DavidB

Had a similar problem: Rt rear signal not working. Used your comments and photo, removed turn signal assembly, cleaned the contacts, and rebent the tabs..works great. Thanks for help!

I have a 1971 similar to yours. It was bought by my father new. Has a lot more miles but it's in very good condition..garaged. New paint in 1986, but will need another paint job soon. A few rust spots around rear wheel wells. Interior is nearly perfect. New AC. I have it insured for $8500, with Hagerty(I highly recommend this type of insurance(saved about $400 annually compared to Nationwide). I am thinking of raising the value to $9500-$10,500. I woudn't sell it for a lot more though.

Thanks for all the advice, but I decided to keep m' 71 with stock brakes. Put new a new MC, replaced a leaking rear wheel cylinder, replaced the front cailpers and pads, and I got brakes! Not great brakes but good enough for my weekend driving needs.

I was researching the MSA/or Toyota 4-caliper conversion for my 71' 240 and called MSA and inquired about any required modifications etc. I was especially interested in whether you needed to cut the dust shield, and if wheel spaacres are needed. My car has 14" Western Turbine style wheels.(I think 6.5" wide rims). Tires are 70 series, and are 185s. The MSA rep told me that their tech person said that their 4-calipers would not work with 14" rims. Has anyone done a 4-caliper conversion with 14" rims?

Thanks for all of the advice. I replaced the rear brake pads yesterday, as one side was worn...and alos discovered a leaking rt rear brake cylinder. Planning to re-bleed everything today. How much play should occur in the brake pedal before feeling pressure? Mine goes +- 1 inch and then is very stiff..yet little braking.

The car has always weak brakes. The Booster appears to be working. Just replaced MC and booster hoses and check valve, new fluid and bled lines. Still poor braking. A mechanic who has lots of experience with 240's is urging me to replace the stock front 2-piston calipers with 4-piston. He says they will most likely dramatically improve braking on the car. Has anyone used the Motorsports 4-piston brake upgrade kit(about $400)? Another option I'm considering would be to go in an completely rebuild both of the stock front disc brakes(new calipers pads etc), but the same machanic feels that would be waste of money, saying they are working fine. My dad bought this car new, and the brakes have always been an issue. In a recent emergency stop going down a slight hill, I stomped the brakes hard and then rear brakes locked up, but the fronts did not.

HLS 3039468 Mfg 7-71 Red, original, except wheels. My dad bought it new..I was with him when he picked it up from the dealer

I e-mailed Koning about the availability of the Rewind wheels, and they responded that the Rewind is still in production and available. Please also note that in comparsion to the Panasport, they are much lighter. The Panosport is listed at 20lbs, while the Koning is 14.5lbs, which is a big difference, since unsprung wheel weight is critically important to handling...and I do not understand why it's not more of a concern for people.

I went to Discount Tire, which is a chain, and they can order the Koning Rewind for -+$70/wheel, installed, with all hardware, center caps etc.

What is the expected life of a 71' 240 timing chain? I have about 140,000 miles on the engine. Any other comments on this.

Can anyone recommend a body repair shop, or whatever, in the Charlotte NC area, that is familar with 240 z restorations

Thanks Kmack for the great info. on the smog pump. Assuming that I can get the smog pump unstuckand I install another belt I have another related question about the "T" valve connection that runs from the smog pump to engine. Currently it is plugged, and the "T" has been removed. I am assuming that I should replace it, and the smog pump will essentially be "running", but with no air flow. To Axrph, because of the car's age, it is my understanding that the the factory equipment must simply be "in place", and that they do not test the emissions.

After acquiring a '71 240 last month, I just took it to in for a North Carolina inspection..it failed. The smog pump is not hooked up(no belt), and the pump cannot be turned by hand, so I guess its fried. Many comments here suggest the pump's removal, to boost power, but how do you suggest getting around the state inspections without the pump in working condition.