oranngetang

Started putting the transmission in around supper time. Some minor fitment issues so far, transmission is shorter than 4 speed 71B, shifter ears are taller and hit tunnel, but fits, old driveshaft is busted, new driveshaft is too long, clutch fork isn't compatible, and such. Clutch fork is about to be modified, driveshaft is being shortened, just had to grab some more cut off wheels and a mig wire tip. Hopefully driving tonight, though I'm afraid the distinctively different collar and fork might cause some sort of issue, even once I figure out how to get the slave cylinder to work with it. Otherwise I'll try the old stuff from try the 4 speed 71B, since I've never understood the difference between the several bearing collars and fork designs... trial and error.

I've got 250 front, 225 rear on my GCS. They feel like they'd be good if the suspension was sitting at a good height.

As would answering if you checked the plugs or not.

Drove 980km to pick up an FS5W71B from an '80 ZX today. Hope to have it driving tomorrow.

After playing with your carbs, did you hook the vacuum advance back up? Did the car do this before you played with your carbs?

Hesitation or shaking? You're saying two different things. I 2nd clutch chatter due to worn or separated motor mounts based on your first description of clutch release at an idle or low throttle. That sounds to be clutch chatter, and if you have a segmented clutch like a 4 or 6 puck, it'll be greatly pronounced. If it doesn't have anything to do with the clutch and you are talking about a choppy idle and what feels like a misfire, idle the engine and pull each plug wire off a plug one at a time replacing it after you pull it. You may notice a drop in rpm for every plug you pull. If not, pull the plugs that seemed to provide the least decrease in rpm and look at them. Compare them to other plugs. I'm guessing you're rich and fouling while idling. Since you're playing with timing, I'd put it back for now, but confirm your mechanical/vacuum advance is working and not stuck.

Got good and fed up with the diff shaking itself loose on the mustache bar. Pulled the mustache bar out, cut a piece of 3/8 plate, welded it to the back of the bar and used a step-bit to hone the hole out to a few thou tighter than the new bolts are round. Threaded some 10.9 bolts through the plate and into the diff. Proceeded to spin tires, drive tight circles and whip donuts. Diff is securely, never moving again. Which brings me to my next issue... that diff must be pretty toast. With the car in gear, I can lay on the floor with my foot on the front tire and my head next to the diff, looking at the input/pinion shafts, if I roll the car ahead until it binds, there is a wild clunk and the shaft binds and rotates quite angrily through two positions. Makes a loud ping sound Time for that STI swap I guess

I feel like this is thr kind of problem I seem to have over and over. Simple fixes that appear to be larger than they are, and therefore immensely stressful. Cheers again for the starter advice, that gear reduction model is nothing short of insane.

What a relief.

Engine is full of oil? What about coolant? I'd remove the fan belt and see if the water pump, alternator or fan hub is making noise, I'd also remove the cap and rotor. And give it a turn or two just to rule out some stuff. I'd also pull the spark plugs and inspect for any impact damage, then check under the valve cover for a missing lash pad, rocker arm spring or something silly like that. If the visible stuff on the engine looks ok and the noise still exists. I'd pull the start and check the teeth, and would also feel inclined to remove the clutch and pressure plate, checking the tightness of the flywheel bolts and looking for any weird wear on that flywheel. I dunno... im not a mechanic.

Hey no worries. The starter is an amazing difference. It's quick and even when everything is warmed up it'll kick that engine over like nothing.

I do not know. Is there oil in the engine? I do have my gear reduction starter in. I'm out of town right now but may skip by the house when I run in for groceries. I'll record a video of mine if able for comparison. Someone with some experience will chime in. Did it come with the flywheel and clutch installed or did you bolt that stuff on?

Nice. How do you like the Proxes?

Installed gear reduction starter Remy#16584 and am amazed and astonished at how much easier this Z starts and how much lighter the starter is.

To answer the question, at speed a dip in the road will cause me to bump the inside of the arches. The lips clear, and have never rubbed, front or back and I havnt rolled or otherwise modified the fenders in anyway. Also, the front a-arms are length adjustable, so they can aid in camber/track and clearance as required. 235's fit well on my car, I think 245's would be tight. That said this tire fits wide, like most 245's would. Modifications that are relevant to this fitment are 2.5" coils on a GC suspension kit, and significant camber. If I flattened out the camber, I'm sure the rears would rub the lips. -can't belive how I need to edit nearly every post because of Samsung's insanely poor autocorrwction. <--- I actually typed autocorrection there.

A larger tire will. -edit- actually to not come off as a total douche, I'm only saying that because it came up in the wheels thread earlier. I'm running pretty close to stock diameter, not enough to really notice the difference. 17s might throw that illusion around, but they're 40 profiles, not 50s or 60s for a reason.

The overall tire diameter is all that's relevant. The 17" wheel doesn't matter. I'd have to do check but my guess is your tires are about 1/2" under and mine are 1/2" over the original 14" equivalents.

Would you safely assume this car is lower than 2" then? Rota RKR-F 17x8.5-0 / Federal 595 235/40R17.

Looks good, how lowered would you say that is?

Lumens, does that exhaust sticking out that little bit extra help with in cab fumes with the windows down?

I mean, how can you can you day this car isn't lowered substantially

You're probably right. There seems like there is enough strut stroke in reserve to actually just run a longer spring, and I may infact buy some longer ones, but it's kind of the principle of the situation right now. If you order a stock ride height suspension system that can be lowered 2 inches from a company that does a custom build with your existing bodies, and they blame you for ordering the 10" springs when it was their suggestion, something is wrong. They also only offered 8" and 10" options when I ordered. Stock - ish height and lowered height respectively as I was explained. I can't see an 8" spring working in ANY situation on these struts. 12" in the rear would work, I'd keep the 10" up front. Eibach and Hypercoil are the same price, would you still go Hypercoil if doing it again? What spring rates are you running? Off the top of my head I think this car is 225/250.

Beautiful Z

Show and shine tomorrow I guess... kinda was looking forward to getting the canoe torn down tomorrow, but people were insistent the Datsun be there. The movie wasn't Smokey and the Bandit like I had thought, but I hadn't seen this one either.

At a drive in movie with the Z and many other classics.