dltalfa

I cant find the leading edge quarter window molding for my 240z. This is the rubber molding that covers the front lip,..where the quarter window meets the door frame. Does anyone know where I can find this molding?

I need a new, (or very good used), set of red door panels. WHERE CAN I FIND THEM? I have seen a few sets on eBay in other colors,..but not in red and they are asking $700 to $800 for them. Why are they so high?? Where can I get a set in red??

I just finished painting my 240z and I'm ready to start the reconstruction. I will be replacing all the rubber weatherstrip / molding seals on the car. I was looking at the complete kit offered by Black Dragon,...but I have read a few threads on here that indicate that some of these moldings may not fit corretly. Can anyone elabortae? If these moldings are not of good quality,...does anyone else offer a complete set that fits correctly? I need the windshield rubber, front and rear. The door seals, the under hood seal, rear hatch rubber seals,...everything. Any suggestions?

I removed the hood and headlight buckets my 240 to paint. Everything fit well and the gaps looked perfect pror to dissasembly. However, now I can't get them to align on reassembly. The hood fits fine along the fender line but it sits too high at the headlight buckets. I can't seem to get it to adjust out. Any ideas????

I am thinking abut replacing the rear quarter window molding on my 240z. How difficult is the removal and replacemnet of the window,...and the rubber molding? Also,...can anyone give me the easiest removal instructions?

How do you remove the outer stainless steel door / window trim? This is the chrome (SS), trim that runs along the top of the door right at the edge of the window opening. I can't find anything on it in the FSM nor the Haynes manual. I can't find any screws. I assume it prys off,...but I wanted to ask before I tear it up trying to remove it incorrectly.

Another thought,..are you sure you have it timed right? Being out of time might prevent the valves being completely closed thus you could never adjust the lash.

To me it is just common sense. If you install it and get a buckle or a bulge over the glove box, it could hindder opening. However, if you install it without any contortion you will be fine. It comes with glue that holds it down. I suggest test fitting it a couple of times. It's best to do it out in the sun, or at least in a heated garage. You will need something heavy to place on the dash to hold it flat until the glue dries. Again,...just take your time and follow the directions and you will be fine. Most of it is common sense.

I have installed several of these over the years. They are hard formed,..but flexible enough to manouver around while installing. If installed correctly, they will not be a hinder for the glove box door nor the speedo and tach. You can quickly slap it on or you can take your time and massage it around and get a good fit. While very simple and self explanitory,...you still need to follow the directions.

THANKS GUYS!!! I ended up removing the easiest hose, (which wasn't all that easy),..and then I removed the control valve as suggested and pulled the other hose out thorugh the interior cabin,..then removed it from the valve. It took me much longer than I had expected,..but I now have all new braided hoses on my car. It was worth it once I saw the finished product.

Your post says you have new terminals, new cables, etc. However, in your pictures the terminals and cables do not look new at all. Are you sure you replaced them?

I have just finished repainting under the hood of my 240. I painted over the 3 nuts on top of the strut towers. I have purchased new nuts to replace them. My question is; can I simply remove the old nuts and replace them, (assuming I do not move the car),..or will that throw something out of wack?? Also,...the best I can find on line,...the torque for these nuts should be 18 to 25 foot lbs. Does that sound correct?

I am about to replace my heater hoses on my 240z. My question is; is there a simplier way to do this job. I can just barely get my hands in there to reach one of the hoses. I'm afraid that after I finally get them off, (inside the cabin),...I may never get the new one's installed and the clamps tightened. I would like to hear how some of you guys handled this job.

Thanks guys, My 72 has the small "hood" shroud like the one shown. It does not have the belly pan though. Is the belly pan really needed for everyday driving? DT

I have a completely orignal 1972 240z that I am trying to get back on the road, (over all freshen up under way). It does not have a fan shroud. I have seen several of you guys that DO have fan shrouds. Did my car come with one and possibly lost it somewhere along the way? Do I need one? Thanks in advance, Danny

Because not only did they have to add the big bumpers to meet regulations, they also had to "beef-up" the door anti-intrusion beams, enhance the collapsable steering column and more. All these changes made a big weight impact on the Z and negatively effceted the net horsepower, (to the wheels). So, to maintain a similar useable horsepower, they rolled out the larger displacement 280, along with the fuel injection. Other imported sportscars, (Like the MG and Triumph), tried to meet regulations but did nothing to increase thier horsepower. In the poor old MGB's case, they went from a base hp of almost 100 in 1973,...down to just over 60bhp after the federal regulations.

Hey,...I got them from The Z-Connection, (on eBay). They are very cheap.. I assume your avitar picture is your car. My Z is white too.

I just finished painting my engine compartment. I am ready to re-install componets and I have all new rubber grommets for the firewall. My question is; the heater hose grommets are bellowed on one side. Does that bellowed section go out, toward the engine compartment, or does it go inward, toward the interior of the car? Any help would be appreciated, DT

I just received my new RT mount today and I hope to install it tomorrow. Kind of a dumb question,...and I may see once I crawl under the car,...but, which direction does this mount install? There is a notch on one side of the top. Does that go toward the right or left? Also,..there is a lip on only one side of the top flat portion,...does that lip go toward the front or the rear?

I think I'm thinking of Nissan Daytona Blue.

I'm considering painting my 72 240Z a bright blue color, similar to a Viper Blue,...or the blue on the new Toyota FJ's. Has anyone done this,...and if so,..do you have pictures? I need to actually see one of our Z's painted this color before I do it.

This is hard to imagine. First, Datsun put aprox. 5 miles on every 240Z before it left the plant, (in road tests miles on their test track). Then, the car was driven onto a truck which carried to the dock. It was then driven off the truck and onto the boat. Once shipped to the US, it was driven off the boat and onto another truck to be delivered to the dealership. It was then driven off the truck and around to the dealership service department. Once at a dealership, they were moved around and often test driven. Once it was purchased someone drove it home. With all that driving, every Z car should have had at least 15 to 20 miles. That means it must have never been driven any after it was purchased. That just seems hard to believe.

I have a rear hatch enroute to me now via Greyhound. Coming from Washington State to Alabama. I'm holding my breathe. I'll let everyone know the outcome!!

I just finished replacing both outer tie rod / track rod ends and rack and pinion boots. I bought all teh parts from Black Dragon. My concern is the quality of the tie rod ends. The ends do not have grease zerks nor a plug to put one in. Even more concerning,..the threaded part of the end does not have a hole for the cotter pin. They come with a Ny-lock nut instead of a castle nut with pin. Has anyone had any experienmce with these parts?

More importantly,..are you going to sell the slotted mags and tires that are on it now? If so,..what will you take for them?