livenbad

Hello all...I am installing seats from a 2001 Mercedes slk in my 71 Z. Six way power, and very heavy (bummer but my racing days are behind me). Will post pics soon.

Back in the day, Datsun Comp was happy to sell suspensions, race cams, racing transmissions with steel syncros, limited slip rear ends, comp brakes, etc. Point being I had (and still have) such a car. It wasn't even the fastest Z in town but it would blow the doors of 911's and Vettes, even big blocks. A friend of mine once told a small block Corvette owner, "you better watch out for that yellow Z, it will outrun the word of god" It would also rip out the rear end VERY easily.

It was in early '74 in Fayetteville NC when I saw the for sale sign on the yellow 71 Z. My life has been hell (kidding) ever since. Cost me one marriage when she found out I spent all our money on a new dash. Well, how would you like to drive a classic with a cracked dash??? Just came in from garage....can't get much brake pressure after rear disc conversion...should have left well enough alone. Z car hasn't left garage in three years now...and I have still spent a couple thousand on it. thirty-nine years and counting.

thanks for the reply....the old tranny was one of the first from datsun comp in 1974. close ratio. I traded it for the rebuilt zx tranny. It probably was worth more but was not in very good shape and parts are impossible to find. I did the swap due to extreme noise (whine) in overdrive. It lasted a long time....did hundreds of speed shifts!!!

Hello zheads....I am replacing a racing tranny I have had in my 240z for 30 years with a 1980 non turbo 5 speed. Purchased a zx clutch slave to match the tranny...also collar, etc... My question is the xz slave cylinder doesn't have adjustment. How do I adjust the pedal play??? Thanks much

Hello fellow znuts....I probably should know the answer to this question as I have owned my Z car for 35 years....but brain fade (age) is getting to me! I have traded my racing tranny for a 81 280zx tranny as I am putting the car back in "quiet and comfortable" mode. Which drive shaft will I need? (The one I had went with the transmission.) Also, any any thoughts on whether I should straighten out the rear end while I have everything apart would be greatly appreciated. (I'll need the later style mount and mushtash bar...right???) regards, Sam Livengood:)

I like yours, I love mine!!!

Looks very nice...any problem with installation?

OOPS!!! I didn't notice that you have a 280.....Sorry. However I still suggest you bridge the voltage gauge to make sure it isn't bad. Doesn't the white wire still go on to the ignition switch? I managed to put the switch in upside down in my 240 once. Took forever to find the problem. It has a slot also.

I think the primary reason that the 240Z blower doesn't put out much air is the metal fan (birdcage). It is heavy. I used the entire assembly from the prelude. It has a nylon birdcage and is much lighter.

Suggest you make sure the ignition switch isn't upside down. It could also be a bad amp gauge.

I didn't take pics...sorry. Tried 89 civic blower first with little success as the brushes were worn. The prelude one is a perfect fit (no gasket needed) as long as you clip the nibs on the cage.

Hello All... the Honda Prelude 97, 98, 99, 00, and 01 blower fits a 240Z. There are additional screw holes in the flanges that fit perfectly and I clipped off the nibs in the cage with toenail clippers. A much newer replacement part and it REALLY blows.

Hello All....Does anyone know if the Motorsport A/C kit includes the switches and controls? Thanks

Fellow members...Thanks for all the help on this....I finally found the problem....the Amp gauge was fried. Should have looked at it first off. Now All I have to do is put it back together again!!!

Fellow members>>>>Anybody got an Amp gauge for a 70/71???

Thanks for the replies!!! The first thing I did was replace the fusible links...they are not the problem. I am beginning to suspect the "new" fuse block with maxi fuses. It has a circuit board arrrangement. Will take it appart to see if there are shorts in the board.

A quick update: After installing new starter, voltage regulator, ignition switch, stripping back the wiring to find shorts (there were none), I have power to the horn, voltage regulator and the left side of the fuse block. No power to the ignition switch. No lights. Have ordered an accessory relay. Had load test done on battery and it was OK...or so they said. Have learned way more about auto electric then I wanted to.

also make sure the water jacket hole in the head gasket matches the head and block. I bought one that did not match up once.

If you have a blown head gasket (or water leak inside the head surface) you will usually see some discoloration around the water jacket hole

Thanks for getting me back on track. Will start with fusable links (if I can just find them???) and on to the alternator (which was smoking). Then check the battery. Is that a good start? Thanks again TomoHawk

Ok....now I feel REALLY dumb....I know what a fuseable link looks like but where is it???? (later)...I found the link under 30 years of tape and it is not burned. The fusable link at the alternator has been removed..by a auto electric company that worked on the car years ago. When I removed the tape on the white and red wire going to the alternator it had a burned smell. Anyway my question is: If the alternator diodes cooked would that stop all power to the car (nothing works) ??? I can't find any fuses that are burned out. Thanks

Thanks again...I'll start again in the morn. The alternator was less than 3 months old

Thanks...I hooked it up right and the car is dead...as a doornail. Bummer

Hello...sadly I have cooked my Z car today. And after owning it for over thirty years I accidenitally connected the battery cables backward. Can't imagine what I was thinking. Was reconnecting after installing relay wiring harness for lights and new fuse box. Since the ignition switch was off I don't think it got into the car. However, the alternator was smoking , and maybe new distributor (electronic from 280zx) and starter. None of the fuses in the new fuse box burned nor did the inline fuse for the lights. Should I start by stripping back all the wires in the enging compartment or what??? :mad: :sick: