar spacer placed below this threaded collar would have the same effect. I suggested a thicker ring perch, a spacer, etc. They wouldn't say, either way. As for the camber plates underneath, that is where they are suppose to go. I initially placed them on the top before I new better and contacted them for their advice on the matter. My plan early on was to leave them on top, and fabricate a reinforcement plate to sit below, which sounds like what I may end up doing, though for different reasons now. They're too pretty to hide, and I'd rather have a finished looking strut tower than looking at my die grinder cuts every time the hood is up. The bottoms of the springs are flat, so a 'fitted' coil spacer may not even be necessary, it would just require a shoulder to keep the spring centered above the sleeve.

Excellent info. So for a fairly stiff 250 lb spring, likely that extension number would drop well below 2". Perhaps a spring extension would work then. That said, would there be any advantage/disadvantage of running those instead of a 12" spring with the perch threaded 1.5" down?

OK... It's been a while, lots of vacation time lately! Put a couple of thousand km on the car the past week with a new to me 5 speed. Currently installed in these carbs are SM needles from APT. I tried a (TL?) needle as well but they were SUPER lean. Honestly the SM is a very good performer. I'm getting even, usable mixtures between both carbs at just about every throttle point and any speed. Gear selection comes into play with these a little more as there isn't nearly any power at all below 3000 rpm, and the pull up to about 4500 rpm leaves a LOT to be desired. With that said, highway cruising achieved me ~23 MPG (US) or 10 L/100 KM over the past 1,800 highway kilometers with an indicated AFR of around 14.5. A Pull from 4,500 to 7,000 rpm is good with an indicated AFR of around 13.3. Leaning the mixture ever so slightly can increase a cruise to 15-16 AFR, but I'm finding the engine needs that ~13 point at WOT and high revs to make power. Richer seems to rob a little power, and leaner seems to be a little risky. I wouldn't say this engine enjoys a load at anything over 14. Next step with these needles will be some playing around with timing. I'll try to get my hands on a 0-60 1/4 mile box to gather some imaginary dyno data from the changes I make. Once timing is at a point that makes good peak power, I'll re-visit the needles. I may incorporate the final half of the SM profile into a leaner needle to the top end right and then try some customization based on a minty-lambs style chart vs my butt-dyno figures. In other news, I received an envelope from zTherapy with some used core needles in it. It looks to be 4 pairs, though it could in fact be 8 randoms. Can't wait to give them a try. I'll attempt to verify with calipers at another time. As of now, I havn't been able to get a hold of Steve by phone, email or through Bruce regarding these needles or carbs yet. It's just me and you guys on this one for now. BTW, that rear-end vibration is enormous but I don't know how any of you get past the exhaust smell in the cab... What a downer! Side-exit exhaust?

If not a fire extinguisher, a GoPro just so we can see what happens. Better yet, use it to record the problem you're having so everyone isn't guessing at a written explanation. We all use different words to describe the same thing. It'll clear up a lot of confusion.

I'm in final talks with the suspension guys, to see about sorting something out for this car. Just to lay it out in black and white, this is where the rear perch ring is currently positioned. It's above the top thread or two, which is above where it should be. This is how low the car sits with the perch ring in that position This is full droop This is full static load, without a driver or fuel. A difference of about 1 11/16". I can only think of two feasible options. 1. Use a taller spring. GC offers two spring lengths, 8" and 10". I have a 10" spring, front and rear. I could buy a 12" spring, but as is, I'm only getting 1 11/16" inches of extension out of this suspension as is. How much is necessary to maintain? Raising the car by using a longer spring will also lower the amount of extension by the same amount. 2. Use a strut spacer. I can have a local steel shop laser cut up to a 1" steel plate, which I could shape the same as the camber plates and place under the strut towers to move the suspension downward. GC hasn't said more than there is an easy fix, but hasn't disclosed it. This response came months after they suggested I move the camber plates below the strut towers and use their strut-brace as an alternative to a 'finisher' for engine bay aesthetics. I've been told on several occasions since last Autumn that the strut braces are in production, yet I've also been told that they're not for sale. I was kind of expecting a free set to be honest. Even then, I think I'd need to have some thicker plates machined to gain some height. I'm 9 or 10 months into this email string between them and I and feel no closer to any sort of resolution. I'm hoping they pull through with some strut braces and I can take care of some thicker support spacers. Afterall, it was THEIR suggestion. Any thoughts? Specifically how much strut extension should be maintained? OR, can you think of any possible situation where you would purposely put the threaded collar so low on the strut, and offer an 8" spring to boot? By measurement you could sit the car on the frame rails if you cared to. I feel it's been cut too low, they say it's what I ordered.

