Len

Humm, An interesting thread. So how much is 100 yen?

Blue, That is an awesome looking restore. Good 4 you. Len

P.O.: Yo', my car is bouncing around in the rear. I hope I don't need to go an replace a shock or sumthin. Ain't got the scratch for nuttin like that. BFF: Hey dude, no worries. I 'ad the same problem and fixed it up jus fine. Mine is like, smooth now. P.O: Howed you do that? BFF: Hey, I just need some ole tire tread and some balin wire to fixed it up like new.

I was watching the bidding on Ebay for the OEM radio. In the last 12 mintues, two bidders went nuts - leap-frogging the other's maximum bid. It reached insanity levels. I would like to have scooped up that radio, but not in that feeding frenzie. I still need are really good radio, with seek function. But the price and quality both need to be right.

Hi, Over the weekend I cleaned and repainted the glove box door. After painting, I applied Rainx. That really cleaned the slick plastic sides and removed the scratch marks. An Armour All spritzing was the final step. To repair the broken hinge, I'm trying something different. I started with fiberglass mesh (used for dry wall seams), sprayed it black and super glued pieces at the three hinge points. It is hardly visible when the door is installed. I'll see if this turns out to be a durable solution..

OK, one more comment. Without the gauges to measure the pressure on the A/C system, you can still come pretty close to the right charge. As you approach the full charge, the coolant lines will sweat. At full charge, the sweating should go all the way to the compressor. If the top of the compressor is also sweating, then you may have put in too much refrigerant. Len

Hi, You have offered a lot of ideas on A/C charges. I'd say they are creative and pretty sound. They are also a lot of work and will take time. Converting the A/C system to a refrigerant gas other than R-12 is probably the best long-term solution. Leaks will occur in old systems and with the very high cost of R12, the cost of conversion will be less than the cost of the R12. I agree with other posts on this topic, that replacing the drier is critically important. Removing moisture from the system is a high priority. One of the reasons to evacuate the system, before recharging it, is to remove moisture. Never recharge a system without replacing the drier. Finding leaks in an A/C system is trickey. Sometimes you can spot oil on the lines - since refrigerant oil circulates with the gas, the oil can be a leak indicator. You can try soapy water, just like looking for a tire leak. Beyond the easy-to-find leaks, it is best to go to a service center which specializes in automotive air conditioning. When we are dealing with 40-year old parts, there is a good chance that there are so many pin-hole leaks that new parts will be necessary. When I installed A/C in my 71 Z, I noticed that the compressor was larger than the one for the other 1971 Datsun models. The cabin volume is smaller, so I was not surprised when it really kicked out the cold air. The only problem I had was with the condensation drain. The plastic hose kinked when it went through the firewall. That did not allow water to drain and the cooling coil would freeze up like an ice cube. I took a piece of copper tubing, carefully curved it and then positioned it inside of the plastic hose to keep the line open. I hope this is helpful. Good Luck to all. Len

This piece needed a lot of TLC. A PO tried to remove the blower knob by prying it off. He darned near pulled the set screw through the knob. Some people should not even be allowed to use a screw driver.

Nice Thread. Looks like a good place for my 'blue' question. I'm doing a complete restore of a 5/71. I'd really like to do the light blue interior, but the interior panels I have are black. Does anyone have experience in dying or otherwise coloring interior panels? FYI, I bought a Series one new in '71. It was white with the light blue interior. Thanks for any help you can offer. Len