oranngetang

The carbs look great. Did the engine run like a dream or did you need to do some tuning on your end to get it running well? Diseazd, is the valve cover painted? It looks like it is. What method did you use to get the carbs to that finish? That's an achievable asthetic for me, I'm impressed.

Thanks guys. I really like the flat/satin black valve cover with the silver letters look. For going completely stock, I don't think I've seen a cleaner bay than your motorman. I know ztherapy does some good carb/intake restoration, I can't imagine what you must have gone through the get all the emission stuff looking that clean. Amazing! I on the other hand will be keeping the SU carbs, but capping the emissions stuff. The coolant flow-through lines on the carbs are rotted out and I bought an exhaust header. Has anyone done a braided fuel rail to replace the stock one? Mine is badly bent and will never looks nice and straight again.

I'm in the process of re-finishing my engine components and cleaning up some over-spray in the bay itself. I would really like to see some what some of you guys have done with yours. I'm considering getting the valve cover and all front timing cover pieces, intake manifold and maybe the oil pan and exhaust header powder coated in a polished metal look. I've repainted the block to close to factory blue, but I'm not sure how good it would look with everything else assembled. Some of the sharpest looking bays I've stumbled across are silver or black blocks with body colored valve covers. I'll be posting pics as mine comes together.

I ordered a rear main seal kit that should come with the side seals, a front input and rear output seal for the tranni, and a new clutch slave cylinder. I'll also take out that bolt, put some sealant on it and run it back in. Obviously new oilpan gasket is also enroute. Is there anything else I should do while I'm at it? Another question, having the valve cover and oilpan off and on, I have been trying to keep any comtaminents out of the engine, but wouldn't mind giving it a 'flush' before sealing it all back up. Would diesel or something like it work to spray/drain out any dust before filling it with oil? I'll be doing an oil change after an initial run/flush anyway. I was expecting to be rebuilding this engine, but it looks like it's been recently done. The valvetrain and pistons look brand new, though the valves look a little out of adjustment.

I don't mind changing everything, and it's probably a good idea like you said. Would you happen to have the part numbers or suppliers of the seals you ordered? I've been browsing rockauto, but there seems to be many different seals of different sizes and brands with the same part description. And I couldn't find any seals on MSA. Just ordered Haynes manual and downloaded the Tom Monroe book to my Android tablet.

This is somewhat my first mechanical project, so these might seem like silly questions... I have the engine and transmission out of my '70 Z. I had an annoying oil leak that would drip from the centre of the transmission onto the road, but couldn't figure out where exactly it was coming from. Upon removing the clutch linkage from the clutch cylinder I noticed the rubber boot was full of oil and this appeared to be where the oil was coming from. The inside of the bell housing is oil-dirty but not exactly wet, and the flywheel on both sides is dirty, but dry. If the rear main seal on the engine was leaking I would think the flywheel would be damp or wet looking. It doesn't have the gear oil stink to it, so I'm wondering what you guys think the problem might be. The oil pan seal looks sketchy and wet, so thatmight be all it is. I took some iphone pics the best I was able to with a trouble light as a flash. I don't know how many miles are on this car, the speedometer does not work, and it's been parked in a garage for the past 5 years or so. I ordered an engine rebuild gasket set from MSA along with some other stuff, but didn't see any seals on their site. If anyone has a link or advice on where to get the seals I'll need to aquire, please PM them to me. I've added some comment/questions to the pictures. Rear Main Seal - looks like it might be worn, where the flash glare is. Other Side From the bottom The dirty clutch cylinder boot / area. The cylinder seal itself seems dry, I doubt it's clutch fluid that is leaking. Input shaft seal and fork. If it looks bad let me know, the rubbers on the fork look cracked and worn. Another angle, looks like the oil is running down to the clutch cylinder boot from the front input shaft maybe. Is this a crack or a stain, the way it goes two directions at the the bolt hole looks like a crack... Is it safe to reinstall this bell housing or should I be looking for another?

