oranngetang

Thanks, but I don't really consider this any sort of accomplishment at this point. The white stuff is the reason I ordered this engine over 6 months ago, only, to avoid it, not drive in it. Thankfully that's all that's left of it right now, so I have a couple of days to try and get the tires turning before it's parked for another 8 months. Need Kurbycar to post some pics of his. I feel like I might be winning an unspoken race right now.

Picked up the engine from work yesterday afternoon and had a couple of hours to get it home and in the car. Will try to get the manifolds and carbs, belt driven equipment, rad, etc. back in tonight when I'm home from work. Lots of silicone to scrape off the gasket surfaces and had to rob all the studs off my old engine. No idea why someone removed them from the Rebello engine. Flywheel fit well, but the dowels on the fidenza were kind of weird. I ground the bases down leaving a burr and tapped them in with some locktite... The crank still had a brass bushing in it so I just retained that and assembled the clutch. I hope the new parts work properly with the release bearing I have. Will do some trials on jack stands once the drive shaft is in and hopefully go for a stroll this evening before it dips to -20 C this week... Noticed right away the head ports have been polished a bit, not sure if this was robbed from another car and its a free value-added bonus or if it was part of the actual build.

I'll confirm the plugs that are in the engine when it arrives. There are other discrepancies on that sheet, and I didn't post all the data either...

Distance sensitivity aside, how frequently does your phone sample for a position? If it does it every 1/10th of a second and there is up to 3 yards in error for each measurement, how does it accurately know when you're even doing 60 MPH? I'm assuming these apps, (AND legit GPS speedometers, like the Autohut gauges) average speed based on average points over a set time. So while it's timing abilities may be accurate, I somewhat doubt that the time a car reaches an extrapolated velocity over an estimated distance is going to be much better than you can do with a stop watch. Watching some user videos of "aDyno" in action, shows a 0-60 time starting to calculate over a second after the car left the line and not giving a final result until several seconds after the speed was reached. There is some sort of algorithm at work, taking averages and making stuff up. Maybe that math works well in the end, but these same apps are doing theoretical dynos based on your cars mass and how quickly it pull from one RPM to the next in a certain gear, and of all times, a 0-60 is tricky to measure. A 1/4 mile app may be more accurate given a longer distance, with less acceleration. If the app considers accelerometer data, than it should know when you drop the clutch, when you shift, and when you're at speed based on acceleration alone. That would be an app I would use, but do phone accelerometers even work for that range of force? Do they all have the same standards, calibration and methods of detecting movement? Also, a lot of these will pair to an OBDII dongle and grab speed data from there in which case I imagine the GPS data isn't even used. I'll try it out, but if it says 5 seconds, and really I'm 5.5 or 4.5, that's an absolutely huge difference. I might buy an actual recording device for this, just to play with anyway. Maybe I'm mistaken.

I strongly question the accuracy of a 0-60 time based on a consumer grade GPS app, but I'll give it a try. If anyone knows of one that correlates accelerometer and gps data in the calculations, let me know. It's currently snowing like crazy anyway... Again, more delays in Antioch. Hopefully engine is here by Friday at least (was previously Monday as of last Wednesday). Kurby, we should try the same app and see what we get for results I'm very curious; perhaps as curious as I am to see what these bored carbs look like. If anyone has suggestions for some velocity stacks and filters... Or what to use to replace the factory airfilter rubber gasket o-ring thing.

Wasn't my engine on the dyno, as it only went on yesterday morning. Dyno's are always a mystery though. How it actually moves the car will be the test. I have a friend who had his ride dyno at 400 WHP at the performance shop that did the work and it ran like a bag of hammers. He took it to a reputable outfit who specializes in Subaru tuning, they didn't change any parts, but fixed the mapping, etc, it pulled way harder and ran perfectly smooth, but dyno'd at 230 WHP...

Probably a typo. Dave sent the dyno sheet with my name in the filename, but the customer name wasn't me and the engine was "2.75 L", so I called and inquired and this one came at me. He probably just changed the two entries, took a screen shot and re-sent. -Just checking the original file, disp and bore is the same in the "2.75 L" numbers. I vote typo.

FYI... Typed out the dyno sheet and plotted to chart for easier viewing.

Congrats. Dave called on Thursday to say the engine was going on dyno, havn't heard any numbers yet or shipping info, but it could possibly be already wrapped in plastic and ready to go.

Did you pick it up? Installed yet? Just called for an update and mine should be through the dyno process in a week or so... Mixed feelings :/

It's incredibly disappointing being given a time frame and having it mean nothing. I ordered the engine when there was still snow on the ground, there will now be snow on the ground again when it arrives... The car will now take another calendar year to complete, I missed the events I wanted the car to attend this summer, AND I know this is going to somehow cause an issue with my current conflict between my ride height and GC... Since I cannot drive or see where it sits with a complete drivetrain in it... I'd take my money back at anytime at this point.

Any updates on the engine build? Who knew 5 weeks would become 5 months!

