Mudge

When the carb is cold, fuel doesn't want to atomize, so the choke makes the carb run richer to help make up for that. Mine most definately wont start without the choke, unless I stick my foot in it to get it doing 1500-2000 RPM, and even then without the choke it would probably take me several restarts to get it running constantly.

I can't see/find an emblem?

If you run Windows, see this thread: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292 The calculator will help you with what you need to know.

Yep, $100 is not unreasonable at all, quality rod ends are $ I think they are a great mod, I dont have one for the Z yet but have it for the Camaro, definately a nice addon, especially if you stiffen up the suspension, these will help allow it to do its job instead of just flexing the body.

I dont really dig the Vette style tail lights either, if the vents aren't functional in the fenders then they are a waste. Otherwise it looks great, like a Porch

Someone else suggested a possible worn linkage, allowing leakage. I wouldn't doubt these could use a freshening up though, so I will probably tear them down hopefully this weekend and find out whats going on, as far as even what jets etc it has (I'd assume whatever it came off of donor wise, a 260Z perhaps?).

EScanlon, makes sense, GM cars were the same way until the 70s.

Royce, I am checking with local folks on a list I'm on, and am trying to find out if there is some stuff in San Jose, which is only 45ish miles south of me. Sac is pretty close, I head up there once in awhile. I just need to get off my lazy behind and go down to one sometime and look...

Here is a bit of info on the various generations: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2824/engine.html

I don't know if its true, but http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2824/engine.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/head.html claims that (F54 block) P79 head equipped engines during 81-83 got flat tops ONLY of the L28 series. Eric, sent you a PM Thanks!

Basically you can look at the breakdown for the VIN for color options and the normal stuff, the rest is going to be standard info out there on most Z fan sites in regards to engine operation, gear ratios available and etc

Eric, how much are these going for? I'm not too too far... Do you happen to know yet if they are flat top or dished?

I assume you mean dealer options and such?

Good points, and thanks for the info! I'll see what I can digup...

Another 1/4 turn rich helped greatly, but still idle RPM is not always consistent from one stop to the next, occasionally it wants to die, other times a nice "1k RPM" idle (according to the tach). I'll check Napa for a color-tune.

Here is something interesting, I am going to assume its maybe vacuum leak related, but here goes. Basically either the car will idle so low it wants to die (especially when coming to a stop), or if just a minor twich of the choke and it goes from ~500RPM idle to nearly 1200-1500 RPM idle. If I give it a small tap on the gas at the light when its idling low, it will hang around the 1500 RPM mark once again, and if/when it drops its usually pretty slow. Power is pretty good on the street, but I am still suspicious of vacuum leak or maybe incorrect jetting. These are dual Weber downdrafts (32/36), and am assuming the jets are unchanged from the donor setup but am not positive. Now, here is further mystery for me, a non carb person and new to Z land (Haynes manual on the way), the air filters have a barbed plastic connector at the bottom, as if a line goes to them for some purpose, wether EGR or what I am not sure, but they are unhooked at the moment so basically letting in a small amount of unfiltered air. I can snap a pic if this helps, but would you assume this is for EGR and should be plugged up? Or is this for something else that I'm not finding in the harness? 73 240Z, P30 engine (verified on block), idle screws are backed out about 2 1/4 turns

Here is a little bit of stuff http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_weber_tuning.html http://www.triumphspitfire.com/jets.html http://www.racetep.com/weberadj.html Some people have a preference, but overall for most street cars it sounds like there are only minor variances in how one is different than another.

8º difference is definately a difference, but I'd have to input all the data into Engine Analyzler or Desktop Dyno in order to really see the difference, because the lobe may not be as aggressive. I myself probably wouldn't do the swap, but on a budget it might be a nice modest boost in power. Most aftermarket cams vary from one model to the next by 10º. More duration means the valve is open longer, allowing more bleed off at low RPM (which is bad, this means power loss to some extent) but more top end power since there is more time to fill the cylinders. I guess I FINALLY have something to put into these programs now to simulate the engine, although no headflow specs means I'm going to have to end up guessing, but its a start Anyone have headflow specs etc?

That may be a misnomer, since that was the beginning of the smog era, a larger engine doesn't always have a larger cam, but who knows. Doesn't any manual out there list specs? I think it would be a major PITA since you'd have to have new rocker arms regardless, so why not get something even better if your going to all the trouble...

Rocye, which shop is that, and do they offer WBO2? I know of about 2 or maybe 3 in the Sac area, but used a place in San Jose last time, for $100 an hour.

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/0/6/36704706.htm Not smog exempt yet, but pretty, not that I like purple though really.

A write-up on that might be nice, because I plan to RR a 240Z (when I can find one...), and that would be mucho suppriso, in a bad way!

The car looks sharp, I'd rather have a spoiler with air duct holes ready to go (for brakes), but you could always hack that together later, if you plan to road race the car

Vettes rock, heavier though and parts $$$$, otherwise I considered a C5 several times, plus they will come down in price when the C6 hits. C4 is nice too, and early C3s (the Mako, the Stingray). Turbos are new, blowers are old news, there are some advantages to either one I suppose but no intercooler, and lower quality gas nowdays, ick. Especially for road racer types, way way too much heat, not an attractive solution I agree on the Turbos giving nearly free HP, thats why we have guys putting out 4 and 5 HP per cube on "street cars" now, and yes blowers suck about 1200 HP on Hemi dragsters or some ungodly number, gas sucker extroidinaire.

Might want to??? I sure hope he already changed the oil! Good luck on the project, I'm soon going to be in the same boat