Tidoubleger24

from what ive seen, side skirts are applied with double sided tape thats 3 in long and spaced out 3 to 4 inches. ive seen people silicone the whole length so they dont hold water.. but those were tuner body kits

ooooo 350z ... i completly forgot about that heheh

i ran a single straight 2.5 pipe after the open header incident, it was just as loud, but didnt resonate in the car, because the noise was at the back not under your feet. after much consideration of open, straight,muffled, or quiet, i decided it was kinda stupid to be driving soo loudly, because i love speed and it only draws attention to yourself. after my car is done i want to have a openable gate much like chino was talking about and have it exit in the lower front fender behind the front wheel, and then have a really quiet exhaust for fast silent fun

Gt40... i like the new one and the orginal not the mark 2 or 3.. Zonda ( the one with the 4 tail pipes comming out of the center of the rear end).. i saw it on fifth gear on speedvision (its a good show), very sweet.. Noble... that car is awsome too Skyline 2000gt Daytona coupe 240z only Veyron fast back mustang hemi cuda .... and it goes on

in a six lane road, 3 one way, 3 other way??......

when my 240z was running i was in the process of getting a pipe made from header all the way back, and ran an open header for like 2 months. it was soo awesome, espically goosing it between two buses, it echoed and amplified it, it was awesome, no tickets tho, thank god, must be lazy arse fla cops, hehehe. but any ride over 45 mintues gave you the worst headache...(tooo loud)

i think that 2000k may be a little on the dim side... they are bright as hell at night and when u look at them straight on, but when its dusk out, they can wash out esp if there not pointed directly at the guage face. if ur going white, i know they have 10k plus mcd. id definatly get the highest mcd possible. also a cheap way to go is buy in bulk off of ebay. 4 dollars for 2 at radio shack versus 20 dollars for a 100 of nice quality ones. also that means if u burn up a few its ok, and id also think about putting more leds in each gauge than light bulb holes, as leds are small and only need an 1/8 in hole to fit. id say about 5 per light should look good, and the thing about the red lights, its true, they use only red light at night aboard commerical ships at night because it doesnt affect your pupils dialiation.... but red isnt for everyone also something to look into is electrolumince film.... its expensive, compared to leds, but it sure is nice, and its something youll have to make and experiment with, unless NR has them made for datsuns.. i dunno, they make em for hondas you can do a search on google to find out more bc i havent made my gauge faces yet

i found this pic over a year ago and i didnt like the paint then, but now i think its perfect, and the web site listed the color, but i have forgetten it. have any of u seen his website b4? any help appericated.

Just curious to know what the advantages and disadvantages of the maxi fuse block are, and i read a technical article about the installation, but it stated for racing only...? why not for use on the street? i have a 73 240z and a "joe somebody" "renewed" it, and he wasnt a proficent mechanic, and i havent found any fusable links in any of the wiring harnesses.. hummm.. but after reading the article it seemed worth while and seemed like i could splice into my harness, with or without the links. dont get me wrong my car runs ok, just 30+ yr old wiring could use a break. i tried searching the forums, but nothing came up either. Thanks Dan

hello, i dont know the anwser to some of your questions, so ill leave those to more qualified people... 1) ugh ?? however i have heard that the factory paint can be sprayed over, would u have to remover clear coat.. i dunno. 2) when it comes to paint and what brand to pick, id stick with ppg or dupont. I was told from a professional restorer that ppg was the best band to use, cuz it was the higest quality and most advanced, hes been doing this since he was a teenager, and is highly sought out. also check the refence charts on the pimer, becuase it will state exactly what to use the paint with, what base and clear. most paint sales people are not knowedable and will give you wrong advice. theres extensice information from ppg on how to use the paint and what other paint to use it with. 3) when it comes to how many coats, it could be as much as 7 to 8. you have to ask your self how good do i want it to look and how much money i have and how much time you have. the more time you spend it prep work and making the panels completly flat and smooth the better the final finish will be. 4) when sanding the primer, you should use a solid block or bar sander, because its straight and wount make any divits in the paint, asa final color of black will show the most imperfections in the prep work, and panels. sanding should be light and smooth and not go through the first coat of primer. the more sanding that is done, the more coats of primer you need to build it back up. 5) when you remove parts, it can be harder to make the car look uniform espically for the beginner. commonly someone will put the panels back on only to find them darker or lighter that the rest of the car. 6) metallic paints (well candies) can be harder to paint because they need a base coat of silver and then the candy paint is sprayed over that, and its a semi transparent paint, and the more layers the thicker it is, and darker. So to get a car the same color all around, can be difficult. metallic paint however im not too familar with the different varities of, and someone else should give you that info. however i think its the same as spraying a regular color, as the metallic is mixed into the color, and sprays the same. i found that the metallic does settle, and needed shaking of the cup, so in that respect it is harder ( im my experience, i asked for a solid color to be made into a metallic, and sliver flake was added). as far as brand, id go ppg if the funds were there. The rest of the questions are usually paint specific and found on the can, or on information that you can get from the company. 7) if there is belemishes in the paint or sags or drips/runs, then yes it should be sanded. however, when using the advanced enamel paints, they dry glossy and dont need sanding. laquer paints need to be buffed to achieve the final gloss. 8) for clear id stick with the same brand and go off of its directions, as different types of paint dont mix, and even different varities of paint within a line arent really meant to used together. Wet sanding is when you are using a very fine grit sand paper, and water "cleans" out the sand paper, (u sand with running water over the surface) because if u dont, paint flakes clog the sand paper and then the paint actually digs into itself, causing deeper scratches. wet sanding produces a beautful finish thats very glossy. do your own research online, and try to find out the most you can before tackling this job. the internet is a vast resource with many good sites, and i found a site under the link section under personal z sites, that had a lot of good info. then ull be able to start to see if the info youve come across is bogus or worth taking a look at or if the guy at the counter know wtf hes talking about. it isnt too common however. please correct and misguided info, as this is info ive gathered from many sources, and some on my own experiences.