Mudge

I dont know the hose diameters used, and this is where HybridZ comes in handy, but there is a 4.3L mini van radiator, all aluminum, that I will probably use. HOWEVER, even 25 minute road course sessions, I didn't see heat a problem AT ALL, the temp hardly picked up any over normal driving, amazing. I use about 90% straight distilled water.

Heh, and name a single American car company using CNC internals? Is that the ocean I hear? Cast internals are still abound.

Yep, and this is yet another reason going overly wide is a waste, contact patch will be dissapointing versus a tire that actually "fits."

The yellow Cobra that did NOT belong in the group Once I let him by, he pretty much turned on the jets and said adios!

In terms of MARKET value this person is obviously hoping for way, way too much. I've seen VERY nice cars that dont sell very fast at 4k.

http://www.dleong.org/2003/tt/ncrc1/ncrc1.htm Only in one pic, there was another, nicer looking 240Z there but in probably the same group as the photographer. This is the primered demon that I picked up not long ago (2 months), I'm in pic #13. I'll post more pix/video as I can get a hold of em. One car that I could not keep up with was a yellow/white striped Cobra replicar, that guy was fast!

Since in default form they have enough fuel for 3.2L I dont know how they dont have enough headroom if jetted properly, to support the power, but then again I dont have a hot F54 either to know for sure. Looking at the jets available though, I dont see how they wont work, guess I may find out eventually.

I have these carbs, and they need to be rejetted on the idle side. I just RECENTLY figured out a 15 MPG issue with these carbs, as for now I'm happy with them however on my 73 and will probably continue to use them with my F54 NA buildup. There is a bit of a learning curve if your not a carb guy, since not alot of people seem to use them anymore, AND those that have didn't figure out the MPG issue and just got rid of them it seems. Default idle jets on mine were 50/50 although for the Ford 1.6L (1 carb) they are listed as 55/50, I'm currently 75/60 but will try 75/70 and see if that changes things. If you do the "upgrade" and get stuck, let me know and I can help figure out MPG issues, OR Pierce Manifolds was very helpfull, I spoke with a young guy Doug and he explained why my MPG was so poor. I thought I was pig rich and I was lean at idle, and overcompensating with my idle screw, which caused richness off idle, doh! I dont yet know MPG because I just got these jets on thursday, but I'm in the 20 something area, I have heard of 24-28 with these carbs on I believe a 2.8L setup.

They may "fit" but they dont belong on a 7" wheel, 195-225 is the widest I'd go. Use an 8" wheel for a 245. If you look at how Porch GT cars do things, as well as other road raced car setups, dont be supprised to find 275s on an 11" wheel. If you drive a pickup truck with 80 profile tires, then you can be a bit more abusive, but on a low profile tire dont go wider than recommended.

The 112s are nice, but no info on them (no link). Do they only go up to 7" wide?

.550 lift and milder than stock springs? Hmm... Sounds like a monster cam, is that thing streetable? What rear gears are you using? I've seen your dyno sheet on HybridZ

I'd rather do that than spend a bundle raising the cam tower, thats all.

Zsled, that price is due to expensive machine work, constantly trying to eek the most out of it by lowest friction/lowest leakdown possible since they have to run a certain cam. It would make the series MUCH cheaper if they followed the rules like some budget series', be within a certain HP and TQ range at approximately stock points in the curve, and voila. The Camaro Mustang Challenge runs this way, if you go over you have pretty hefty weight penalties, and you can't go over that much. Those that are slightly over might have an advantage on tracks with long straights, and vice versa. This way most of the expense is the racing itself and occasional parts replacement, 5k to dump on a somewhat stock engine but being forced to max it out with with machine work to be competitive sounds a little dissheartening. I just think things could be done a different way. I'm going to do a budget rebuild, refresh with rings/bearings, top end work, better pan or hack up the stocker myself, new oil pump, fresh seals obviously, so the rebuild itself will be well under a grand, and the rest goes into making horsepower!

Supposedly the Webers want to see 2.5-3.0 psi, I have dual DGVs. Are you on a 2.4L? Do you mind sharing your jetting setup? Myself and some others are trying to sort out the issue, since 2 DGVs is enough for a 3.2L engine in stock form (1.6L Ford x 2).

With a turbo your probably going to want a 3.54 or something similar, so you are in the gear long enough to build boost. I have an early 5 speed, and it feels like you shift into 4th twice with the .864, bleh.

