oranngetang

I read a lot of posts claiming these cars handle better without a rear bar. I'll be putting mine on next week hopefully. Did you need to drill any holes for mounting (assuming it wasn't equipped with one, prior)?

I don't know why I'm noticing this, but is there no vertical defrost lines and no factory AM radio in this Series I? Mine has both and was less than 10% that price and has both. The FM came later, right?

FYI, Innovate is bow shipping the DLG-1. For under $400 USD you could have a nice digital dual AFR/Lambda gauge in place of the clock, with two Bosch sensors, and the ability to log data should you have a use for it.

FYI, I have my doubts about legit dyno numbers from them. If yours shipped with a 'tuned' distributor 180 degrees out, it doesn't help such suspicions. I received my dyno sheet with a foreign name, displacement, etc, on the page, I asked about it and received another dyno sheet (same sheet, same numbers, with my name typed it), so yeah... It could have been an honest mistake, but reading about this one really makes me ask myself who's numbers I have I'll 100% agree with the overwhelmed and busy statements. My 3 week engine was 6 months, and every time I checked it it felt like a run around, and misinformation, so I finally just stopped calling for a few months until I was about ready to ask for my money back and it shipped. The head on the engine I received has been ported, which I'm not sure I paid for, and it seems to run well, even if it sounds like a Cummins. Operationally, it seems like a good product, but I can't help but wonder how much QC is being overlooked with what seems to be such little oversight and customer communication. I'm glad you got yours sorted out, and hope it runs with more power and longevity than you're counting on. I didn't see a link for a video yet, is it up?

Ambitious! I got as far as disconnecting the heater fan and then promptly popped the hood, pulled the hoses off the block and capped it. I'm already contemplating installing the fan again just for show, or perhaps wiring in a heating element to the blower box. I really don't need heat other than to defrost a windshield on a rainy day, which I probably won't be driving in.

Hairline crack of some sort I couldn't even see, but could see fuel sweat through at the soldered bung on the DS vent line. Cleaned, and used JB Waterwelb putty, painted, re-installed and filled. No leaks as of yet. I did some youtubing/forum hunting prior to deciding on that product/method. All reviews and experiences basically stated the patch has never become an issue or since leaked. The lock-ring seal on sender unit also seems to be collecting dust, so I've ordered a new one of them. I don't think it would ever leak enough to get a drip out of it, but whatever. Clunking is coming from the two studs that secure the diff cover to the mustache bar. Either it's pounded them out, or the hole is too large. I tightened the studs/nuts as much as i could and let the car run in 1st on jackstands at a low idle, enough for the engine to kick once in a while and it's clear this is a shitty design. I may need to 'sleeve' those mounting holes OR weld a beefier plate over top at the proper diameter. The RT mount looks fine, minor movement on the bushing, I can't get a wrench on that bolt, but the split washer feels flat... Probably as tight as it'll sit. The front ujoint on the drive shaft has a little slop also... I'm also thinking the shaft should be an inch longer, so I might end up with a new driveshaft here soon. Replaced the tranni mount, didn't touch the engine mounts as only one was in the box... Will order another. Mocked up the new wheels and i can easily fit a 235-245 on the rear without rolling. The fronts look like a gamble for tire diamter though. Full lock will put the tire into the frame rail, but more realisticlly, I'm not sure how a tire that isn't fairly stretched will clear the front airdam/lower fender without a reasonable gap between the top of tire and fender. Either I need to aim for a ~24" tire or keep a raised stance... Found a loose tie-end end under there... whoops! Must have missed that wire tie. Any insight on that? If anyone has a photo of a non-flared Z on 17s, on a 24" to 25.3" tire, let me have em!!! I'm favoring a 235/45R17 right now as I can grab four for under $300 bucks on a clearance sale. Otherwise I'm open to any size, as long as I retain a usable sidewall for ROADS.

15's wouldn't fit my car unless they had a +25mm offset. I ended up with a set of 17x8.5-0 RKR-F's... Will see my options work out with tires now. Today, pulling fuel tank to see why it's dripping, mocking up new rims with fake rubber to get a width/profile idea, replacing motor mounts and tranni mounts, inspecting what has come loose in the rear to cause clunking on corners not under load. Diff is solid (welded), so the binding on corners is knocking something.... feels like the diff mount, but I'm solid mounted via an RT... so... will see!

