Brae

So I've confirmedd that air is coming from mate where the brake mc and master vac mate.has anyone had this problem and know which of those 2 should be replaced

i havent bled the master cylinders yet, and i believe it started happening when i changed the rear left cylinder. I think im going to re bleed the system and the master cylinder and ill let you know if it still has air. this is all without the engine running btw

So I just finished installing new calipers, shoes and went the bleed the brakes. After bleeding them all i noticed i could still hear air and it was coming form the master cylinder where it connects to the master vac, near the bottom. Is there a gasket that goes there? or is one or both of those broken and needs to be replaced... Also when i pressed on the brakes only the rear would lock up not the front

i placed something under the hub and held one side of the rotor while i beat the sh*t out of the rotor with a mallet, rotated rotor to evenly smack it out, just keep at it and hit it VERY hard

When does it lose all power, when braking or stopped? or below certain rpm?

thanks!, ill be using this in a few days

i just bought about 3.5k worth of stuff from zstore, including a classic projector HID kit, i'll let you know how they look, prob make a video.

I've seen commercials about this. Try taking some Extendz, from what I hear it gets antennas to go up.

The smoke is coming near the front, around the temp sensor area but I haven't pin pointed it, it's hard to tell where exactly, it sounds like slight hissing or steaming around it.could it be a coolant hose not on tight or old and cracked a bit? this is the first time its been driven in over 15 years. The dripping noise was very faint had to be dead silent then you could hear a bit.when I had the hood open it didn't smoke.could it be the cold weather with hot enginewhen hood is closed cause it to form water on engine because when I opened hood after running it seemed wet for a few seconds, sort of shiny. Do you know any good ways of cleaning the engine bay really well? I don't know any effective methods .thanks

The good news is i can drive the car now that i changed the master/slave clutch cylinder so shifting works. The bad news is there is some white smoke on top of the engine for about a minute after i turn off the engine, could this be caused by the dirt on top of my engine? it hasnt been cleaned since I bought it and I don't know what to use because I dont want water getting into places it shouldnt be. Also after I ran the engine and turned it off i heard a very faint dripping sound about every 3-5 seconds, sounded near the bottom of the engine/exhaust manifold side, but there was nothing on the ground. When i let it idle there was no smoke but when i put it in reverse to drive out or 1st to drive back into the garage, when i opened the hood it was smoking a bit. Confused about the smoke and dripping noise. I took a picture of wherebouts i see the smoke coming out, its not too much just want to be careful though.

Welcome! I'm from vancouver too I bought my Z from kelowna, just check out kijiji/craigslist and stuff like that, anywhere thats within bc and the shipping shouldnt be too bad, only costed me about 200$ to get it shipped to my home and there was only 2 rust spots, not bad for $2400 total including shipping.

"If you ain't first, you're last."

Anyone know where I could get a 4 point harness and harness bar that aren't overpriced and will fit the 280z? I saw a harness bar on andysauto but I've heard bad reviews about them and I don't know where else to search/ and what the length between the pillars is.

Thanks alot this is good news

if im getting tokico illuminas and springs, i need bump stops.. but what about bump steer spacers? I'm going to be putting 16's on it so not too sure if they are a mandatory thing? If I should get please let me know, very confused right now.

I'm going to get the xxr 527's and was wondering if 225/50/15 would be a good fit on 15x8.25, I bought illuminas and tokico springs, will i get any rub? Also would i get any rub on 16x8.25 with 225/50/16(not sure what the right size should be). Thanks

o i pulled off the master, cleaned it all out and made it look brand new it works fine now. was easier to fix than turbine engines from brazil

the master cylinder was empty and full of black stuff and the clutch function of pressing down was stuck in taht position so thats why no liquid was going through. after removing it and cleaning it up and making everything look new, we tried it again. The brake fluid was flowing fine but not out of the nipple... we looked on the ground and saw a puddle. the operating cylinder was missing the push rod, dust cover, piston spring, piston, piston cup. only the cylinder and the bleeder screw were there so the liquid just went all over the ground . Thanks for the help, once i buy a new operating cylinder everything should be fine.

im planning on getting tokico springs and struts, im not sure how much itll change what i can put on the car, but 16x8 should be ok right? will there be any rubbing? I'm also clueless when it comes to tires so I don't know what to get if i purchase these wheels

So I've been looking at these XXR 522's and was wondering if they will work fine, and what tires i should get for them.they are 16x8 0 offset 4/114.3. I cant decide between the flat black or chromium black, does anyone have any of these or have good pictures of what they look like on a 280z. here are the pics. 1010tires.com has them for 125.99 each canadian if you know any cheaper sites please do tell!

My clutch pedal goes down very easily to the floor, but comes back up still, and i can put the shifter into gear without having to depress the pedal, would having very little clutch fluid cause this? its below the minimum. I would go fill it up but i dont get to see the car everyday so im wondering if there is something else that I should look for if filling it up doesnt solve the problem next time i work on the car.its a 1976 280z if that helps. thank you

Now that I've got the car running I'm trying to fix the gages but a few of them dont seem to work. for the temp/oil gage the oil works but the temp doesnt, I believe becaus my water temperature sensor isn't working .. but im not 100% sure. for the volt/fuel gage i cant get a reading on either, but the light goes on when i turn the key "on". the clock also doesn't work. Thanks in advance

Wellthe connector that goes from after the relay then goes in dash then around ca, the green wire had been cut or missing on the side near the fuse box, and I noticed a yellow wire not connecting anywhere so I followes it to the next connection and ur turned a green wire.the previous owner must of tried to make a switch but never finished it.after several continuity tests I found thats the wire I'm looking for so I cut the wire on connector near relay and added it, then it ran .sorry if you dont understand this, but I took a picture I'll post later then this wall of text will make sense. My csv and air regulator should probably be fixed before I change my idle right?

So I found the wire, fixed the one that was disconnected and had it's color changed.car runs now but after about 1 minute it stopped,i think it's because the idle was so low, like around 400.it ran again after , just low idle.what should I set the idle to.