Z Greek

Captain obvious. If you happen to see this, I sent you a PM, but have not gotten a reply. Would you be interests in making, and selling 4 of your redesigned spray bars? thanks, Andy K

Hey Jeff, small world!

Check out the rules at Chumpcar.com. I sent you a PM with a few details about this car.

Thanks, My two lifelong "car buddies" are responsible for the scheme. They came over Friday night (drove from Seattle, 300 miles to where I live in Spokane), and we were done by Saturday at 4pm. I could have spent a little more time on prep, but it is a Chumpcar! Car was a mess. Lot's of "ghetto" bodywork. I bought the car complete for $300 as a parts car. After I took everything I wanted for my street car, there was so much left, I had to do something with it. So it became a Chumpcar!

I have not posted here for awhile. I have been building a budget endurance racer (Chumpcar). I put some color on her yesterday, and thought I'd share a few pictures. It's certainly no show car, but it turned out pretty good.

I also have a 74 260, welcome to the zoo!

In my humble opinion, if it is an automatic, it aint really a sports car!

I say the ridge is probably just carbon, because in these engines, it usually is! These blocks are very durable. I agree with cygnusx1 above, except I would invest the money and have a machine shop hone the block on a Sunnen machine. Properly done, the machine will take out most of what taper you have (depending on what it actually is), hand honing will only add to it. I qualify all this by saying only make this decision after you have the bore accurately measured at a competent machine shop. Since the block is already there, then you can make an informed decision whether to have it bored or not. You can order pistions and rings at that point if necessary, and have them there in 2-3 days. This is my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions! Good luck!

How did you measure the cylinder taper? An accurate dial bore gauge is required to accurately measure this, and it takes practice to get it right. I suspect the ridge you feel is just carbon. How badly are the piston skirts scuffed? Do you have any pictures of the pistons? Have the bore measured by someone who knows what they are doing, and make your decision from there. I am all for "doing it right," however, if you can save a few hundred on boring, and new pistons, and still end up with a quality job, the money can be spent elsewhere, (like on the head, that's where the power is) Datsun blocks are VERY durable, and the original parts are very good. Also, I would highly recommend accurately measuring bearing clearances with replacement bearing shells, I have seen new standard aftermarket bearings with too much clearance on a polished crank which is within tolerance That's my two cents.

Sounds like a blast OJ. My Z's room-mate is a 67 2000 Roadster, but it is 22 degrees here (although the sun is just coming up, and it looks like it will be a glorious sunny day!), still a bit chilly for a spin in the old 2000. Managed to get the short block assembled for the Z last weekend, though, so making some progress on it! Enjoy the ride!

Payment received, sold.

Sold pending payment

Update on above. I found this set up new at Racing lab for $501 plus shipping. I will take $250, shipping included anywhere in the continental US.

That's pretty damn cool!

I have a set of Tokico springs and struts for 280Z. I purchased these from a fellow at hybrid Z, and I am not going to use them. Parts are as follows: 2) 5022F Tokico springs. 2) 5022R Tokico springs 2) HZ3038 Tokico struts 2) HZ3013 Tokico struts These parts are used, but appear to be in good condition. I had these springs tested at a friend of mines race shop. The front springs tested at 198 pounds per inch, and the rears tested at 177 pounds per inch. I paid $300 for them a couple of months ago, make me an offer!