mjyikes

I want to give away the molds I used to create the fender flares on my car. Also I have molds for the rear trunk cover and rear tailight panel. I'm in San Diego and they would need to be picked up, because I'm moving and I don't want to move them too.

Does anyone know the correct way to measure toe-in, without going to an alignment shop ? The manual lists the toe-in for a 72 240Z as 1.59-5.56mm. Is that measured from the leading edge of the tire to the trailing edge, measured at the center height, or is it from the leading edge of the tire to the center of the wheel ? One would result in twice the toe-in as the other.

Thanks for the help guys. I tried to see if the motor still worked and it doesn't. It looks like if I can find a cheap 280Z clock and use the internals, it should work well. So I'm off to All Z Auto parts tomorrow morning.

I have a '72 240Z with a 280Z motor in it. It has a breaker-less distributor installed by a "professional" shop. The tach doesn't work properly. With the first one, the needle went flying all over the place, then quit. Went to a junk yard and got a replacement and this one only reads between 0 and around 500 when I'm revving to about 4500. I called the shop to confirm that they hooked it up correctly and they assured me that they were the professionals and knew what they were doing and I just happened to get two bad tachs. Is there a special way to wire a '72 tach when you are using a newer distributor ? How can I tell what year distributor it is ? I think it is a '78 but I'm not sure. I pulled the whole dash out today to fix several things, and took the tach apart and noticed one of the little resistors is bubbly and the outside is cracking off. That is why I think it is wired wrong. Anybody ?

Has anyone had good luck replacing the clock from a 72 Z with a clock from a newer vehicle or an aftermarket source ?

Thanks for that reassurance, 2manyz's It seemed to work fine, I just don't like to force something if it's not right. There was no measuring guage for the bushings from Motorsport, would you happen to know that dimension, I'm sure I could call them tomorrow and get that info. The tightening of those bushings would seem to affect the caster, so it's probably important. Also, what kind of paint can you use on the brake caliper, and wheel hub, I don't like rust.

I have a question regarding tension rod bushing replacement. I am replacing all of the bushings in the front suspension with new urethane ones from Motorsport. As I'm replacing the tension rod ones, I notice that they are about .100" thicker than stock rubber ones (which may have been compressed since I don't know how old they are), and about 10 times as hard. When I assemble them, the holes to bolt the tension rod to the control arm don't line up any more, they are off about 1/4 inch. I could push the control arm forward to get the bolts in the holes but that seems to put an undesirable torque on the new urethane control arm bushings. Is that the way it is supposed to be ? One other question while I'm at it, when I put the new ball joint, also from Motorsport,in the holes do not line up with the control arm holes, off by about .050" but enough so that I can't get the bolts in. The old ball joint lined up fine. Should I take off a little material from the ball joint or from the control arm , any thoughts ? Thanks, Mike