Gee

I have nothing to do with the sale of this thing, but wasn't this car owned by someone on this site only a few months ago? I think it was formerly a Canberra car... Click HERE to see it.

My theory: 240z UP in value 260z flat (to marginal increase as people give up trying to find a 240!) 2+2 flat to down. Who knows.. what do others think? I never considered that 2+2 theory. Intersting though..

I find this topic fascinating. There appears to be no clear and established value for 240's as they seem to be caught between a wider community opinion as a classic car vs "just another Datsun". You can buy a rustbucket relatively cheaply (compared to other classics), yet excellent examples are approaching top MGB price. On the reverse, there seems to be no upside for 2+2's. My brother's 2+2 would read similarly to the adverts highlighted.. full history, 100k's, all original etc yet was only 3k or so. If you were to use your head, is the difference really worth $15,000? Probably not, the heart says differently though. What are other people's thoughts regarding future values of these cars, ie all first gen : 240,260, 2+2 etc?

Moyest, I saw your car on the weekend.. nice. Love to check out the webers some time. Should have mine on the Coast soon..it's being sprayed today!!

I have nothing to do with the seller....but that's a bloody nice car!!!! http://www.nispares.com.au/

I've always wondered, since 180sx's have 114.3 spacing, do the wheels fit properly on a 240??

I'd be walking the other way. The tip with these old cars is to buy the BEST car you car for your money as the repairs really start to add up. He's got some motors there but seeing as you can get these from pick-a-part for next to nothing it doesn't really add a heap of value to the purchase price. The tip with these cars is to go for the best body/interior you can. The rest is all (fairly) easy + cheap in comparison. Have a look in my photo album at the 2+2 my brother bought for similar money. True, it's an auto - but the bodywork is immaculate and the box can be changed for far less than rust repairs and a respray... good luck looking for one! Thought about trying the Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club seeing as you are in Melbourne?

I'm looking for: - 260 Badges (2+2, Datsun and 260z) - The lid for the centre console (if in good nick) - Rear trims that sit next to rear seat (if black) - Strut caps have you got any of these??

I've always wondered if there is enough room between the accelerator and the kick panel to get a speaker in.. it's easy for the americans because the clutch is a mile from the side of the car - but the accelerator seems so close. Has anyone here actually done it? Any photos? What speaker did you use??

If you want a sub-box another CHEAP stealth way is to get a crappy old fruit box - sticky tape up the top and cut the bottom out. When you park the car anywhere dodgy just chuck the box over the top over the sub.. then it just looks like you have a box of junk in the boot..

Hi All, Been away for a while so I've missed this thread..I've enjoyed reading it though!! Sorry to get back to the original thread but.. ..a few things of interesting note. The MX5 is a sportscar designed by the Japanese and they freely admit that it was designed for the US market. As a result the handbrake is on the LHS in a RHD Aussie car. As the thing is so small it really doesn't matter but one could also ask why they didn't move it over either..cost I guess. I believe 240's in OZ never came with a rear sway bar but had the mounts there so you can retrofit a 260 one (apparently). As another aside, the Aussies copied a car from the US (don't know which one) when they made one of the early Aussie produced cars.. I think it may have been the FJ Holden. In the first batch to be released they had copied it so exactly that they had the door lock on the LHS.... to cover their butts they said it was a "safety measure" that protected the driver from being hit by another car when they were locking the drivers door...seems that not all "handedness" is quite so easy to follow!!

Looking for a dizzy for my 240. Anyone in Australia got one for sale?

I found Rare Spares to be slighty cheaper - even more so if you are an NDSOC member (members get discount). A few of the rubbers they don't have and you'll have to get 'em from that z place in Sydney.

Can anyone tell me the part no's for 240z centre consoles please?? I can't read it on carfiche... http://carfiche.com/s30/6/i03.gif Cheers!

The hump in the bonnet is a lot higher. Maybe they decided not to do that for aerodynamic reasons, or does it just make it difficult to see out of the windscreen?? Still, it looks better than that "customised" zed that someone posted a few months ago with the two fellas names on the back..

