Mudge

Sway bars REDUCE the independance of each side of the suspension, if you see a car lifting one side of itself in a hard corner, there is some form of suspension bind and/or TOO MUCH bar. There is always a balance, it is not as easy as simply going for the biggest setup possible. If that were the case we would still be running solid axles front and rear. In my experience, AutoX guys run the big bars and smaller springs. Road race, or open road guys will run more spring and less bar (i.e. stock or mildly "upgraded" bars). You also need to pay attention to front/rear balance, your driving style, and so on.

Yep, I was advised to setup the muffler to accept a varied position for my turndown. They will measure at 2 points apperantly, and at least one is on the right, I will probaly turn it just flat down, but we'll see, maybe down/left. Since I just have the exaust manifold, and will probably not run a 3" I should hopefully be fine, plus dont expect more than maybe 6200 RPM and am not making much HP either.

Dieseling is correct, it can occur from leaky carbs and mine does it with any fuel I use. I have dual DGVs.

Ok, this is good news. I was very worried that 90db would be nearly impossible without choking the crap out of it. My open exaust 94 Camaro, 2.75" pipe and about 470HP pegged the meter at 125db, and I swore my old 69 Firebird was always louder, but maybe it was cabin resonation.

I actually run 87 octane in CA. I burn about 15 gallons a week, so I save about $3.00 a week. That is about $150 a year, not a big deal. Some people insist carb cars should run minimum on 89 or even 91.

A lawnmower is apperantly 90db http://www.howstuffworks.com/question124.htm

I have twice pipes and a stock exaust manifold on my 73 240Z, the car is definately going to be louder @ WOT (aka WFO) than 90db, but I have the chance to run Laguna next month if I can do something about it. Does anyone have a muffler idea, or should I just run another muffler in the center? If I get black flagged for sound 3x I will get booted from the track, and that would be a waste of big moola. No I do not want a disk type muffler, too many horror stories. Most other adjustable mufflers cost way too much. Since the twice pipes route RIGHT under my damn rear end, I wouldn't mind ripping the setup off the car anyway and making up my own exaust, so I may do that, if I can do it reasonably inexpensively since I'm jogging multiple project here, on a budget of course. I do have a 280ZXT car, but I dont imagine I could steal that setup as with the downpipe/turbo setup it wont be the same dimensions as a 240Z NA car I imagine. Otherwise, I bet the muffler is relatively quiet, it looks either stock or low-performance, bah. Ideas for getting down to 90db or a tad less for safety? I dont expect to see more than maybe 6k RPM tops, I dont want to nuke the engine, especially since I dont know its timingchain /oilpump life.

bump

A longer spring, if the # of active coils is also increased, will make the spring softer. I have the Hayne also but dont know the # of active coils, even though I recently cut 1.5 coils on some stockers to put on the front. doh :stupid:

The struts on the 81ZX are huge, compared to a 240 strut. The ID is not the same (not so important), but the stud distance is way off. I wonder however if the top rubber mounts are interchangable, I'm thinking no, but maybe there is a way to make that a yes. Since the car is ALOT heavier (it is when you push it!), I bet the bolts are beefed up as well, which means, wont fit.

Thats a 2+2 car? Would you let the flywheel/clutch setup go?

Look at the pass side of the block, look for something that says F54 or etc, should be a letter followed by 2 numbers. Same for the head, pass side in the center and you can find out what the head is from.

2.8L engine vs 2.4L engine is about 25 cubes, so thats a "good" thing. I dont know the SCCA rules though, and I know that they classify based on certain things, so you'd have to check the rulebook for more than stock cubes, or engine from same bodystyle car/generation use etc.

Longer runners tells me torque increase, I have the intake though and have no idea if its good for either or though.

Still have it, 175k mile F54 flat top high compression shortblock. R200 3.90 non-LSD, unknown miles but was told had Mobil1 for a good part of its life. I'm in 94080 aka South San Francisco Please email me if interested as I dont get to come here often, make me an offer, possible trades welcome.

True, cleaning up an intake runner is fine, but a rough surface to some degree is your friend. Get rid of casting flash but dont polish an intake runner, exaust yes, intake nope.

