rupertjab89

thanks for the help! it's an L26, with an E88 head. perfect. i appreciate the help!

Hey everyone, I know you guys are all about keeping things lightly modified or stock. 2 pretty straight questions for what could become a large modification (just to get me started). I was told the engine in my 71 240z is a 260z engine/transmission. Are there any numbers on the block that would tell me what the truth is? Same for the transmission? If it is a 260z, can I bore it to make a 280Z engine out of it (since a 280 is a bored 260, this makes sense, unless i'm missing something)? The end result I want is a carbureted 280Z that runs well and fast with a 5 speed transmission, for as cheap as i can do it (i'm pretty good with a wrench, dad welds, need to hire boring/milling) Thanks!!

Ron? Who's Ron? Hi, I'm Rob. My dad and I haven done EXTENSIVE following of wires and grounds and current checking and voltage checking on many wires and connections and everything. The wiring has been hacked up and messed with by at least one previous owner. The dash wiring is awful because someone must have REALLY needed their stereo wired up and pulled power and switched grounds around wherever they could. It was so bad I simply pulled the stereo and speakers and have no desire to fix THAT problem right now, instead focusing on the drivability of the car. Knowing that someone liked to mess with wiring before I got to it, tracking the actual problem in the harness in the engine compartment was a large chore. In order to make less work, (we both hate wiring), is there a place to get a new wiring harness for this old of a vehicle, or would i be stuck rebuilding/wiring the harness? I'm guessing there are multiple wires drawing excessively on the system (corroded due to poor storage). I still need to get my ignition checked out too, another problem of it's own. The wiring is a cluster all around on this car, and so, is there a place I can get new harnesses and start fresh, or is that something no one does?

Park. Tail is heating up. The tail lights were in great shape, but the parking lights (the lower one's, the combo park/turn signal lights), were the one's we were messing with. You're saying if I add parallel circuits, it causes a higher strain on the system?

So some fun things happened (exciting i guess, maybe not fun) 1. the dome light shorted out and started a minor electrical burn. luckily my dad and i caught it in time, now it just stinks. 2. some grounds were terribly bad, so we cleaned up the terminals and put them back. 3. the turn signal sockets were not getting ground. i had to pull some off a 2000 altima and cut a tab off, but they fit pretty good with a little permatex 4. i replaced a lot of fuses (some were the incorrect amp) 5. the PO had an aftermarket stereo hack/slash install, so the center wires were really mashed/confusing because soo many wires were tapped in where ever the PO could pull power 6. everything works now, gotta make a couple of the new ground wires prettier and replace a couple fuses yet. another question, there is still heat in the fuse block on one fuse. does this signal a minor short occuring that i should be looking for yet?

I have a 71 240z, i believe it's a series II (build date 8/71), and my fuse panel looks much different. I have the round fuses... "the common is for the accessories"... but what does it do for the accessories? is it supposed to be a wire type fuse or a ... flat filament? type of fuse. i recently had a bad dome light experience. the switch for the dome light overheated, and almost started on fire in my car, and the "common" fuse finally broke after we saw smoke, so that was interesting. any tips would be wonderful.