Im ignorant.. is it the engine builder that is great, or the yellow car (or both)??? I'd like to know as I'm looking at doing a motor too... Just for interest's sake there was a dyno day for the NDSOC here in Melb the other day. Using a guesstimate formula of multiplying the RWHP x 1.3 they came up with 500HP at the flywheel for a 240 with a GTR motor in it. Now that would be fun... the whole issue then is chassis dynamics and traction!! I can post the figures of other cars if people are interested, i.e. L28's w &w/o webers, triple SU's etc etc.. I guess the issue highlighted above is that anyone with patience, half a clue and the manual can build a motor. What you pay for is the bonus of added power, longevity and the motor's ability to sustain a good thrashing..oh..and maybe a warranty (if that's important to you). Gareth

Alan, Totally off topic, but.. As you know many of the plastic interior bits here in Oz are getting harder and harder to find due to sun damage (and the stupid location of the choke lever - but that's another whinge) - seeing as the UK really doesn't get the same problems (i.e. you have rust, we have sun damage), are good condition interior parts like consoles and dashes readily available? I know there were never many zeds imported to the UK, however maybe many made it to the breakers yards due to rust before the trim "went". The reason I ask is that I still have family there and maybe it would be cheaper for them to send me the trim bits I need rather than chase up relative rarities here.. maybe the same could be said of parts here that may be hard to get in the UK... dunno, just a thought.

His advertisment was on www.ozdat.com : Nissan Option 1 gearbox Reluctant sale of genuine ex-works Option 1 L-series gearbox with slip yoke (not flange). Has been sitting in car in garage for last 8 years. Contact Cam on 0427 577 702 Price: POA Location: Melbourne Contact: Cam Jay Phone: 0427 577 702 (hours: All reasonable hours) Like I said this ad was a while ago so the box is now sold. The prefix for Melbourne from the UK is +613 & if you want me to go and look at anything, myself or someone here should be able to help as I am in the North of Victoria, whereas Gav is further South. Can you tell the technically inept (i.e me) what a slip yoke is as opposed to a flange??

...and the concourse fellas have just wet themselves.

Just talked to a guy that sold a genuine ex-works Option1 box. $3,500 ouch!!

I don't think it's complicated if I read you right.. basically 1st sits next to 3rd at the bottom of the pattern, so it goes.. 2 4 _|_| | | | 1 3 5 instead of.. 1 3 5 |_|_| | | 2 4 Bugger. That means mine is just a boring old 260 box then. Still worth changing over to Warners?

Have emailed you..

I was under the impression that all early 260 boxes were option 1 boxes here in Australia.. true?? Alan, I thought that the Warner synchros would actually make things faster? By the way, have you ever thought of making a list of Z books that people could collect? No doubt you have a large collection and the reference would be invaluable, especially if you were to comment on how good each book was... there might even be a few gaps people around the site could fill...

I have an option 1 box in my 240 which I am pretty sure has the Porsche type sychros in it. The synchros are stuffed and I have the option to replace with new Porsche synchros, or to butcher a 280 box (with the Warner synchros in it) to use parts from that to make a "better" box, i.e. with the option 1 ratios but with the better, Warner type synchros. My questions are, will the option 1+280 box be better than the standard option 1 box?? Will that difference be significant? I want to modify my motor soon to produce a bit more power, so will the "frankenstein" box be stronger??? Apparently all the race guys use this " option 1 + 280 box" setup, is this right??? HELP!!!!

I just replaced mine. The factory-formed walking-stick shaped hose wasn't available in Australia so I got a piece of copper tubing in a slightly smaller gauge than the fuel hose and waited outside a plumbers merchants. After a couple of minutes a plumber turned up in his van so I got him to bend the copper tubing into the bend (a U-shape). I then got a couple of pieces of the right gauge fuel hose, connecting it (via jubilee clips) to the ends of the copper pipe. It works fine and I haven't noticed any problems with it, I can also fill my tank right up with no problems. I had to drop the fuel tank to do it, but it really is an easy job and doesn't take that long. I did have to go to a specialist "hose" shop to get the fuel hose though..