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ok so i checked the AAR and it was bad, but now im still wondering how to fix the wires that go to the fuel pump from the relay. Do you happen to have a diagram or pictures showing how to make a fuel pump cut off switch or bookmark saved. Thanks

I have a feeling a connection or wire between relay and fuel pump is fried or corroded as there is no continuity/power to the wires, but the relay works. Is this a common problem? Where can I find wiring after it goes in the relay connectors

IfMy relay is clicking both times, but I'm still not getting power to pump, should I replace the wires /connectors between the two pieces , if reconnecting doesn't help.whereabouts does the wire go aftee the relay

i put the volt meter on the green and black wire and the highest it ever went was like .04, is there a way to check just "88d"(one that goes to fuel pump) on the relay. When i put power to the AAR, it made no noise or anything and when i took the continuity of the 2 connector pieces, it made no noise or anything. if i hear my relay click twice(on and start), wouldnt that mean its getting power? I never got a close look at the wire but maybe the black and green wires just need to be replaced? maybe its heavily corroded, but im not sure how long the wire is and where it goes to after the fuel tank

Hey I was wondering if having no continuity on the air regulator would be the reason why no power is going to the fuel pump which comes afterwards, also would that affect the injectors also? because they dont fire when I use an external power source on it. the injectors have power, the fuel pump works, the relay clicks, but no continuity on air regulator.

So I did a bunch of checks again then went back to the 34th pin to ground, for air regulator and fuel pump.did the check, no continuity.took out connector, checked air regulator, no continuity.i guess I need to buy a new one, that would probably cause my fuel pump not to be getting any power.but what I'm wondering is if that would also be the reason for injectors not firing

The coil positive and negative are already hooked up but for some reason instead of having 2blue/black I have one blue/black and one thats black white.and I dont know the name of the part thats missing a connection by the bracket.the tiny cylinder shaped one

i noticed that for the 2 wires for the ignition coil and resistor in the middle, they are supposed to be dark blue/black but only one of mine is, the other is black/white

Ok the tach is working but no difference. I did however take a couple pictures of wires/areas I'm not entirely sure about and could really use some help with.

Do you happen to have any pictures of the diagram or blue wire pictures

i've tried starting it again, i cant seem to hear the fuel pump still, but the relay is clicking now, ill play around with the connection. it only starts with spray fluid still so i think my. theres a black wire and a green wire for the fuel pump, the green one is positive correct? Ill check the tach circuit make sure its connected then let you know if i find anything else. thanks for the help so far

so i changed the wire and fuse to an inline maxi fuse one, and these are my results for the FSM tests of the engine not starting. for continuity i wrote down the # and also set it to make noise if continuity existed. 1 (3a) AFM continuity from 6-8 181.6, no noise ( AFM continuity from 7-8 188.7, no noise © AFM continuity from 8-9 101.5, no noise 1 (5) Fuel pump contact 10-20 004.2, noise 1 (6) Water temperature sensor 13-body no continuity 1 (7) Electronic fuel injection relay 20-body only made noise at "On" 1 (8) Air regulator and fuel pump 34-body only made noise at "Start" 1 (9a) Ground circuit 5-body 001.5, noise ( Ground circuit 16-body 000.7, noise © Ground circuit 17-body 000.9, noise (d) Ground circuit 35-body 000.8, noise 2(1) Revolution trigger signal 11.72 volts 2(2) Power line circuit 11.83 volts 2(3) Injector and dropping resister 11.81-11.83 volts for all 6 checks 3(1) Starter signal 11.64 volts 3(2) Air regulator 11.63 volts 3(3) Cold start valve and thermotime switch 11.74 volts From what I see it seems that only 1(6) is the problem, but i could be wrong, am i reading this information incorrectly? please do let me know . on the + side, almost everything that was wrong with it before is fixed other than 1(6)

i bought the car like this so when i plugged it in i never noticed anything weird, so it must of been fried before

ah ok, well the one with fusible link stays on positive, the other one ill take out and put it on the negative. Now it's starting to all make sense why lots of things arent working. since there was a direct short im assuming the fusible link is fried haha. I hope the other wire is fine.

