dltalfa

FYI,...I replaced my fuel sending unit and did NOT have to remove or lower the gas tank. I just put a jack under the tank for support,...I removed the rear wheel,.....removed one tank strap, (to provide better access),..and then just replaced the unit. It was so simple,...took less than an hour total.

I have gone to the web and saved several pictures of white casr with the black stripe. I have looked at them over and over. While I like the look myself,...I'm trying to verify the thoughts of other Z owners. Let's face it,...every molested Z we see on eBay was done by someone who "thought it look good to them". We all wish they had gotten other peoples opinion before they made those mods. I understand that it should be done however I like,...but as I posted earlier, I know that I will be selling it some day and I dont want to do anything to minimize the resale value.

Yea,...but I guess you could say I was polling the public opinion.

I'd like everyone's opinion. I have a white 1972 240z. It has slotted mags and black interior. I orderd the black "240Z" side stipes almost a year ago, (right after I had it painted). I keep planning on installing them,...but everytime I plan to start,..I look at the car in plain form and back out. At other times, I feel the car looks too bland and I think the stripe would "jazz" it up a little. I look at the gallery and see several of the Z's with the stripe and I really like it. I may end up selling it in another year or two,..so i should factor sale-ability into the equation too. I'd like to hear everyone's opinion. Should I install the stripe or not.

I plan on installing a new fuel sending unit in my 1972 240z tomorrow. Do I have to drop the fual tank to perform this installation or can it be done with the tank still in the car?

I have a new grill guard, (the bar that connects to the top of the two front bumper overriders). I can't figure out how to install it. It has two bolt holes where it bolts to the over riders. But I can't tell if I am supposed to drill holes through the rubber strips and install it OVER the rubber,....of if I am supposed to trim the rubber strip off the top section and bolt the bar dircetly to the chrome. Has anyone had experence with this installation?

This is a common thing among classic cars. The Tri-Five Chevy's are another perfect example. The 1955 Chevy brings very big money,..it was the first in it's line. It was cutting edge for the time with beautiful new styling. The 1956 came out with the exact same body / sheet metal,..but the chrome and trim was tweek. The 1957 came out still sharing a lot of the same sheet metal and tooling,...but was tweeked a lot more. Today,..while all three are high dollar and valuable cars,...the middle year, (1956), has a much less following and brings less money.

This auction is for a set of FRONT rubbers. I am looking for the REAR rubber strips. Thanks though.

OK,..I have found the problem. My 1972 has 1973 guards on it. Apparently, the 70-72 had he 4 hole configuration anf the 73 had the 3 hole. Not sure how 73 guards ended up on my 72, (with build date of 02/72). Now I just need to find some 73 rubber strips.

I had considered that,..but the layout is completely different,..it's not just one extra hole. The 4 bolt configuration would mean I would have to drill 3 new holes,..on being right in the middle of the mounting stud. It can't be done. I either need two new 3 bolt rubbers or two new 4 bolt hole guards. I assume the rubber will be much less expensive as the guards seem to be bringing over $130.00 each. Cliff,..here is a cylinder head shop I had used several years ago with good sccess. Cylinder Head Service 4508 Veterans Memorial Dr, Fairfield, AL 35064 (205) 781-9800

Thanks,..but it doesn't indicate if this is the 3 or 4 bolt rubber strip. I have purchased two sets of new rubber strips,..but they both came with the 4 bolt /nut configuration. I need the 3 bolt configuration. When you replaced yours, was yours 3 or 4 nut? What year is your Z?

My car has a build date of 02/72. Of course, over 41 years, the bumper and /or guards could have been changed out. Does anyone know of a source to buy the 3 bolt / nut rubber strips?

OK,..here's my deal. I am replacing the bumpers on my 1972 240z. I have pieced together all the parts from various places,...mostly eBay. I bought a set or original re-chromed bumpers almost a year ago. I purchased NOS bumper guard rubber from a different seller. As I was installng, I ran into a snag. My original rear bumper guards (and my new ones), have the rubber strip that is held on with 3 nuts. I purchased a set off eBay but they have 4 nuts and it looks like the holes are in different locations. They were described as correct for a 240z,..but they are different than my chrome guards. I located another set on the internet,..but the description says they have 4 nuts too. What am I missing? Did my orignal bumper, (and the new one), have the wrong guards? Or have I just run into two different replacemnet sets that are both incorrect? Most importantly,..where can I get the correct rubber strips with the 3 attachment nuts for my guards?

Do you have any interior parts,.....specifically door panels and diamond vinyl?

If your frame has the 4 screws on the leading edge, (under your current black stuf,...then it came with the full length molding. If it is the 2 screw version, then it came with just the smal tabs. I cleaned my up really well while I was polishing teh stainless.

Good point!!

Hey,...I just went through this. The pre 1973 models only had a small rubber tab at the very top and another at very bottom of the window edge. These seem to be out of production now though. I agree that it doesn't look like Datsun would have left that edge bare,..but they did. Once it's installed and the door opening molding is installed it doesn't lok as bare. The mid 1973 through 1978, (last 280z), had a full length seal. That is the one you referenced from Black Dragon. The full length seal is designed to attach by 4 screws that are in the window frame. Te earlier cars didn't have these 4 screws,..only 2 at the very top. Everyone will say they enterchange. However, you will have to glue the long strip on instead of screws as intended. Now,..I replaced mine with the newer long version. It looks great and went on easily. However,..I have a very tight fit between the door frame and window now. It's almost too much. I'm hoping it will ease up after it's been on there a while.

Thats what I said in my response,... all "Factory steel wheels" use the same lug nuts,..240z, 260z and 280z. He had asked if the nuts for a 260z would fit on a 240z. That is still true even with alloy wheels,...the lugs enterchange between all 1st generation Z cars.

Yes, all the "standard" lug nuts for the "factory steel wheels" are the same for ALL 240z, 260z and 280z.

First, thanks to everyone who pointed me to David at Courtesy Nissan for my new quarter window leading edge molding. They had them in stock, I got a good price and they arrived promptly. However, I can't tell how to attach the molding to my window frame. My car is a 1972 240z. The new molding has a metal strip with rubber attached. It has holes along the edge,...but my window frame doesn't. How do these moldings attach? Do you just glue them on with the black molding adhesive?

No one????? Any ideas????

OK,...I received my quarter window moldings today, (Thanks David @ Courtesy). Now,...how do these attach to the window frame? The molding appears to have screw holes in them,...but there are no attachment screws or holes on the window frame itself. The molding has a metal strip with the back covered in rubber. Does it glue on? any ideas?????

Thanks Guys,...I ordered them from Courtesy today.

Absolutly Sunday evening,... 8:00 pm. This gives weekend car guys a perfect time to bid. Not a big TV night and most car guys have had a chance to see cars all weekend long. I've sold SEVERAL cars on eBay,..and ended them ALL on Sunday night.

in this diagram, it looks like I need the part listed as #5. Is this not right?