Alex K

we'll figure this out ourselves.

Oh trust me, we searched for a long time. We also drove the car with 50% braking power. Thing's fun to drive. We also used a twig to hold the shifter in place. How's that for safety, Leon?

Guys this thing sounds like an airplane. Open headers are awesome.

Posting this so I don't lose the link... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41386-73-240z-No-spark-from-coil ^ has a lot of good information.

Yes we are using this diagram. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10508&d=1135999612

Thank you for that. The schematic helps. Maybe someone will read this and understand.... -At the location of the ignition we have a green wire with a white stripe that is ONLY active when we turn the key. -2 Positive black wires with white stripes. -Yellow wire that grounds to engine -Black wire that looks like it would connected to the distributor as a ground, but while testing for complete circuits, we couldn't find a reason to call that location a ground. We also had what looked like a small capacitor/condenser that was sitting around. Maybe we need to use that?

Or does anyone have a wiring diagram besides any that google show, or that are in the book? Maybe some pictures of your stock engine? All of the wires are live, it's just a matter of hooking them up correctly. We have yet to find a decent wiring diagram. We tried our brains and messed around with different combinations, but nothing seems to get it to spark.

Well there's no holes or anything, not leaking just dirty. So we just want to get the rust out, and re-coat if possible. Not looking to buy a new tank. But we'll keep that in mind.

Shake... Harder!

Found out the gas tank has about a mm of rust all the way around, and big chunks were coming out while we cleaned it. Advice?

Hi Austin! . To those reading here's a picture of what we're talking about... Sorry it's not a good picture - it's hard to find one. The part circled in red looks 'warped'. It looks like someone had it in first, or fourth and then pushed it as hard as they could, or somehow used some sort of force to bend the actual part that connects to the transmission. There is a considerable amount of play in the stick. We noticed if we added some thin washers, it decreased the play significantly. Those bushings ta added looked like it would fix the problem... We also thought about removing the lever itself, but it seems impossible to take it off. There's some sort of screw just above the red circle that is either fixed, or really stuck. We thought about heating the metal up and forming it back to it's original shape - but then we saw the bushings which I hope will fix it...