justinyee

Just a thought, but you could also plug it up with something else: rubber plug, or a screw with a flat rounded top. Obviously these options aren't for the purist :] good luck! BTW, nice looking ride! And photographically speaking, the noise is perfect.

awesome write up on bringing the beast from CA to yer home! can't wait to see it transform!

welcome to the site Hagdog! this has definitely been a great resource for my 280z and i'm sure you'll see it and it's members are just as invaluable!

Just a follow up, i've managed to go through 3 tank refills and nearly two weeks with out a starting stall after replacing the fuel filter. I'll continue to monitor and post results. If anything, my next step will be to clean the gas tank.

gold man, great read in the morning. truly what goes around, comes around. haven't heard anything on this at all, but really excited to learn about it! thanks

Kats - love that site and reading up on all the wonderful history. I've found all the pics to be super handy in comparing parts and their variances too! Great work

love the pics! of course the z's are great, but the 510s are nice too!

Hope this isn't too old of a thread to post some info... I had rusted scuff plates too, with the vinyl peeling off - so i decided to save / refurbish them instead of just buying new ones. I used a heat gun to take off the old vinyl. Trick is to find that temp that's not too hot that it melts the vinyl, but enough to soften the old glue. And it works like a charm. (helps to have another person help out on this) Sanded them down, sprayed with primer rust inhibitor, and nstead of re-wrapping the scuff plates in vinyl, i sprayed it with truck bed liner for a rugged look. I posted a video on my blog if it helps: http://dailydatsun.com/2011/11/27/scuff-and-rubber/ Edit: haha don't know how i missed it, but just like ZCurves said!

Lady24d, have you seen this thread? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37846-76-280z-starts-but-dies-after-30-seconds Baki280z had solved their issue with the Air Flow Meter (AFM). It's a good read. Sounds more like my issue, so i'm going to start my tests there and i'll note back my results.

Just want to say that i've been having the same issue inconsistently. I haven't deep dived into finding out the solution, but what temporarily gets me back on the road is simply restarting a several times. The car would cruise just fine, then all of a sudden pressing the accelerator will make the car hesitate, rpms drop, and eventually stall. I'd sit by side of the road restarting, engine idles, and rpms slowly drop and engine stalls. Just today i just let the engine idle, and it dropped to 500rpms, but didn't stall out. I let it run there for a couple of mins. then turned it off, and restarted. This next restart fired up to 1000rpms, and all was fine. Just wanted to note my experience, and say i'll also be following the thread.

I may have to replace the Oil Pressure Sending Unit anyways... my 280z is an early model (4/77) and has the bullet type connector, but MSA is saying it should have the spade connector if 3/77 and newer. Bruce: Thanks for the insight, but the plugs weren't out of the ordinary for a 35 year old car - honestly i probably could've kept running with the original plugs if i really wanted to. So i realize this is probably a bit of extra information on my part. 5thhorsemann: already have a new oil filter on it, but i'll look at that too.

Thanks FW - to clarify: Prior to 100 miles, i did an oil change. So it's got fresh oil, and plenty of it. I mentioned the old oil condition to confirm that i don't think there's anything wrong w/ the engine block that might account for pressure drop. Spark plugs have also been replaced. Old ones were grimy, but looked normal - nothing to indicate anything bad from there. Found the Oil Pressure Sender you're talking about! thanks - it confirms it's the same as what other manuals call the Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor, or Oil Pressure Switch. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/17-8003 I'll check pressure w/ a mechanical gauge and move from there. I'll consider 10w40 as well, thanks.

Thanks LeonV - yes, oil level shows as just below the end of the hash area @ "H" - so good to go there. I'll also mention: 1) it doesn't drop a drip of oil 2) old oil that came out was black, but clean (no coolant or gas in there).

Specs: 1977 Datsun 280z, 4/77 L28 Engine, everything original / stock Oil change 100 miles ago - 4 qts of 10w30, new oil filter Issue: For a few days now, i'm noticing that the Oil Pressure gauge shows the oil pressure dropping from ~40 psi down to ~5 psi over the course of 15mins of variable speed /rpm driving. Engine is sounding less smooth, running a touch rougher at idle. After reading previous threads, it looks like there's a few things i need to check first: 1) Check oil w/ a mechanical pressure gauge 2a) If mechanical gauge matches readings with stock electrical Oil Pressure gauge, then look at Oil Pressure Relief Valve to see if it's functioning. 2b) If mech gauge doesn't match electrical gauge, replace Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor Questions: 1) How / where do i connect a mechanical gauge to the engine? from same port as the Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor? 2) I'm noticing a lot of people mentioning a Oil Pressure Sending Unit often fails, but I don't see that part in the Service Manual - or haven't found a picture of one. What are they referring to? Isolation: 1) Engine does not cut out when Oil Pressure gauge shows what should be 0 psi Thanks in advance!

Thanks guys - the encouragement is appreciated! yeah, i'll have to look more at that rear hatch rust; and thanks for the tip on the service manual grant!

Horray - dream achieved! I got a Z-car!! '77 280z w/ 80k miles, tucked away under a tree, old-lady driven - i've been in it for a whole 70 miles and every mile has been a blast. Hope to be a contributing member here at Classic Zcar Club! Can't wait till MSA's Back to the Street event! Keeping a blog on its restoration: www.dailydatsun.com See you around!