Fire604

I just had my tank media blasted, boiled, and sealed. While doing so I delivered a Competition Engineering sump to be installed as a part of my fuel system upgrade. When I got it back, instead of drilling out three - five holes in the floor of the tank and welding in the sump, they cut out the bottom of the tank the size of the while sump. As a result the sump is now not baffled. I don't like it and am not happy with it but the vendor basically said, "Too bad unless you want to pay us to fix it." I took my tank and left. I have a real concern about the sump not being baffled properly and in low fuel situations allowing for fuel starvation. Am I right to be concerned or am I worrying about nothing?

I wish I knew this about 2 months ago... I'm currently replumbing my whole fuel system and selected/installed an Aeromotive adjustable FPR. I haven't fired it up yet but I will keep this in mind when I do.

My leathers are installed. My upholstery guy asked what I paid for them (~$375 +/-) and he said that he couldn't even source the leather for that amount let alone produce a completed set for that. He rated the leather a 6.5 out of 10 noting it was a bit thin for automotive use. He was impressed that even the piping was leather wrapped but had to remove "the tail section" of the seat backs and stitch in more substantial material. This was the part that the hog rings secure to and he felt that it was a bit too thin / weak to be durable over the long haul and was not quite long enough. All in all it was a good product for a good price. Still working on photos....

I got my black leathers in today. I had the "old school" Z logo embroidered on the headrests; it looks OK - they could have used more stitches per inch though. They're at my upholstery guy's now and should be done by the end of the week. I'll post pics when I get them back. Overall I am happy with the product I'm anxious to see the fit quality.

I purchased them, the leather ones, and they are due in any day now. I ordered them in black leather, silver top stiching, and the old style Z logo on the headrests. I'm taking them with new foam from MSA to a local shop to have them installed. It may be a few weeks but I'll try to get some photos of the end result up.

I stand corrected.

Well, I'm not sure I'd say 3 or 4 times that - that's crazy high. I know you can buy the set of 6 from MSA for $370. If you got them for free or next to nothing, $200 is a great deal but he's not getting robbed.

If it's like my '78, the wire comes through the firewall on the driver's side near the brake booster. The tach wire goes to the NEG side of the coil. Good luck, neighbor.

There are many aftermarket sound suppression / heat shields available. I've never been a fan because I want the heat out from under the hood and feel like anything applied to the hood would serve to contain it.

I know it's picky but I have the same issue. My HL switch is just fine but the TS switch sucks. I had it cleaned and lubed but that didn't change the mushy feel. I've just learned to make sure they've fully canceled after making a turn.

I'm redoing my tank now and considering shooting the exterior with Line-X. It should last forever and be "ding" resistent. Has anyone else done this?

SteveJ, thanks for the link. I just jumped on a set!

Sorry to hear that, Dave. As someone that has the product installed I would recommend it to anyone. It is a high quality, well made, and easy to install mod that, IMHO, was under priced when I bought it. I'd be willing to bet that you could easily get $225 and $275 for them respectively and they would still be a bargain. To those that wanted one and are on the fence - $$ well spent!

Is the trans a 4, 5, or auto?

To all the electric gurus, I need a pulsed negative for my Speedhut tach. Can I tap the #4 pin at the ECU to achieve what I need? Is this a reasonable solution? Suggestions? I have the FSM and a color schematic of the electrical system but reading an electrical diagram is not my strong suit. Well, ok, I'm a wiring theory moron but more than capable of soldering and heat shrinking. Thanks! '78 280z

Wow! What an amazing contribution - thanks! To all the electric gurus, I need a pulsed negative for my Speedhut tach. Can I tap the #4 pin at the ECU to achieve what I need? Is this a reasonable solution? Suggestions? Sorry for the hijack...

Lazy.

I can't believe no one has any input on this. Guys (and gals) that have installed aftermarket gauges and senders, did you eliminate the stock senders or somehow just add the aftermarket ones?

This is probably a DUMB question but.... I'm replacing all my gauges with Speedhut gauges to include their oil pressure and coolant temp units. I see from the FSM that both of the stock sending units go to the EFI control unit. Also, the new units require the use of their sending units. So... 1. Will the elimination of the stock sending units for oil and temp cause a problem with the fuel EFI control? 2. If I use Speedhut's sending units, which must be of different current and/r resistance than stock, be OK? 3. Do I need to keep the stock senders in place and ADD the new ones just for the gauges? If yes, does anyone have any recommendations on the best way to do so? Sorry for the multiple questions. I found many related threads but none touched on this issue. Thanks!!

Jinx - buy me a Coke.

http://www.preeng.com/xcart/product.php?productid=10&cat=3&page=1 First page of a Google search. Enjoy!

I would LOVE to see a set of more aggressive replacement foam and matching upholstery. I'd be all over that in a second! Keep us posted.

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ I do not have personal experience with them, yet, but I have heard good things.

Yes, that's it. I'm an idiot...

Gone again. New host?