A few pics from the pull. Thanks again for the advice. Stripped the intake and exhaust manifolds with carbs and fuel lines as one piece(s), smog pump is next, and I may aswell remove the alternator for cleaning and inspection. Mocked the header on the exhause and it'll need to be trimmed to clear the thermostat housing. I don't know how involved I want to get with this engine. I keep having the turbo LS6 swapped being pushed at me, but part of my wants to keep this car 100% Nissan/Datsun.

Engine is out! Most of the console screws were missing, and the pulling the choke cables through was helpful advice. Couldn't figure out the shifter pivot thing, so I removed the stick from the linkage instead. Oddly every bolt and nut on this car is practically finger tight, the driveshaft nuts came off without a wrench, as did the rad and some other stuff.

Thanks! I'll be changing the bushings for sure. They're completely destroyed, I can already tell. I'll post my progress.

I already regret starting this thread, but I've done multiple searches for an answer, which I cannot find. So it's probably ridiculously easy... Anyway, I'm pulling the engine and trans out of my 70' Z tonight, and have disconnected all the hoses, wires, linkages, removed the air cleaner, fan, rad, and drained the fluids from engine and trans. I'm about to go back into the garage and pull the driveshaft out by unbolting it from the diff and sliding it out of the trans. My question is.. How on earth do you remove the shifter? My guess is the console needs to come off and then it'll be fairly self explanatory, perhaps some screws holding down the rubber neck on the shift stick and then a C-ring or something and that might be it. So how does the console come off? If the console does NOT need to come off, now is the time to tell me OR, if there is an easier way please let me know. An any advice for the engine/tranni lift is appreciated. Though I'm sure it'll go a lot easer than it did on my 02' Pathfinder...

Engine is ready to come out as soon as I find a hoist to borrow. The brand new engine stand is waiting.. Going to need to research what people do with the intake manifold, once SMOG is removed. Looks like brass caps and plugs for the most part. Will probably tap cut and tap the water lines in the carbs too, they're rotted completely apart.

I started a new job shortly after having the 240Z roll into my garage. I literally havn't had a free hour in months to even look at the Datsun. Work is starting to slow down and I'm finding I have some time around the house other than for sleeping. I ordered a bunch of stuff today for the car from MSA, mainly wire harnesses for parking and headlights, a new fuse panel, carb gaskets, right side headlight case, front bumper and some other stuff, also a pacesetter exhause header, which seems to have mixed reviews. The air pump on the engine is siezed and the smog rails look terrible in the engine bay. Hopefully the stuff ships within the next week or so so I can start working on the car. Seeing as how I'll be pulling the emissions stuff off the engine, and there is an oil leak and sloppy shifter, as well as a potentially stripped speedo gear. I think it makes sence to drop the tranni and pull the engine to work on all of it. With it all out of the way I could really dive into the front end electrical harness and start seeing how bad everything is. There ~6x4" panel in the console with the choke and what looks to be a rear defrost switch, and maybe some sort of parking light switch, which is broken and msising a substantial piece, also some random wires that have been replaced not too long ago are hanging out. If anyone has one of these panels for sale, or knows of someone who has a spare, please let me know. BTW, if I didn't post before, the hazard switched works like a dream and solved the tail light issues, so thank you!!!

It seems to operate more as an idle speed than a choke, but that might just be a characteristic of these carbs. I've had the car for a few weeks now and only have had an hour or two to tinker with it. The new hazard switch seems to have fixed the signal issue, but I havn't been able to check the brake lights yet, the battery is charging today... I'll post some pics of the 280 dash soon, but I'll be in Vancouver for the next 4 days or so, then back for one, and gone for another 2 weeks working. I have a feeling this car isn't going to get much attention for a while. Thanks for the hazard switch advice. One headlight is still very dim, and by playing with the fuse in it's holder, it either gets brighter or goes out... It sounds like these cars really benefit from energy efficient bulbs and relays. If the lights work after the battery is charged, my next task will need to get the tach and speedo working. The dash has a half-cap, so pulling the tach out might be impossible without removing the entire dash. Any advice or links would be much appreciated. I'll do some studying while I'm in Van.

