Mudge

I haven't heard anything good yet, from weakening of the unit within a couple weeks, to many shiny and non-shiny chunks in the rear end. I think it falls into the "too good to be true" category, its a shame that ATB type LSDs cost so friggin much for our cars, they are only a few hundred bucks for many other cars.

If you raise the car you will actually lose negative camber. Good luck on the sale

I know the DGV carbs a bit as I have them on my car, I am getting 20-22 MPG average, freeway is 3400-3800 RPM for me I work in San Francisco so I dont touch alot of freeway miles either, overall though I wish I had round tops, but my car is a 73. I have an early 5 speed and I believe a 3.90 (its an R200). With what my RPM and tires are, everything points to a 3.90, 3.54 with the Turbo is going in "soon." Just to give you an idea on what to expect when you rejet the DGVs, I spent about $75 experimenting on jets. If I had a choice I'd go with round tops, you should be able to score a set around $100, in 73/74 these cars came with less performance oriented SUs. They can be worked over for bigger HP setups, there is a Rebello guy running 287 crank HP on pump gas with big bore SUs.

That is HUGE, but do we know how it is jetted? Alot of people who 4-barrel the L6 run a 390cfm setup.

Dont expect to gun it at 1500 RPM and have it fly, unless you are in first or second gear. If you had a V8 or V10 built for torque that would be different, small engines are built for higher powerbands.

You should have a 13 gallon tank, fill it up and watch your mileage the next time you fill it up. If you went 200 miles and you used 10 gallons to refill the tank, you got 20 MPG.

Lots of possibilities, bad AFM etc, a fuel injected car should turn 25+ MPG.

Is this for a track car or a daily driver? Either way, look at what the tire MFG specs out for the tire you want. My current setup uses the smallest tire for a certain wheel size, a 195/60 on a 15x7" wheel, that is bead to bead not lip to lip. I am going to step up to 205/50s, but on a street car where you dont care about handling as much a 225 would work fine on a 7" wheel. As for a 6.5" I wouldn't put a 225 on there, but you could.

I like speed bleeders, but some people find that they leak and need bleeding more often. The rubber over your brake bleeder prevents air in the lines in no way at all, there is much too high pressure for it to do a job like that. It is there to keep dirt and crap out of there, otherwise bleeding could be impossible as some dirt/sediment/water/fluids in there can become like a 'cement.' Buy some fresh bleeders or speed bleeders if you will. I also like steel lines on the car, but some people may prefer soft brakes For the 240Z they are dirt cheap, about $59 I believe.

All too often in the aftermarket, they dont really advertise products with nice facts to back them up, seems like whatever will make someone jump and say "I need that" is what they use to describe a product. Half the time your sales rep wont know what something does either Bushings would be nice, but I think that end links actually make more difference, in other words get both! You can re-use end links on another bar set if you buy a set of aftermarket bars someday. The bushings wont be useable since they will be the wrong size. When you buy the MSA set at least for the front (I dont have a rear bar), you will get bushings for the end links and the 2 bushings for the center of the bar. Not sure how thier rear package is setup, I'm sure it says in the catalog. Cutting the center sleeve of the end link if your car is lowered, is very easy. I guess since one end of the MSA unit is rod-ended, it must be a little stiffer, but the bottom bushings are still going to die eventually, I'd rather have rod ends on both sides but it would cost a bit, quality rod ends aren't cheap - and then you have to adapt it to the bar, heck nothing is cheap race-wise is it

Ok, now that I re-read your first post, its possible that you are expecting too much. You would need a V8 with around 300# of TQ @ 1500 RPM for you to lug up a hill and not give it more gas, and this is a peaky engine compared to an early 90s TQ puller V8. 4400 RPM is where peak torque is at stock. What is your gas mileage like? If your in the mid 20s or so, your car is fine. You can also check your plugs for clues. When you drive a car with a little engine, you are going to rev it more than a V8 with cubes, that is just the facts. This is why Hondas have to rev to 8k or so to make the power that they do, they are NOT torquey engines. Check your MPG.