Pardon my grammars.... Samsung issue. Mount Robson Just finished a road trip to the Kamloops area, roughly 2,000 km round trip with the new transmission. Epic! Lots of scenery along the way and thumbs up from passers by and round crews. 3rd gear has some enormous pull. Shifting from 2nd at 7000 rpm to 3rd is like turning on nitrous.

... and not to leave out the very unbalanced home cut driveshaft

Partially. I've had the car up on jack stands idling in 1st gear and it would visibly rock inside of the mustache bar. I've since welded a 3/8" plate to the mustache bar and run in bolts, rather than studs which completely eliminated the rocking, but there was still a small amount of play and some binding happening. I assumed it was the differential since I welded the spider gears in it.The driveshaft '70 non servicable driveshaft I removed had a blown u joint on the differential side and replacing it with with 280zx shaft that I shortened completely removed ALL play in the driveline. There is still vibration that begins at 58 mph, and exponentially increases with speed, but will vary with appied torque if that makes any sense. I feel again that this is the differential, possibly from the significant amount of wire welding I've significant doesn't to the carrier, with worn bearings, but possibly it's just the u joint half shafts. If the trouble exists after a cv swap and sti last swap... I'll be upset.

Are you purposely avoiding the spark plugs for any specific reason? 1. If you suspect the booster is leaking, you may also notice it takes more effort to push the brake pedal. That said, we're diagnosing an acceleration issue, so all you would need to do for now is disconnect the brake booster and plug the port it's connected to at the engine. You're focusing on vaccum leak. If you plug the hole, it rules out a faulty booster or booster hose. It really is that simple, it doesn't matter if the booster leaks if it isn't connected. If the same problem exists, it isn't the booster. 2. If you foot isn't on the clutch pedal, the car is moving and still shaking, it isn't clutch chatter. If your foot is on the pedal and you're engaging the clutch and that motion causes the car to shake until it's fully engaged, its likely clutch chatter. I think it's been ruled out as you're saying it's happening while accelerating.

Easiest thing to do so far was take out a spark plug, but you've already started replacing parts and have had it at the mechanics? As for the clutch, if it's clutch chatter you're explaining, you'll only feel it when starting to move from a stop until it's fully released, not when you're shifting. The description of your "car shakes side to side" when letting out the clutch is a symptom of a broken motor mount exaggerating normal clutch chatter, from running a performance clutch OR from hot spots on the surfaces. Others will know better, but I find it hard to believe a vacuum leak on an SU powered engine causing an issue this pronounced, even if your vacuum advance is completely out of service. Assuming it's the brake booster for instance, just take the hose off the balance tube and cap the manifold for and moment. No change? Not the brake booster. After reading through again, I think maybe your inclusion of the word "clutch" may have misled me and others. You pretty much perfectly defined clutch chatter, but if this is happening while accelerating once the clutch is totally engaged, it isn't clutch chatter. What it does sound like is again fouled plug. Run the engine, pull wires, see if any of then don't cause an rpm drop. Pull the plug, if not all of them. It's likely fouled. A fouled plug may work better at higher rpm and cause a rough idle and hesitation at low rpm. Do what you want, but replacing stuff without reason is counterproductive if you're left with the same problem. Especially if it's just a fouled plug from a rich mixture. Doesn't hurt to replace these hoses anyway, but.... in the meantime....

After a late night putting the 5 speed in, took a 800 km cruise to Kamloops for the week. Averaging 23 US MPG so far on SM needles. Diff clunk 100% gone.

Hey pogden, welcome. Transmission is in. Drilled hole in release bearing fork's concave recession to allow the adjustable shaft of the slave to fit through. Cut the diff side end of driveshaft off, trimmed 3/4" from shaft and welded back together. Fits snug. Turns out my diff clunk issue was partly a separated u joint in the driveshaft. Will have to see tomorrow how this drives now. Shifts through all gears on jackstands, speedo and backup lights are working. Here are a couple of photos is the transmission differences. I a found it strange the 71B 5 speed has the upside down speedo gear, which I was sure was only on the 71C.