Mudge

Which is why I only needed the bottom peice and/or driveshaft, yet they are different lengths and diameters. I have a standard distributor to use, I am not running the turbo ECU, wiring, or distributor itself. Or of course the aforementioned oil pump driveshaft which I was trying to avoid before

Anyone have one? I have an F54 turbo block (1982) and I'm trying to get it running NA (head is shaved). I have a 77 280Z distributor and an 82 turbo distributor and was hoping to get clever with the base peices, however the distributor drive shafts are different diameters so that plan is out the window without serious grinding/cutting. Alternative would be a 280ZX NA distributor which seem hard to find for under a million bucks.

If you need it, shoot me an email. I am in 94080 (bay area, CA)

1960s pimp mobile.

F54 either has flat tops and is injected, or will be dished and turbo (and injected), the F54 is just the block, it does not state engine configuration. I would not advize a carburated turbo.

Thats exactly what is great about those cars, serious stick to the pavement handling. Long, low and WIDE is how I like them.

Have a turbo engine in the car now, so I no longer need these. I have a variety of $70 or so worth of jets to go with them, I can specify if needed, jets are pretty new so numbers are very easy to read on the sides. Manifold adapters are included, as well as 2 adjustable links for the carbs. I have the air cleaners as well, they are fairly clean, but some nuts/bolts are missing (bought the car like that) and I never got around to a hardware store to replace. They hold down fine with the hardware that is there, but for the picky some new hardware would pretty them up a bit, and some chrome polish should clean up the air cleaner assembly a bit. I am in 94080 http://maps.lycos.com or I can ship them for probably about $14, email me if interested or I can provide a # if you have more questions.

Rebuilding to me is basically all new parts, overhall would be prefered to me if the bores check out, new rings/bearings/seals yada yada and thats it. Bores should be checked and then cleaned up with a glaze breaker so the rings will seat, its a budget rebuild basically and on most engines should be fine.

Resonation is a sound thing, I think you mean regulator. The voltage should raise when you raise the RPMs past a certain point, probably around 1000-1500 or so is good enough to test. Is your battery dying on you after driving with lights on or ? What are the symptoms you have that you are troubleshooting the alternator in other words.

Their spelling drives me nuts, the wheels look kind of nice though.

Actually the early US 5 speed should match the 240Z 5 speed, I believe this is correct according to the Haynes I have, this would be a .864 5th gear. I would personally shoot for a 15-17" wheel and no more, I have 15x7" and they are pretty nice overall, but would eventually like a 16x8-10" or possibly a 17x10" if I could get one at a reasonable price point (insert laughter here). Take into consideration going this big requires fender flares and coil overs, not exactly cheap, but for road racing I want the ultimate in grip. Right now with 195/60 15" I dont have nearly enough tire to hold the brakes, otherwise the car handles very very nice.

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

www.ccwheel.com/ Wheel sets are around $1600 or so, I wouldn't bother with 7" skinnies, try to find something more readily available and cheaper. You can get 7-8" wide Centerlines for around $400.

No offense dude, but you are absolutely positively talking out of your arse. Mesh styled wheels are almost always going to end up stronger, and lighter than other designs. Ricer wheels? I think not, forged and very lightweight for thier strength, and at a good price. Ricer wheels are overweight, totally different offset, and you wont find any that wide either. These are road race wheels and are highly regarded by Porsche owners just as much as us 240Z ricers. Maybe all you do is cruise around in your car and you dont like racing, thats fine, in the meanwhile let us enjoy being fast.

CCW, Complete Custom Wheels. Awesome car, if you dont like it you dont like road racing cars - too bad

I bought a fan for a Saturn, you can buy a wiring kit for $20-$50 depending on what options you want. You can get a junkyard fan for $5-$20.

The only Subaru LSDs that I know of are R160, ask the seller.