I was getting 15 MPG when I first got my 240Z, if your getting 90 miles on a 13 gallon tank that is 6.9MPG! If the gas isn't litterally leaking out, something is very, very, very out of tune! How do the plugs look? I felt horrible getting 15 MPG, I can hardly imagine anything worse on these tiny little engines. I am around 20-22 now, with dual DGVs and I believe a 3.90 R200 (only guessing because that is what my RPM agrees to). I do 3400-3800 on the freeway with my early 5 speed (.864 OD), but do mostly commuter driving to San Fran, which is semi stop and go.

Yep, transverse link aka control arm, the Haynes calls the rear lower control arm a transverse link. I know this only because I had to remove the whole friggin thing to change the shoes in back, rotor was frozen solid to the center hub.

Thier wording is interesting, "with two alignment holes stiffness adjustments are a snap." What stiffness do they mean I am not sure, there is zero load on the sway bar until you are turning the car (leaning), which twists the sway bar. I would be more interested if it were rod ended on both sides, but it still could be a nice peice, hmm. I'm not really sure there is much if any benefit to such a peice. Feel very free to get another opinion

If they are a solid end link I would be interested in them for the price, I will have to take a look see at the catalog. An adjustable end link is for the purpose of proper end link geometry if you lower the car. You can however cut the 'sleeve' of the end link down for proper genmetry, once you have your desired ride height set in (if this changes with you having a coil over setup, then you may want multiple, or just a flat out adjustable setup, $45 sounds good!). Without proper end link length, you will have premature bushing wear (they will mushroom outwards) and the sway bar will not be as effective as it should, although mostly its a bushing wear issue I'd say, but I suppose it depends how far things are off, as far as effecting sway bar effectiveness.

I agree, in terms of, the turbo engine will take the boost easier. With a non turbo engine the pistons wont like to see alot of boost, weaker ringlands. I got my turbo donor car for $150

I would recommend getting a Haynes or Chiltons, I got my Haynes for $9 or so off eBay. If it is the distributor, then you can try to rotate it a small amount clockwise and see if that helps, if you get pinging though then you moved too far. Move it maybe 1/16-1/8" at a time. What RPM does your car idle at? It could also be fuel related, I dont know much about the SU carbs but there is an oil level that you could check, I will not say what kind of lube they use but I have heard of people making thier own mix instead of buying it. I also have a book on Weber and SU carbs that I could give you for a few bucks if you dont want to hit the web for it, I dont need it, or just ask in the CARB forum for advice on how to check the lube level of the carbs, and what to use to lube them with. Does the power kind of surge on when it comes, or is it pretty undetectable? You could also check your fuel filter(s) to see how they look.

I dont know about the P90 setup on a 2.4L other than it has been done, how exactly I dont know, but there are turbo 2.4L cars. I have an N42 on mine currently, until the turbo engine goes in.

It could even just be valve stem seal, but if you honestly overheated it (in the red) then yeah, it could be a headgasket

I am guessing then the car has always been like this? Its not something that occured after some kind of maintenance then...

Very true, once you start modding the car you will TAKE AWAY its current feel, and I find the stock 240 to be a pretty darn neutral car. I do have cut springs however, but other than that it is essentially suspension-STOCK. We have a tendency to think its the car that needs improving but a good driver in a stock car can easily whup the pants off an inexperienced driver in a "setup" car, and every time you make a change you will be re-learning the car, unless of course your driving so slow as to not require it

Plenty difficult, because you'd need to fab up a custom exaust manifold or header to do the job. The P90/P90a is a square port head on the exaust side. Yes, amazingly these were very low compression turbo cars, 7.4:1 Even nowdays alot of them are 8.5-8.8:1 The stock turbo car was made to run on 87 octane. Your only issue would be you dont have turbo pistons, so the ringlands wont be as strong. If you can find the engine, then take the whole thing, not just the topend/computer/fuelpump/wiring etc

If you overheated you could have blown a headgasket, it will progressively get worse if this is the case. I'd check the oil if I were you, hopefully you are ok but better safe than sorry.

Zlishous, depending where your $ priorities might be, I find that even poly bushings/endlinks on stock bars is a very nice 'upgrade.' Basically they will force the bar to work a little quicker, since you wont have as much slop in the bushings, of course the hardcore guys will often go solid endlinks but that costs more dough and requires some fabrication.

Check your timing, and report back... Good luck