I have an F54 flat top, 175k miles, bores look good but for the cost I personally would refresh it, which was my intention, however now I plan on going turbo. $125 N42 used, $75 N42 ported, no flow numbers, so consider it a light port job. All parts included however cam towers are not assembled, nor raised, and the head was shaved a bit. Completely cleaned up so very easy to work with, without getting grimy. Trades welcome + or - cash either way, late model 5 speed, towards a turbo drivetrain/parts, or SU flat tops, or ? docmudge@hotmail.com I'm located in the San Fran area, CA

I dont believe it would do a darn thing for flow, but you would keep the valves cooler, in theory. Polished valves OR coated valves, will be used in a high heat app like turbo/blown cars.

Lets mention WHICH Kumhos, there are 280-300 treadwear Kumhos and there are 60 treadwear Kumhos. The Falkens you posted are 200. Alot of folks love the Victoracers, or a V700 which supposedly is the same compound as the Victo, but with a bit more street friendly tread. Either way they dont last forever but will beat full on Hoosiers for wear hands down. There are other less desireable race tires that likewise last very long, if on the street into the thousands of miles, Toyo Proxes R1 I think is what I'm thinking of. People hate them for stick but they last forever, some series' use them due to rules. I'm going to try a Kumho tire, I used to use Yoko AVS Intermediates (160 treadwear), but they are NLA :mad:

You can trail brake (LIGHTLY!) or let off the gas slowly, otherwise it will want to bring the rear around on you. 275 is quite a bit in a Z car, must be FAST!

Unfortunately I dont have a video setup in my own car (not even a cage yet, I just got the car a couple months ago ), but a smooth driver will make it all look easy and like hes not really pushing it. Be smooth, and ye shall find speed Speed shifting, and that kind of thing is for drag, stay relaxed. The videos are of a 1988 Porch 928, which is a V8! Sounds awesome, a very nice car, although they get heavy in the later 90s... There is an aftermarket for them building up engines (and more of course) up to 396 cubes, sounds very anti-Porch which is why the 928 is apperantly the German "Por-Vette" I may have video later because there is someone who does the stuff and puts it on DVD, but I dont know when that will be. I will say that for my own class I held my own except for a 2580 pound Cobra with 275/315 tires, and 460 HP, no contest, once I let him by he was GONE. The 240 is mostly stock, 195/60 R15" (300 treadwear tires), dual Webers that are still not tuned right, steel brake lines and Wilwood brake fluid with stock pads all around. Way too much braking bias in the rear, I couldn't stand on the brakes without sliding forward, I dont have the tire for it regardless. For those that thing stock Z brakes suck, you need to drive an American car that weighs another 1300 pounds! I also had poly on the stock front bar, I have NO rear bar, so either my car didn't get the option or else someone took it off.

This is an 88 Porch 928 that was there, honestly I had no idea they had V8s! The car sounds, badass. I was not in this run group so you wont see me getting lapped by him. Following a red C5 hatchback in Session 2 - Does a mild tankslapper in Turn 10 (13 MB): http://www.jeepvideos.com/mpeg/030125sp-redC5wiggle.mpg Following a black 930 in Session 2 - Nice save from a sideways moment in Turn 8. Scares me, but doesn't seem to affect the 930 (10 MB): http://www.jeepvideos.com/mpeg/030125sp-black930save.mpg Complete lap of Sears without traffic in Session 3(26 MB): http://www.jeepvideos.com/mpeg/030125sp-open.mpg Following the black NV 02 Z06 in Session 4 - I promised the driver I'd post video of our great run together, but my camera ran out of tape. Doh. This is all I caught (20 MB): http://www.jeepvideos.com/mpeg/030125sp-blackNV02Z06.mpg

I have heard of it done in a 510, but not easy at all and probably not worth the expense IMO. What would you really use it for, unless you ran some freaky 4.56 rear gears or something, I dont see the use without a V8 and some torque.

Wow, I'd consider an electric pump, since it doesn't rely on engine speed to run quickly.

I'm going to guess 74 is when emissions hit, because that is how the American cars were. There were smog provisions like PCV and stuff, but 74 is when performance started sliding, and also the I believe 5mph front bumper law (or was it 2.5mph).