Mike, it was of course with the purpose of getting some of the slack out of the chain, not for keeping an old chain.

Low friction setup basically, and lack of leakdown yada yada, all machine work. I think they are ~$5k I'm looking to pull 250-275 in a streetable F54 flattop setup, with N42. I want to believe it can be done, I know a local guy who has a friend with a Robello 3.0 doing 287 crank HP, not alot of people believe it. There is a Robello employee with a 280ish HP daily driver (one of the head porters), so again I want to believe that its possible but I'll see what I can get out of the head, and select one of 2-3 cams that I'm considering. Not sure yet on single or dual pattern.

Toyota 4x4 has some R180 stuff, and of course the 4 pot calipers Strokers get PRICEY, so for the 17 extra cubes, I wont be going that route.

I have an N42 on my 2.4L with an N33 intake, it has 3.2L worth of fuel running into it though but still pulls a 15.8 quarter (not me driving it).

Why are people just not removing a link or two from the side without the "bright" marks on the chain?

Thanks for the post Alan! The article I read was some years ago, from an American SCCA racer, as for the accurateness who knows. He basically said he was put off at every attempt to get any kind of support, or help from Nissan until maybe 72 or 73 I think he said. I unfortunately found out that my R200 that I was told was LSD, is not. It is a 3.90 open diff, I only payed $150 for the rear, rubber mount and driveshaft so I'm not really PO'd, just dissapointed. Shucks clutchdust, there is at least one site entailing the C4 IRS swap, and its not exactly plug and play, but it can be done. You dont just want the center section though, so you would probably be much better off buying the whole assembly if you can find it, and I haven't seen them for under $600 but maybe they are dropping now. That would be great to run, stronger yet lighter. Another issue is it will put you with 4 lug rear wheels, which means the fronts wont look quite right, but oh well. http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm

You can open this file with Internet Explorer (after you unzip it), I forget where it came from on the net. Some people weld the diff for a locker style setup, but as a road kinda guy thats not my flavor, and I dont really know what it entails. rear end swaps for 240z\'s.zip

Difficulty depends on several factors, I'm in the middle of an R200 LSD swap and ran into a few hiccups, just finding the parts to complete the setup can be a bear in itself. R160 LSD from a Subaru supposedly plugs right in, with only the diff being used, if you have a 71 or earlier though the 72+ housing location is different, I dont know if the front Xmember is different but the moustache and transverse link I belive are both shaped differently (boy I use that word alot) to locate the rear a tad further back to get rid of a wear problem that they apperantly didn't catch earlier. If you want to put power down though the R160 may not be the way to go. R200 can be found in 3.70 LSD ratio, but I hear all too often "I saw the car arrive that day, so I went back the next day with my tools to get it and it was gone"... There is also a Quaiffe unit, guess how much they go for, $1200-$1600 from what I've seen, thats enough to buy an aftermarket beefed up 12bolt or 9" for a heavy american car, not just a limited slip unit, ouch. There is also the R230 which requires an adapter for the CV joints, otherwise mostly plug in, other than grinding needing to be done in the finned rear cover, I believe that covers that one. Those are found on the Inifinity Q45 and not sure what else. Then there is the C4 Vette rear end, which would be nice, usually $600-$800 but come with kind of a crappy gear ratio, gear swaps are a pain I hear and $$$ if you pay a shop ($500ish), plus cost of the gears and whatever else is needed tool wise that you dont already have. Yes it is a bit supprising, but with such little power I guess they felt like it was ok. BTW, it is generally aknowleged that Japan didn't think Americans gave a flying hoot about a sports car anyway, so we didn't get the FIA stuff like Europe and Japan did, and the racers in the states had a bear of a time gettin any support from Nissan for a long time (so I've read), because they just thought we were ignorant fat slobs and didn't care about real racing, plus many within Nissan didn't care about racing, and only had a few real supporters from within.

300ZX or ZXT fronts work I *think* I would be wary of using struts from a light weight car, since you guys are going to be using heavy springs with them, without revalving them you'd just kill the struts. No sense in saving $50-$75 per pair and getting Tokico IMO. For the real deal though, find what works in a Koni strut and get them valved for thier purpose. Bilsteins can be revalved too if there are any out there that can be used, alot of shops that made them adjustable though are dead.

Bronze valve guides are good, seats however not so much so. Generally you dont want the same types of metal in friction contact with each other, so I'm not sure how steel/steel will hold up under such friction/heat...?