Well, after eagerly awaiting 1" spacers, they worked. Decent tie-rod end and caliper clearance. Here is the stance of a GC kit on 1970' strut housings. Too-low in my oppinion. There is a threaded perch support with roughly 4 inches of vertical adjustment and this is photo is taken with them two threads BEYOND the HIGHEST possible setting. GC didn't of course supply any drilling, mounting or otherwise instructions, so I kind of went at this with imagination. I do now have their installation cutout sketch, and it's exactly what I did. No mention of whether the plates go above or below in the instructions, or dampener adjustment, or spring adjustment, or anything at all really. They supplied reinforced mounting hardware, so I'd assume the pretty plates go above and would now be fine, but after 3 consecutive emails asking this question the response was NO!... Brutal design. Seriously, include a bottom plate to take the load. These plates look like **** under the towers. With that said, I did mount the camber plates above the tower for now, so theoretically, you'd gain ~3/8" having them underneath, OR, the two threads I've exceeded... So, IMO they totally ****ed up with their plate support design and length of which they built the struts to. Luckily, I have adjustable control arms, so I was able to max out the tie-rod adjustment and move the axle line aft by about 3/4", which allows the tires to clear the fenders without rolling, while dramatically messing with my caster angle. I don't imagine once two people are sitting in this car, with a full fuel tank and driving forces applied that they'll not rub, or worse... A pretty unsatisfied customer at this point. Butchering Series I towers for a ride-height adjustable suspension system that isn't adjustable in height unless you're looking to remove the fenders and drag the crossmember down the road. ...

A bad wheel size choice for sure. Waiting on 1" adapters to show up so I can roll this thing outside and clean out the garage. I'm hoping 1/4' spacer will clear the calipers front and rear. More than likely going to sell the wheels off or modify the knuckles to allow the tie-rod to sit inside the rim. Rear suspension is in and so is the diff... I love how easy it is to set the ride height on these. Camber adjustment isn't much, but hopefully enough for the alignment guys.

Always seems to be a mystery as to what has been done to cars of this age. Mine appeared to be pretty original with the E31 head and 'A' cam. Still had the air pump, and associated smog thingies. I'm eagerly awaiting word of completion and shipping of my engine; I am really-super-disappointed about the whole process so far. Definitely could have spent my summer-play-fund in so many better ways, and may have bought a lot more engine if it was going to be a next year project. Really hoping the tardy 3.0L is worth the wait and free of headaches.

Nice clean garage; mine is a disaster. Dave called last week to let me know the engine is delayed. No crank pulleys in existence from the sounds of it. Ready for the dyno otherwise I believe. Wish I was ready to pull my engine out As is I can't even get wheels on it, to do it.

Looking at these pics, and given my level of frustration I may have even missed that the hub doesn't clear the wheel. Looks that way at least... Maybe I have the wrong wheels!

Why I didn't try and take a photo of the knuckle to rim clearance... whatever I was tired! I doubt I'll be home for a few days. Will hack and slash the other side and get everything installed and start measuring out spacers I suppose... Is there something I obviously assembled incorrectly here? These knuckles are shorter than stock, it must just be the offset and raised wheel hub position that is causing this. And for those that will feel the need to say my camber plates are on the wrong side of the towers.... I'm well aware.

Well, it's hitting without the studs even clearing the bolting surface of the wheel, so pretty much not even close. It is more specifically the tie rod end ball joint that is hitting. I went with AZC shorter knuckles, so maybe it's that spacer that is causing the geometry issue. I don't think a 16" 0 offset would even fit at this point. Furthermore, the calipers are pretty much touching too... Can't honestly tell if they'd clear. Will need to remove the tie rod end, and see if the rim will clear the wheels and springs. If so, maybe I'll run factory knuckles. If not, I don't see any other option than spacers. If I need to run flares I'm going to loose my mind. $3000 of suspension to solve that problem and still at square one. I'll post pics in a bit. At work...

Front drivers suspension is installed AND... rim doesn't clear knuckle!!! Surprise, surprise... I must have ****ed up!

What did you run for rear hard lines to the Wilwoods? Do the little (valves?) on the sub frame need to be bypassed?

So everything is here and ready to be bolted in except I'm still waiting on spindle pins, bearings, etc from an order that STILL hasn't shipped.... The Wilwood calipers are very light but wow are those rotors the opposite. The factory aluminum drums must weigh less than 1/4 what a rotor does! I don't think the calipers will even be visible behind the Hayashi knock-offs I ordered, but the holes and slots might give an interesting aesthetic. The ground control stuff looks prettier than the brakes and the powder coating is fantastic for the rusted stuff they started with. Will post pics of the install and the hacking of the towers. ou For those running the Wilwood 4 piston calipers, did you gut the rear hard lines, bypass the boxes (checkvalves/prop valves?/no idea) at the drums or tie in the same as the drums were? Will be installing a 15/16" MC and Wilwood prop valve in the bay.

If you want huge and cheap power, a stock L28E / L28ET block running higher than stock boost (on the stock turbo) with some head work (which you're doing anyway), will make more power than either of our NA engines.

Datsun Spirit builds good motors on a budget too. I was looking at an ou can with STR ver.B without a core and shipping to Canada for a fair bit under $5000. I believe the engine itself is under $3500 if you provide a core. You can spend as much as you want, as you can with Rebello. I've read nothing but the highest opinions of Eiji regarding his customer service and engine build quality. I went with Rebello because I made contact with them first and it sounded like a <3 week completion at the time, also the power figures (or claims), seemed higher per dollar.

I think we will make the same power, and you'll spend about 30% of what mine cost... come on.... get it dyno'd and tuned!