YogiBearandBooB

Cranberry Juice works good also.

Poly bushings are far diferent than the stock rubber bushings. Poly (Urethane) bushings "will not" require hammering to be installed. "Most " of these Poly bushings require that the metal shell of the stock bushing be left in place for a proper fit. "Most" people heat the MB until the outer part of the stock rubber bushing melts a little so that part of the bushing can be removed with a hit of a hammer to the bushing. If the metal shell is still in place you should not have to use exhaust tubing on this installation.

If you can't trust a "professional restorer" to know what "ALL ORIGINAL" means, and advertise what he sells honestly, and accurately.........................he's just a "restorer" and NOT very professional at all. Mr Spillman has my support. That's how I see it from Jellystone Park!

"It is a "breather" for the block " "and is used as part of the smog system to remove gases from the combustion process that leak past the piston rings into the sump, and directs them back to the air cleaner so they can be burned again by the engine." I stand by my statements!

The pipe "can" be removed, but it is a pain to do. It is a "breather" for the block and is used as part of the smog system to remove gases from the combustion process that leak past the piston rings into the sump, and directs them back to the air cleaner so they can be burned again by the engine. I would just clean the loose "smaller pipe" and do the JB Weld thing. Much easier than mucking about with trying to remove the larger pipe and having it welded up or looking for a replacement.

I saw Brendan Gaughan (Nascar Truck series star, and Nextel Cup rookie) on Speed channel over the weekend talking about driving one of these new Dodge SRT 10 trucks at the Dodge Proving Grounds in Chelsea to a new world record for a rock stock production pickup truck with "flag" style mirrors mounted, and the tailgate in place to 155.5 m.p.h. still an expensive truck, but a fast one.

What year and model car do you have? those parts aren't on my 240 or 260Z.

"there's another nice quick and easy solution!" Err, well; not really. Sorry. It isn't a really difficult job, but it does take some time and thought the first time you go at it. If you are going to attempt this yourself, ask for help on the site. I've seen several folks post information about having done this job.

I think he's asking what to do AFTER the POR15 thing. I don't think undercoat is necessary after THAT. It may not hurt, but should not be required. If he did the POR15 right, there wouldn't be any "thin paint that Datsun used" remaining to worry about. Only super tough POR15! Isn't the "tar/asphalt" stuff on theINSIDE of the car? Under the carpet? I don't believe it's there for "protection" from anything except road noise.