I believe the car came from San Diego, CA, and was kept in BC for the past 7 years or so. Under the interior and behind the brake cylinder, the paint is goldish in color. Build date is 6/70.

I should mention that the cardboard box in the back of the car had a 280Z dash in it, in remarkable condition. Were they prone to cracking like the earlier cars?

Thanks everyone. I did some cleaning in it today, and found some parts under the seats and around the truck area. I glued ashtray/lighter bezel back together and it looks great. The interior of the car is really impressing me, but I noticed today the dash has a cap on it, so it's not original. I feel nervous about starting new threads here as there is so much information, but my searches are coming to dead ends. The second headlight that didn't work was just a corroded connection at the fuse box. It's still a little weak, and not int he best condition so if I can figure out how to remove it, I probably will, and hit the terminals with a small wire brush and some electraX. The tail light issue and the blinker issue is probably linked to the hazard switch which seems to be broken anyway. You can lift up the lever and it just falls back down. No resistance or feel to it at all. I'm willing to bet if I can get it out and working, or replaced it might solve the issue.

I couldn't login. I meant to register orangetang... whoops. VIN is HLS3005881, says the old insurance slip. Pics are up. Edit- Just noticed in picture 4, what looks to be an edlebrock performer intake manifold. I should go check that out. I wonder if someone was planning something... I know he had a 396 in the Nova, but no 350s.

Here are some pics. Its got two slide slots on the console, but only one lever. Is that normal?

Hi everyone, This is my first post here. I'm proud to say that I just finished up a ~2800km round-trip to tow a new to me 1970 240Z to my house. It needed a boost to turn over, but started easily and drove onto the trailer without issues. I gave it a good cleaning today and it's in better condition than I had expected. I don't have any pictures up yet, but I'll post some soon. Here's a quick summary of what it is. Body: The body and paint appear to be in pretty good shape, there are a couple of small bubbles/cracks forming where the B-pillar meets the roof line. Also some body damage to the front end fibre-glass pieces. Other than that it looks pretty solid. The fender wells front and back look great, and the floor has been coated with POR-15 or some sort of hardening epoxy paint several years ago. I'm pretty sure it's been re-painted within the last decade. Driver's side window is out of it's track and won't go up. I can't figure it out for the life of me. Upholstery: The black leather upholstery looks very recent, or otherwise kept in immaculate condition. There are no tears in the seats, and most of the diamond-pleather liner is intact and looking good. Sun visors and door panels are near perfect. Interior: The dash has a very minor crack in it above the clock, and the area beneath the AM radio is broken, as is the mystery assembly by the choke, with some wires hanging out of it. Tach and speedo not working. Clock not working, ammeter and radio works. Leather wrapped, wood steering wheel really needs some reconditioning. Engine/Transmission: Original L24 AFAIK. Seems to be running rich, and hesitates but really starts to pull at mid to high rpms. Otherwise runs smooth and starts without a stumble. Transmission shifts well through all gears. Clutch feels newish. There is an oil drop coming from the bottom rear of the engine. Electrical: Where to begin... Pretty much only the starter, horn, AM radio and passenger-side headlight and running-tail lights work. No signals, backup lights, brake lights, or highbeams. Also the driver's side wiper seems to be stripped and only moves on occasion. So... I plan to start trouble shooting the electrical and working my way towards a road-worthy state in that sence. If I can get it insured and legal to be on the road, I'll attack the carbs and get the mixture issues sorted out. Interior stuff is the least of my worries, and since there doesn't seem to be any immediately threatening rust spots, I think it should be ok to ignore those blemishes for now. Any advice? This is my first Z-car and it's somewhat sentimental to me for other reasons, so keeping it around for years to come is important. I'm going to start by googling electrical diagrams. The car was recently insured and regristered out of my province, so I'm guessing the electrical issue is probably an easy fix, like a main ground or something. Everything must have worked in it a year or two ago to pass that inspection.