When you look at boosted motors, the piston is almost always different. This is not just about compression, or heads, but also about ringland strength. There are boosted 240 engines out there also, again they end up breaking ring lands with power, if you hit detonation it should be instantaneous or near instant death for the engine, the turbo engine would have a little more leeway but detonating on cast pistons is not advised at all. Ripping off the entire top end and manifolds, and then wiring for the turbo car versus just dropping the engine in and then fixing the wiring, makes just swapping engines look easier. I just did the swap over the weekend in my 240 and removing/reinstalling these engines took a day. Doing the whole top end removal and reassembly could be done in a day, but why all that hassle? Find a complete car and gut it. I got my 280ZXT car for $150 with 70k miles on the clock.

There is a group purchase for a clutch pack unit, $500 instead of $750 or so. Or there is a Quife option for about $1200, which I'll be getting, worm gears instead of clutch pack. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19244

I sure thought it was a 13-13.5 but I guess I am incorrect(?) Just keep in mind gas gauges are almost never accurate, usually this is because of the float device and the shape of the gas tank, modern cars are often the same way depending. My 94 Camaro for instance, same thing, 1/2 tank on the gauge is really 1/3 tank. I have to burn 5 gallons after filling it (not topping it off, just full) for it to say 4/4 FULL. For my 73 240Z it is probably similar, when it gets down to 1/2 tank the tank empties FAST thereafter. So I assume it is around 1/3 or so. Either way, to get an accurate number you should fill it, so that you can fill it the second time around, but you should be pretty close so long as you dont get sloppy with the math, break out a calculator if needed

Those accessories MUST add up, that probably includes crating also? My info says a 5 speed is 70-80 pounds, and I can tell you that the F54 2.8L shortblock is 228 pounds, I carried it up 4 flights of stairs myself. It feels like alot more though, mostly because its cumbersome.

Powerband, not shift points! Depending on how fast I'm accelerating, I shift from 2000-4000, if I'm on the track I shift from 5000-6000 depending (road track, not drag). I also skip gears ALOT, but I have a 3.90 rear, I do 1-3-5, or 1-3-4-5, or 1-2-4, yada yada, sometimes even 1-4-5. Straight 6/8 engines are usually considered torquey low revvers (for the old days), because long cranks dont typically like to be wound out (even the Viper has a low peak HP RPM). However with 168 cubes for the 2.8L we dont exactly have a tow truck I have so much friggin rear gear, that I am shifting to 4th by 28-35 MPH and that is not at a low RPM either, that is one big reason why I skip shift alot. I can take off from second without hardly slipping the clutch at all. I can't wait to put in a 3.36 or 3.54, the 3.90 is ridiculous without it being a full on race car, or at LEAST a later model 5 speed. As for the electric fan, just make sure you do the wiring yourself if you want to save money. MSA sells a kit for a very high price, I bought a Saturn fan for not even $30 (you could find a fan for $5 if you wanted) and then buy a relay/temperature sensor that you like at Jegs.com or Summitracing.com from $20-$50 depending what you want.

ATF is a 10 weight oil with HIGH detergent properties, diesels run oil in thier gas as was mentioned, we dont It has been used to clean engine internals (like Marvels Mystery Oil), as well as some other things like Kerosene. Often though these are for hydraulic lifter cars when the lifters 'stick' from low oil or etc, there should be enough detergent in most modern oils that it shouldn't be needed. I sometimes run a bit now and again, some people are for it, some against it.

13 or 13.5 gallons. Do not let it run down and leave you stranded before you calculate MPG. Go fill up the car (dont top it off, just let the pump shot off normally). Drive it around until you get to the 1/2 tank marker if not 1/3 or so, and then fill it again. However much you put in (7 gallons or whatever), versus how many miles you went is how you calculate. 7 gallons and 140 miles would be 20MPG. I have noticed that on my 73, the gas gauge does not read linearly, many cars are like this. You will have to get used to what the gauge means, but generally once you calculate your average MPG you should know by # of miles how much gas is gone and how much you have left about. When I hit the 1/2 way point on my gauge, it starts going down fast, so it is obviously not reading linearly.

Blue smoke would be oil, wether blow by or stem seals etc, there are ways to test for this of course. The water thing was explained above, for every gallon of gas you burn a healthy cat will turn out 1 gallon of water. There are 3 and 4 way CATs though and I dont know if it varies between the two.