munters

This is FS5C71A no brass... and holds 275bhp just fine.

It looks great. Led's are not so easy to dimm. Not with the original turn resistance they keep on down to a certain voltage and then turn off . I think you need a pwm.

I don't know but I have never seen a OEM plated brake line.I have seen them plasic coated in greenish color(old bmw's). Therefore I did my restoration with CuNi. But we will see what others know.

I don't know but for me there is a rule. Playing with a distributor =timing light. It's like changing a MC=Bleed the brakes.

I know this. It took 25 years.

Ok thanks for the effort. I will try that. Maybe it clears with the OEM manifold. The wiring is the point. I rewired the dash myself and don't want to mess it up.

That's really nice. Cool thanks

What bothers me the most is that this u-joint is the only thing not new or rebuild on my car and now it failed.

You nailed the question. I have always difficulty to express myself in english.

Yes I know I have to take shaft off. But can I take the shaft out without taking the column off? I bought already the quad u-joints.

Is it possible to take the 240z lower steering shaft out of column without dismounting the column and steering rack? Engine mount interference? I have to change the u-joint and did just find in another thread from CO it could go. but does it?

I'm with zed head here. The reason of engine failure has been put without evidence directly to 123. (I did read the emails) . they tried to help. Don't trust instructions except special points like the led in the 123 case. When you need them to do the job, then maybe you should ask someone to do it for you.

One thing to add. Outside us diff 3.7 5 gear first 2.9 and fifth 0.83 I think

It is possible to operate them without any springs but it depends a lot on your linkage. It looks like you need one in the state it is now. Popping is lean not rich.

I also went through a whole restauration and didn't have any cracks. Never more then 2 hours in the sun after a month the cracks started and keep coming... I believe it.

Vintage connectors sell this tools for the 6mm and 3mm connectors.

Driving around is mostly the transition between idle and main jet. Gray plug means to lean mixture. Bubbling/shooting means also to lean mixture. Do you have an afr meter?

Take the whp... 200whp l28 6000$ would give 4500 for yours. Just an idea

A side note. Europe 98RON =94us (Ron+MON/2) and 95RON =91us.

I put several layer masikin tape stored it for 26years in cellar, outside garage box unheated and stockage room it was still blank metall inside. (It was empty and dry.) Nothing more needed.

I went with leather everywhere in the car except dash and floor. I love the smell and would do it again.

In europe we didn't even have a vapor tank. I like the maple sirup gas idea. I guess as well security layer between vapor and interieur.

Its actually a multiple spark system below 2000 rpm and above its a long duration single spark. My 123 is already auto dwell current limiting.

I am using the Crane HI-6S with a Lx91 Coil (Crane 6000-6305 ) system with it (before the MSD but the MSD died) It is a big difference with the Crane/MSD compared to the 123 alone. With my Triples the warm start was crap. with the Crane it starts always perfectly and the spark is now a real one and not a weak little glimmer as before.

What i learned was many cars had this and when people manipulated the milage they used a drill and thy could just turn in 1 direction. This could then be detected because of the 100k number. This has been told in the mechanic scool in the early 80s.