oranngetang

She runs, thermostat opened, guage works, all is well.

I would hate to start a new thread for basically the same questions, so... I just hooked up the electrical to my engine and started it for the first time since installing it (not rebuilt). I filled the rad with water and opened the drain with a hose running in the filler as my manual suggested. My concern is... Whether or not the engine has prime in the coolant system. I may be over-worrying, but now I'm wondering if maybe I put the thermostat in upside down or something stupid like that. I took out the large bolt under the thermostat and water drained our immediately, and the radiator level dropped. I'm assuming with the thermostat closed, and that bolt being below it, the water would be circulating through the bottom rad hose and out the thermostat, rather than draining backwards from the upper rad hose. In theory, the entire system should be primed then. I'm nervous to wait on the thermostat to open when I'm uncertain the head is full... Any advice is welcome.

If anyone has a parking light blank for sale, PM me. Good information. Someone hacked at the wiring under the console, but following the leads back to the harness it looks like the car only had the defrost switch, and no parking light switches.

What goes in the cutout next to the defrost switch in a 1970 240Z choke plate? I have never seen a picture of a car that has that piece or where the owner hasn't created their own "blank" to fill the spot. Is it a light, a button, a switch...?

I know this thread is old, but I recently used the same set of FelPro seals you to change out mine. Make sure before you add sealant and install the cap that you first slide the side seals all the way in until they bottom out. Get an idea for how much they stick out above the oil pan gasket surface, as you'll need to trim them later, but also want to make sure they're all the way in... I left about 2mm sticking up so the cork oil pan gasket and side seal would make contact, not leaving a gap under the surface. I also noticed that there was a decent wear groove and scar in the crank where the old seal sat, so I pushed the seal in, again about 2mm to overlap some thicker crank. I don't know if it will help, but I can't see it hurting anything. You could probably move it 3mm in either direction prior to tightening up the cap bolts.

To each their own but you wouldn't catch me dropping a non-Nissan engine into my 240Z. It may be 4 cylinders but it looks a like it has more power than say, a 6 cylinder L series, and suites the modernized asthetic well.

Madkaw, what did you end up coating the floors with?

I'm trying to find a supplier that carries these parts together. Is there such a place? MSA only carries the floor pans with a ~20% mark-up that I can deal with but, no rails, or seat brackets. Z Car Source carries only the floor pans with a ~75% !!!! mark-up and only used seat brackets. Bid Dog doesn't list their seat brackets, but doesn't appear to carry any floor pans. Zedd Findings, has the best price since they appear to be the source but only supplies pans. Showcars Bodyparts supplies seat brackets, pans and front frame rails, which appear to be Bad Dog / Zedd Findings, but I can't get a hold of them and their website looks to be about 15 years old... Has anyone dealt with them before? The markup on their parts seems to be the most reasonable and they carry all the parts one would need.

I replaced the stock coil on the driver's fender with an MSD Blaster 2 with MSD ballast, and noticed the stock coil has a condenser mounted on the ballast. There is what looks to be a second condenser on the distributor itself. Is it normal to have two? Should I replace both with new units?

Thanks for the input. Other than dropping the engine and trans into it a couple of days ago, the car has nothing in it. Interior-free so to speak. I suppose 20-30 hours is a fair estimate.

I am getting my 70' 240Z ready for an inspection so I can get it on the road. There is some major corrosion/mechanical damage to the floor pans on both sides, so feeling that I wanted this done properly (I do own a Mig welder and have the tools to do it myself), I took it to a body shop in town. We havn't agreed ona price yet, but I'll be supplying the floor pans for the repairs. How many hours would it take for a professional bodyman to cut out the old floors and weld in the new ones and seat supports? I'm getting a vibe of 2000-3000 dollars so, 20-30 hours respectively, which seems like a lot. I think for about 10 hours I could do this myself, with no prior training. The pans as you're familiar with are about $500 to my hands (Zedd Findings / Bad Dog). I'm going in towmorrow morning to talk with the guy about it after we look at the car. What is the maximum amount of hours I should be looking at.. Floor pans and supports ONLY.

Took car to body shop for floor pan corrosion repair. Sounds like new pans and supports... $$$

And it's in. Screwed up valve cover paint on the way in. I guess header paint remains soft until baked.

Installing engine and transmission.

It is time to contribute to this thread I guess... Nice an empty for another hour or so.

Whoops! I saw 4-19 and figured it was the most recent thread. Must have missed that extra "0" in 2012.