are you saying that my positive one having 3 wires coming out is wrong? Should i move the black one that turns to red with no fusible link on it to the negative side

The white wire connects to a fusible link then it goes to the relay on this pic. I dont see the other red wire on this diagram

I installed the injector connectors and no difference, but i took a look at that "5th" fusible link and i took pictures hoping it will help, im not sure which one it is because theres 2 wires that connect, but im guessing the one where the guy tried to tie it together with tape (its also very wobbly/loose; might be broke?) might be the reason for these problems im having. Just looking for some confirmation that it's the wire you are talking about. Would this alone cause the symptoms that i've listed?

Just bought the connectors, thanks for the link. Zed head, i just put 4 brand new fusible links in just the other week, is there something else is could be? Ill check the fusible link again but I'm pretty sure its good. I'm Leaning towards it being the relay as my friend said he couldnt get his relay to work either on both of his Z's so he just made a switch for the fuel pump. If I cant get the relay to work I'll have to resort to the switch since the added security is nice. This week I'll try to fix all the connectors and if i find something else/fix it then I'll let you know, wish me luck

So I did every test under the No start category of the FSM, including the voltage checks and what i've found is this. 1(6) water temperature sensor (13-ground) has no continuity 1(8) Air regulator and fuel pump (34-ground) has no continuity 2(2) Power line circuit is (10-ground) is only reading .04 volts 2(3) injector and dropping resistor terminal steps A(cylinder 4, 14-ground), B(cylinder 1, 15-ground), C(cylinder 5, 30-ground), D(cylinder 6, 31-ground), E(cylinder 3, 32-ground), F(cylinder 2, 33-ground) all are reading .04 volts 3(2) Air regulator - It didn't say to do this one, but it was only reading .05 volts at "start" The line before the relay, after air regulator is the one that is the problem from what i can tell from the checks for the fuel pump not working, what should I do now, follow that wire and change it out? Lost please give tips.

i checked the AFM and did all 3 of the steps for resistance, but noticed for 1 (3b) that it was around 185 ohms and then whenever i had a friend press open the flap, it would increase. I thought it was supposed to decrease when you press it in? On the other 2 resistance checks i had 181.5 ohms so the AFM seems fine from what i understand (and the switch is working). I have a few wires that i have no clue where they go (about 3), perhaps they could be another reason but they did not seem to fit anywhere, other then the black one on the afm that is under the top left bolt, but i dont know where i connect the other part of it to. I'll take pics tomorrow

i checked the fuel pump shut off switch and both the input and output have continuity, also i checked the air regulator wires for continuity and the one wire nearest the driver side (i believe #48) does not have continuity. Since that goes to the relay and then the fuel pump, would that be the reason my relay isnt clicking and im not hearing anything from the fuel pump? If that's the case, how do i change/fix that wire.

I'm having a problem with my 1976 280z. The fuel pump works when I connect a battery to it, and I've checked for continuity on the relay and thats fine aswell, but when I dont have a dedicated 12v, it wont work. When I try to start the car, it cranks but there is no click from the relay, and the fuel pump doesnt make a sound. I've tried using the fuel injection bible for this problem (the relay not clicking). When I perform the continuity check for the 2nd step on page 55, I ONLY get continuity when the NEGATIVE is connected to 20 on the control unit and the positive is grounded. After performing this step I tried the one on page 56 but could not get continuity either way. I've checked the fuel pump/wiring/air regulator, and they all seem fine. Also when I used a battery for the fuel pump while cranking, it still wouldnt start but fuel was going past the filter. Does anyone know how I can fix this, or if me putting a switch to bypass the relay to make a fuel pump switch would solve the problem I'm having? Thanks in advance.