Can't stand it! Glad I'm not with the ex anymore because it's all she'd talk about and I'd watch it with her on occasion. Admittedly I do have my come and go Netflix addictions at times, just not ever with this series, ever!

I might have you beat for MSA-FAIL... same boat though. They're my last resort.

Good thread, I certainly have some donors to put up here. Will compile a list and get it on here.

Not really.

Looking good Kirby. Burnouts in no time.

As per Dave Rebello. 0.010" at the valve tip, cold for all valves. Whereas 0.008/0.010" is the Nissan factory spec for a stock valve train IIRC.

Finally installed the pump spacer and went for a drive. Thanks again! BTW, I found the installation instruction during garage reclamation time yesterday and it mentioned the spacer was a mandatory addition. Diaphragm is GTG.

At last, snow-free roads. Took the car for a drive after dialing in the carbs for this weather, checked timing and topped up coolant after my heater core failure. Car ran really well, let cool down completely and checked valves. Only one needed to be tightened up a little. Pretty well 0.008 to 0.010 throughout at the tip. Adjusted all to 0.010", checked plugs, changed oil (now on Penn Semi 10W40). Ran the same, advanced by 3 degrees and lost significant pull below ~3500 rpm. I think I'm in the sweet spot, nice light brown plugs and tires that won't adhere after 3K in first gear, what a torque monster! Still sounds like a diesel under the hood though waiting on the release of the DLG-1 for an AFR gauge to see where it sits. Any progress worth your engine?

Oh, I should mention though that I was tuning the carbs a few days ago and my rear float chamber shot a stream of fuel about 3 feet in the air spontaneously.... i am running their jets I promise they work better than stock though!

Grose jet valves may be a good option if you have them apart. Talk to ZTherapy for a pair, if that's the issue.

Rumor has it an '04-05 STI R180 3.90:1 LSD will run you about $500, plus $500 for the stubs from Wolf Creek. A fairly inexpensive LSD option in a great ratio.

Could be a stuck or sunken float. I had a 260Z that had a pin hole in a float and it sunk, leaving fuel puking out the overflow.

Ordered new wheels, again... Definitely waiting for a test fit before buying rubber this time!

EGT gauges would be fun. My hope are to avoid a lot of aftermarket gauge pods though. Unless there are decent looking ones out there.

I was hoping one in each 'bank' would be sufficient. My header is a 6-2-1, so I have cylinders 1-3 and 4-6 collected separately before the firewall. Other than spark plug adjustment, what could be done to even out a cylinder that is running slightly leaner than the other two, other than richening up the mix for all 3, or degrading spark to that hole?

Any advice on where to find one of these insulators? I'm going to end up milling the centre out of an aluminum block-off plate soon by the look of current supply. Or even a material that might hold up?

Anyone else have any photos or preferences oft what tool/guage and sensor to use for AFR tuning on SUs? I'm kind of waiting for the DLG-1 to hit shelves for a dual setup on a single guage.

Swore at it for two hours trying to get the rear brake line to seal at the MC, even leaked with a brand new line... re-bled. Swore some more at Eden's decision to place his rear Wilwood calipers horizontally, requiring them to be removed to be bled... palm-face. Installed new K&N in stock air cleaner. Seems like a disastrous fit. Slouches down in the air box so who knows if its sealing at all. More stuff to throw in the trash! Also, need shorter bleeder screws for the new 15/16" MC as to not require removal to install air cleaner.... are you f-ing kidding me? Eden? There really seems to be nothing 'good' for an air cleaner solution, that I can find. Went for a drive to see if I could get the car running half-arse. Advanced and leaned out a little. Has no issue breaking loose in 2nd gear, but there is a charging issue somewhere because the car wouldn't turn over when I stopped for a coffee... borrowed a booster pack and drove home. Ammeter is full deflection to the right?! Headlights/wipers seem to make no difference. Car has bizarre behavioral issues accelerating. Same as before this rebello went in. Suspecting electrical gremlins of whom I really don't want to look for. Enjoyed the steamy windshield and psychedelic smoke machine which must be a leaking heater core.... It really just never, ever ends, not even for a moment! That said going sideways seems to make everything better for a moment.