My Ztherapy carbs arrived today. If you want to see what they look like before and after, here is an example. I obviously dished out a little more for the whole works to be polished and redone, but the carbs would be the same as what you're looking for. I didn't take a picture of the new fuel rail, or linkages, but you get the idea.

Sounds like acoustic sealant. There really is nothing that works better for sealing vapour barrier, but it is messy and terrible stuff. For a while one wall in my garage, and my tool chest was covered in it, after the ceiling vapour barrier started to fall down... nasty, nasty. Brake cleaner seems to help with clean up a little. Today I opened up a box from Ztherapy... Suddenly I felt a kick in the pants to get the engine in! I need to cut out a section of floor and replace it, but apparently local code says it needs to overlap 1.5" and be welded AND riveted... They can't be serious. If I grind everything clean, and spot weld a perfect fitting piece to replace the one I cut out, prime and seal it, whats the problem? I bet I could POR 15 that area to match the rest of my floor and they wouldn't have a clue. The factory floor plans are essentially held in place the same way, are they not?

Glued in new carpet. Bye bye vinyl! Bolting trannit to engine, prep. engine install.

Wire wheeled misc. brackets and pieces under the hood, and gave them a clear coat. Got bored and moved onto the interior. Ripped out old vinyl and carpet, seats and seat belts. Test fit new carpet kit Hammered out mystery floorpan dents, someone did some serious offroading. Vacuumed and wirebrushed the dried mud and sand from under the driver's seat carpet... I think this car spent some time in a river, or mud-bogging, hense the substantial floor-pan damage, rot and river mud? Wondered how I'm going to fix the rusted out hole under the driver's seat on the subframe Drilled out shift pin hole and ran bolt through to reduce play in stick... Serious engineering fail on the inevitable wear on tear on the fork. Installed clutch fork and slave cylinder Clear-coated finished engine Went to Canadian Tire and bought two cheap door mirrors that look suprising better than expected Test fit new-to-me rusty headlight bucket after throwing out MSA headlight bucket becuase a piece of dried mud would fit better than that crap. Satisfied enough with the fit, ground of old studs and welded in new ones. Gave up on that for now. Greased passenger's side window tracks and rollers, window now works! Noticed locks and latch mechanism on both doors does not work and broken... Came here to investigate replacing entire locking assemblies Wondered why popular Zcar part supplier sent a shift pin and snap ring when the shift pin requires a pin and not a snap ring. Furthermore had the shift pin they sent been the one that required a snap ring, the snap ring they sent is the wrong size... Wondered why other popular Zcar part supplier is always out of stock of their outsourced parts... Wondered who the suppliers are so I can dodge the middle man, pay less and get my shipments to my door weeks sooner. Wondered how this car ever passed an out of country inspection to get into my hands when it's clearly broken everywhere, doesn't have legal seatbelts, doesn't have door locks and the driver's side window track is broken. Had two beers and went back and sat in the car, on the floor, not in that order. Pulled steering wheel Removed brutal leather wrap from wheel. Sanded the **** out of the wheel and wondered what finish would work best while matching the shift knob. Removed door weatherstripping from door frames, and stared at door lock.... Came back in house and again researched door locks... Found this thread. Anyone got a link to good how to on door lock replacement? By lock I mean everything.

Any thoughts on making one out of a chunk of plastic on the band saw / scroll saw? I think aluminum or steel would be a pain, and probably bind in the track / oxidize, no matter how greased it is. If someone has a bottom window track from a broken window and this piece is intact, fire a PM over to me.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but is there a supplier of this piece? I've been looking for an hour on google, ebay, this site, MSA and zcarsource for one. My driver's side runner or whatever you want to call this thing is broken and the window falls out of the track and the regulator completely when rolled down.

The gasket set showed up a couple of days ago. Yesterday I set the valve lash and put the new main seal and side seals in, resting it further in to the block as to not ride in the old wear groove. I'm about to thread seal any internal bell housing bolts that penetrate the gear box, but Im hoping someone has advice for changing that input shaft seal. It looks like it'll just pull out with a pick and seal/push a new one in its place. Any thought? My books don't cover this.

I read your post before attempting it, and thoroughly scrubbed the epoxy with a a toothbrush, but it kept 'healing'. I think the product I used probably wasn't suitable. Do you think sanding down and texturing may be the only fix>?

I attempted to fill some minor cracks with a standard 2 part epoxy and it ended up drying with an incredibly smooth sheen. I also tried to keep it from smoothing out the texture, but it did. Any advice on rectifying the gloss aftermath? I've played with some primer and and paint, I might have to try and sand the whole thing down smooth and use a textured paint. Unless someone has advice. I picked up my sharpies yesterday!