oranngetang

I don't think it makes a difference, one way or the other. Spinning them would be more of asn exact science is all, something measurable and recordable. I'm in touch with zTherapy and just fired an email to an SU outift in Australia regarding needle selection. I'm tempted to file a tad off the idle neck of these needles, but I'd rather retain them the way they are and play with others instead. Rather than filing them right now, would moving the needle up into the piston, for example placing the non-tapered neck flush with the piston recess, cause a problem with how the carb operates? Snowing/Raining today... Finishing up the stereo install I guess.

I'll get some needles ordered up from zTherapy tomorrow hopefully. In the meantime, is there any harm in cheating that needle up into the piston a little to get some more fuel flowing at the idle? I feel the filing needs to be done right to the base, rather than the other way around.

It is street driven. This engine wasnt really built as a race engine, though the internals would hold up well to some race abuse. The cam is more aggressive street than race, and seems to make good power and torque everywhere, but climbs significantly around 4500 rpm. I'll take some measurements of the cam next time the cover is off. An 850 rpm idle sounds like a stumbling V8 but is doable. The tradeoff to get an idle out of it is lowering the jets enough that the off idle mixture is always < 11:1. I can have the car idle, or I can have the car break loose in 2nd on a chilly day, but there isn't really a compromise where I can do both with these needles. The dyno sheet is posted here somewhere. I'll try to paste the link. He sends the data as an Excel sheet screenshot, so I entered the data back into excel and plotted power vs time. Been ignoring the car the last few days since my girlfriend is in town. Her flight home is this afternoon so I'll be back to car - mode by supper time.

I shipped an ARB bull bar bumper from Edmonton to the states for under $100 CAD. Write down the dimensions and weight and call around. I found it was cheaper to ship from a major city than from town.

I'm starting this thread to keep track of my findings, but please chime in if you have any thoughts, suggestions or critisisms on the matter. The engine is a fresh 3.0L Rebello "Full-on" package, which have my zTherapy 4 screw round tops bolted to it, on a smoothed balance tube, and a 6-2-1 header. Compression is said to be 10.1:1, I noticed the head is slightly ported, and the valvetrain noise is overly aggressive even with a fresh lash adjustment. Cam is a '99DI', IIRC, which Dave himself said runs very loud. Rebello Racing bored these to 48 mm, and as it appears did some crazy grinds on the needles to put down 282 HP on my dyno sheet. That said, my experience with the tune has a been a little frustrating. For starters, this engine will not idle. With suspicions of the car running overly rich, I purchased an Innovate DLG-1 dual wideband gauge to monitor with banks of my header at the 3-2 collectors. The gauge has told me a lot, but most importantly that the engine IS running rich. How rich? With the float levels at 20mm from top of bowl, at 3 turns down (2.96 mm by caliper), I'm putting down 9.1-10.1 AFR at WOT, through the rev range, and >20 AFR at an idle of 800 RPM. With the float levels at 20mm from top of bowl, at 1.5 turns down (1.48 mm by caliper), I'm putting down 10.8 - 12.4 AFR at WOT, through the rev range, and the engine is much snappier above 2000 RPM, but below it has no power and will idle for only a few seconds with the idle screws generously opened up. I suspect these fancy looking needles may have some, if not ALL to do with these problems. Thanks goes to Blue for walking me through uncovering them. With the amount of material removed, it seems to be that I need to set the mixture to be excessively lean to compensate, leaving no fuel for the engine to idle on. I'm going to try playing with these a bit, and am pondering the idea of spinning some SM or stock needles a little to see how it effects my specific engine. In the mean time, I'm kind of wondering if setting these needles set higher into the piston, or filing off a tidbit of material at an idle/low end position may assist with the idle issue.

What's f/g? They look great.

Very nice. I've been fighting with mine all day.... carburetors.... batteries.... pffft.... Post a video of the first crank and fire

I feel the same. Furthermore, my engine builder insisted I run a high Zinc/Phosphorus oil and recommended Penn, should I have any interest in keeping my cam for any period of time. Found Amazon had a sale on the stuff send ordered 48 quarts for very cheap. So far, so good. I believe this to be less crucial for a stock valvetrain.

What bulb number did you go with? I ordered some Chinese led bulbs in various form factors a month ago and they havnt showed up. What I could find local for incandescent bulbs seemed to be too tall for the green plastic lens or too low a wattage. All new bulbs throughout and I still can't see any of my gauges at night except the 'newer' amp/fuel gauge that has the back light bulb location on the side, rather than the centre. Considering drilling another whole and splicing in a 2nd bulb per gauge, possibly knocking out the green domes.

Brave. Im terrified of taking apart intricate little switchrs like that. Glad you sorted it out! Picked up some JL goodies and 5 ch amp for the old girl, getting stoked for summer cruisin.

If the 23 mm doesn't work. Find a ~10 mm and cut a notch in it with a grinder so it'll sit over the wing. I find it works well.

The thing with resurfacing the dash yourself is going to be the tradeoff of factory texture and color. I jumped into my project last week without too much thought and it still turned out fairly well. My best advice is (since you'll be doing a lot of sanding), mix your body filler components and fiberglass resin components together in a ratio to get a pancake batter consistency. It'll partially self level and sand down faster than bondo itself, while taking longer to set up. I'll post a photo off my phone that shows a little bit how the texture turned out. I used an SEM texture spray can and semi gloss black trim paint. I'd recommend two cans of texture and a full can of spray paint. Then consider doing the same to your centre console or at the least, your glovebox door.

Must be different makers of caps, mine is thick enough you could use concrete to glue it on and there wouldn't be a line or bump.

Pulled dash and started putting 'new' dash together. Feeling a little conflicted about the AFR location. Between the 3 or 4 clocks I have I'm sure I can get one working. Any recommendations for an AFR mounting location, other than DS vent?

Taking a stab at this right now and I think it might be worse off than when I started! Autobody isn't my thing I guess. Filling the cracks will be the easy part, getting it smooth and in the shape you want so that black paint doesn't show where you've done work is the hard part. I vote full dash cover. Honestly my 1/2 dash really wasn't bad at all.

Started some dash repair and I'm in way over my head... But close to done sanding, I hope.

That's the worst.... a 'new' hazard switch fixed my woes.

Wired in dual widebands and realized I have some major carb issues

DLG -1 arrived. My clock doesn't work so I opted to use this location for this gauge for now. Doesn't exactly fit as well as I had hoped, but I did get it to fit in the clock housing after boring some holes for the harnesses to route through. Preliminary testing seems to work pretty well, let the adjusting begin.

ATF seems to work up in chilly Alberta, I've tried heavier oils and on cold days they seem unhappy about it. 10w30 seems to be my oil of choice for my 20-30 C ambient summer temps. ATF also seems to need to be topped up a lot more often.

I'm not a fan of the 40 profile on a Z either, but those slotted wheels that came on the car leave a lot to be desired, esthetically and performance - wise.

New shoes arrived today. 235/40R17 Federal SS595 on 17x8.5-0 Rota RKR-F, all around, no rolling or rub thanks to camber. -edit- BTW, these tires are STICKY. Feels like a completely different car on these 17's and in a good way.

Would it be safe to assume the 4 white marks on the pulley would be 0, 5, 10 and 15 degrees, given mine was dyno'd at 15 degrees, or is that a standard marking from them?

Thanks, my bar(s) were ordered by Silvermine, but shipped from MSA. Will need to compare notes with the Futofab site. I don't recall any documentation coming with my set.