LEN168

I would assume that parts for RB series are easier to get in Aus and Japan of course, and its only logic to see that they are a better choice for me due to those factors. L motors go for like nothing in California, and the turbo engine and driveline goes for a little more than nothing, making it a no brainer for me. If we in USA ever had RBs im sure Id have one, but for now it will just be a nice thing to see I guess. No disagreements about power or fuel economy vs. L series for me, but the L28et is not a joke either...

Hey im in fremont area and maybe we can work something out. L28etman@yahoo.com

ran n42 head on f54 flattop before turbo on my 75 3 angle valve job mild cam, turbo fuel injectors and na guts in turbo afm with some adjusting. 4.11 r200 and 14x6 six spoke wheels with a header and a 2.5 inch exhaust, thing ran SICK... basically the brian little buildup with efi vs. su carbs, thing was cool to drive thats for dang sure, 7000 rpm shots in every gear, loud chirps whenever I wanted, and 20mpg once I got it on a dyno. Ran 14.4 with that setup, which is exactly what I did my first time out with the turbo motor with stock boost, no intercooler, a few minor bolt ons, big exhaust, and a 3.54 rear gear with the same trans. Difference here being I get 25mpg average on the fwy now with a high of almost 30mpg on long trips averaging 85-90mph, where I got 20mpg on the NA doing the same speeds. If I would have put the NA engine in a 240z high 13s would be possible, and I would run carbs on it and really kick some butt!!! Either way, if its fun thats all that matters to me.

f54 is best, f the rest. turbo head best designed turbo block has low comp pistons-the onlydifference between that and the na from 81-83 is the pistons heads block swap with any l28 l28et is good beginer turbo engine due to low compression and high quench head setup-tough as nails. you can turbo any L motor and make sick power only reason turbo motor is prefered in my case is that I use complete efi setup as well, turbo motor tolerates more. NA flattop f54 with turbo head brings cr to around 8.8 from 7.4 (stock turbo cr) and with tuning will put the smash down. engines blow up from detonation, not boost. I run guts of boost daily, and I love it.

Hey, just wanted to say thanx, I used the 2x4 trick yesterday (actually I improvised and used a wedged an old sway bar against the seat moved all the way forward!) to bleed my clutch slave, worked great!!!!

canton Ly, for a good engine rebuilt cheap, try Ma's auto in hayward, i may be working there soon, not sure about L motor rebuilt, but they just did a lexus 6 banger rebuild for 700!!! they do rebuilds for shops a lot cheaper but im figuring about 5-600 for L motor, its so dang cheap im farming mine off to them 300 hp from the L turbo- is nothing. i have 242 dyno computed hp out of my car, with stock innards and bolt on stuff. Im using stock efi and limited to 6k rpm with the ignition curve right now and stock efi. I could sneak 260-270 out of the stock injectors if i had a standalone efi, which i will be doing sooner than later. with a simple injector swap, I could hit 300hp before i would have to do a turbo upgrade, im gonna throw a ball bearing t4 and really kick some arse. i seriously believe an any L28 can make 300hp turbo, if you maintain a proper air fuel ratio.

turbo manifold and downpipe 80.00 plus shipping and handling turbo fuel injection manifold with: throttle body tps fuel rail with injectors new fuel pressure regulator all vacum still connected egr complete throttle linkage j-pipe still connected to manifold 100.00 plus shipping and handling came off excellent running car. r200 3.90w/matching driveshaft inquiries to sevenduececlassic@yahoo.com thanx.

ive been told this is very good and that max psi per hole should be 143? i have 125 give or take one to three psi across the whole six on my motor right now and wondering if it will take some more boost givin the right supporting mods. thanx.

the stock harness is pretty simple to hook up, very simple especially because you dont need any of the emissions stuff, which deletes a whole lot of vacum and electrical right off the bat. heres too options: buy a junky 280zxt and beat the crap out of it for a while, and study that harness well or go to the junkyard, with the SOLE intention of grabbing that harness complete, even the stuff you will throw away anyway, get ready to rip a dashboard to shreds and at the same time be very patient with those connectors, saving those little rings that snug everything. heres a breakdown of what you WILL need. ecu afm tps distributor ignition transistor boost sensor head temp sensor knock sensor vehicle speed sensor (VSS) this harness comes in one big pigtail: -geen and tan relays, green is efi, the tan one i dont know, havent had any problems with it. -fusible links -alternator wiring -injector harness -tps plug -distributor plug -three or four efi grounds to the manifold -afm plug -unplug ecu and put somewhere nice -leads to positive and negative on battery, not the cables themselves but the leads factory has wired to battery to harness -leads to ignition transistor -VSS is in the steering column, tiime to bash that dashboard in. take your time and find the way to get all this stuff out of the car without ripping the harness at all, its not that hard, it does get tedious and may take you a couple hours. I would also add not to grab the 81 turbo harness, it uses a crank angle sensor mounted on the crank pulley, and its a little harder to use than 82-83-which have the sensor in the distributor. dont trip if it takes you a long time to understand. The first time i took a harness it took me four and a half hours, i will now take me an hour or so to do a better job than i did the first time. good luck.